1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections
View Poll Results: Is 200 hp possible with bolt on parts or will I have to get expensive engine porting?
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My First First Gen

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Old Nov 24, 2001 | 07:45 PM
  #1  
Matthew Torian's Avatar
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My First First Gen

I am new to cars but my '84 rx-7 is my favorite hobbie. I want to lower my 1/4 mile time as much as possible. I am also a broke student. Does anyone have any suggetions on what mods would be reletively cheap but very effective. Also I plan on only racing this car (per say) what can I remove from the motor compartment and emmisions department and still have a dependable driver.
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Old Nov 24, 2001 | 08:43 PM
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Okay, am I missing something here? What is the poll all about?
And do you have a 12A or 13B engine? I think 200 hp is about the uppper limit of the GSL-SE engine, without internal work. The standard 12A in the non-SE cars is only good for about 150 flywheel hp.
Either way you will want exhaust. and intake. And remove all the power accessorries you don't have to have, which is alot. I don't know much more to tell you untill you can please clear up this confusing post for me
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 09:03 AM
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Ya the poll...mmm... I didnt have a clue what I was doing it was an accident. I have a '84 12A nothing special from the factory. The only mod I have done so far has been crossed drilled rotors and performance pads. Looking at getting a header from the wife for christmas...removing cat. converter and flow master muffler. To show my auto inexperence I have to ask whats a presilencer and do I need one with a muffle. With a header can I remove the afterburner.
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 09:18 AM
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A Yaw "Super Street" carb and manifold, free flowing exhaust, and supporting hardware (ditch your oil cooler and radiator for a '79-82 setup, get an electric fan, upgraded fuel pump, etc.) should get you around 150 or so HP and lots torque. This should be low 15's-high 14's depending on the driver and how much the car weighs.

More likely than not your dowel O-rings are leaking, causing oil to puddle up on the top of the engine... this is just a $90 gasket hit to repair but it requires disassembly of the engine. Might as well do a street port on it while it's apart. (It's what I did, my '84 engine was hosing oil out the top) Then you'll see 180 or so HP, maybe even 200 depending on how free-flowing your exhaust is.

Over 200 generally means you'll have to go bridge ported, which has its upsides and downsides. (Downsides: very rough idle, poor low RPM/low throttle-opening power/mileage, requires a noisy exhaust, requires special, wear-prone apex seals to make the best power. Upsides: very rough idle, insane top-end pull, very efficient at high throttle opening/high RPM) There's a local dude with a bridge port engine in an RX-3, he runs a RB Holley 650, I've seen him run low 13's off the bottle and low 12's on the bottle, but it's REALLY loud. I am not exaggerating on the loudness part. Pro Mod cars are kinda painful to hear but this RX-3 was LOUDER THAN THAT. "Rotaries are the most efficient way to convert fuel into noise"!!!!
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 10:05 AM
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200 hp? Very doubtful unless you have big $$$. With enough money you can do just about anything.
I agree, get a Yaw carb $450.00 approx. by the time you are done. Header, and yes you need a presilencer (it is the same look and function as a handgun silencer), and free flow muffler. You will take off all of the stock exhaust from the engine back. This is a good thing. You need to streetport the engine to get really good results, or bridge port if you want more. Peripheral port if you are racing. But this requires the teardown of the engine $$$$$$$$. I have a Yaw carb and the exhaust, but I will wait until I need a rebuild before I do the porting.
If I were you, I would do a little at a time starting with the exhaust and just enjoy the car as you go. There are a number of suspension mods you can do also, which will help. The thing to remember about these cars, they are made to handle and go fast in the twisties, not necessarily in a straight line.
have fun,
hanman
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 11:15 AM
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Originally posted by hanman
Header, and yes you need a presilencer (it is the same look and function as a handgun silencer), and free flow muffler.
Bah. You only "need" the presilencer to mate the header to the rest of the existing system. The presilencer makes it even quieter than stock IMO, and changes the tone drastically. (makes it really soft-sounding)

- PJ (make it sound like a rotary, not some luxo-yacht)
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 11:38 PM
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Originally posted by peejay


Bah. You only "need" the presilencer to mate the header to the rest of the existing system. The presilencer makes it even quieter than stock IMO, and changes the tone drastically. (makes it really soft-sounding)

- PJ (make it sound like a rotary, not some luxo-yacht)
ive got the rb street port exhaust with presilencers and all and mines not so quiet. ha when i took it for inspection yesterday they thought it had an exhaust leak at first it was funny, cept that my electric fan switch broke on the way over, so it overheated a little while they sat there checkin it out doh
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Old Nov 26, 2001 | 11:36 AM
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Originally posted by gamble302


ive got the rb street port exhaust with presilencers and all and mines not so quiet. ha when i took it for inspection yesterday they thought it had an exhaust leak at first it was funny, cept that my electric fan switch broke on the way over, so it overheated a little while they sat there checkin it out doh
OUCH! that has to be bad!

Did ya hurt it?

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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 08:59 PM
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Thanks I joined this club 3 days ago and have learned more about my pride and joy '84 in that time then the months I've spent reading the darn shop manuals. Thanks to everyone. My only question is if I street port (which seems to be exactly what I am looking for) What does that cost on average? Does anyone know who does that in south west michigan. My biggist dilema is that right now I need the car as a daily driver.
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