i usually leave it at 50/50, if i add more water than coolant my engine heats up more than it usually does, it'll go up about half way or close to "HOT" if it's got more water than coolant actually.

 

Jeez....lol

Sub-zero start assist. Located under windshield washer resevoir passenger side firewall. Calls for 90/10. Only used below 0. (or whatever freezing is in America)

Coolant resevoir located behind passenger side headlight pretty much against radiator. Thats the overflow.

Pretty sure thats it. And the rad i guess if you count that?

 

ok well i live in the desert and it doesnt get below 0 the most it drops here is 25 and then 45 to 50 during the day in winter, however I started this thread for the fact the I notied my car was overheating with the A/C on, I removed all a/c components and my car stays alot cooler now. I did put 50/50 in the sub zero reserve so is that ok??? and the overflow I put 50/50 so I should be ok now ( I HOPE)

 

The sub zero reserve tank is stupid. I just took mine out the other day. It didn't even connect to anything. Just a hose going nowhere. I may look for a hole to cap, but I'm in no hurry.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=subzero

 

The sub zero "starting system" is not a part of your cooling system. It doesn't connect to the cooling system in any way. It is confusing because it uses anti freeze like the cooling system.

 

Ok ive posted here about cooling, I guess the car has new issues with cooling of course, Starts here, 6:00pm 100 out side cars temp rises to 1/4 and doesnt move until I start climbing mountain terrian, now whats wierd is at 4:00am in the cooler morning, the cars temp will rise to half way, so..... wtf... im almost postive, this might be a Ground and with having my head lights on, I know it might sound wierd but jezz. what else could be???????????

 

My past experiences:

Had a 79 with a weird gauge cluster. During the day time, it read right. At night though, it would rise slowly like it normally would to operating temperature, but not stop rising, leading me into the "H" zone. Obviously I would turn the car off, wait for it to coo down a bit, and continue on. It took me a little over 2 hours to drive 12 miles.

Swapped the cluster, never had the problem again. Turns out it was a faulty cluster and I was never overheating.

Later, with my 82, Put a OEM thermostat in, no grease or lube or whatever else people say to use. Just thermostat and gasket. Tightened it down, and never rises over 1/3 mark (thats 95* weather, plus driving on a track),

I run a ford taurus E-fan on the low setting. Pulls more CFM than the stock fan, simply because I could not feel the air flowing under the car with the clutch fan, but I can with the stock fan. Plus, keeps it cooler faster.

 

ok today I just installed a new water pump, after removing the STOCK water pump yes the water pump was never changed in the past 27 or 28 years the car has been around, anyway it appears to have been leaking, besides from that, YES I installed an autozone duralast and the reason is because I have a chevy s10 tahoe/blazer and I installed a duralast water pump over a year ago and its never failed, infact its kept my truck cooler then normal temp, so in the long run I havent tested my car driving the 140 miles x 4 days a week(work), so Ill update you guys when I take my first trip, if no result, Im buying a new rad next week anyways and replaceing my oil cooler because there is damage to the cooler looks like it got bashed up.

 

"ok today I just installed a new water pump, after removing the STOCK water pump yes the water pump was never changed in the past 27 or 28 years the car has been around,..."

How do you know that?

"... anyway it appears to have been leaking,"

From the weephole?

" besides from that, YES I installed an autozone duralast and the reason is because I have a chevy s10 tahoe/blazer and I installed a duralast water pump over a year ago and its never failed,..."

Does that Chevy have a rotary by chance?

Don't overtighten the v-belt or that new waterpump will be worn out within 5 months.

You can expect the radiator to be leaking at about 100k miles. Re-solder or replace.

 

"How do you know that?"
The car only had one owner, and I can identify through part number also the vehicle only has 136k, so im not postive but i am taking a wild guess that none the external engine parts have not been replaced.

"From the weephole?"
Yes, the weehole

"Does that Chevy have a rotary by chance?"
lol, nope not that I know of, however duralast makes Preium parts, I can see someone drilling me for buying a valuecraft or an autolite product but Ive never had issues with a duralast water pump.

"Don't overtighten the v-belt or that new waterpump will be worn out within 5 months."
I do believe I overtightened the belts, this ill fix when I get home, the raditor is not leaking yet lol however, the oil cooler is damage at the bottom could this be a cause of overheating problems???

I had this thoery that when I turn my headlights on the temp gauge rises, its true, I tested it today, I drove without my headlights on and it stopped at 1/4 after about 6 mins I turned my lights on and what do you know, the temp gauge rised to half way, I turned the lights off and it went down. WIERD $HIT.
thanks bliffle for the help, you reminded me I need to losen my belts.