My Car Idles BAD!!!Video included
06-16-05, 12:43 AM
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My Car Idles BAD!!!Video included
OK so i just put my stock injectors (GSL-SE ) primaries back in .....Check all the wiring / grounds and everything looks Koo! As U can see or hear It idles really bad/(sorry about the bad quality) it goes all the way down and up to like 800rpm's.....I have a HKS injector controller 4 the secondarys but those only start spraying when i hit over6 PSI
I checked timing/ vacuum lines and i cant find ****!!!.....I removed my rats nest and there's a vaccum switch on the passenger side corner (by the firewall ) i didnt connect a vac line to it/ Do u guys think thats a problem? also when im on the freeway i see the boost gauge going crazy from 3'ish to whatever i'm bossting 5 or so ......It seems to happen on bumpy roads .....also i get like 8mpg
could It be a Vac leak?
I replaced my coils(put the second gens in leading and checked compression) DAMMIIIIIIT I'm About to Give up and just trade my friend This car 4 a 90 GXL
http://oregonstate.edu/~abelk/images...SE/Picture.mpg
Thanks GSL-SE 4 the video hosting
I checked timing/ vacuum lines and i cant find ****!!!.....I removed my rats nest and there's a vaccum switch on the passenger side corner (by the firewall ) i didnt connect a vac line to it/ Do u guys think thats a problem? also when im on the freeway i see the boost gauge going crazy from 3'ish to whatever i'm bossting 5 or so ......It seems to happen on bumpy roads .....also i get like 8mpg
could It be a Vac leak?I replaced my coils(put the second gens in leading and checked compression) DAMMIIIIIIT I'm About to Give up and just trade my friend This car 4 a 90 GXL
http://oregonstate.edu/~abelk/images...SE/Picture.mpg
Thanks GSL-SE 4 the video hosting
06-16-05, 12:49 AM
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It sounding like...
Check the area around the injectors and make sure they are getting enough fuel. If not it sounds like it builds up for a sec then dies. If you have a vaccum leak that was constant then you would idle really high instead of low. If there was a valve connected to the hose then it sounds like it might be opening and closeing. When all else fails touch everything when its running.
Check the area around the injectors and make sure they are getting enough fuel. If not it sounds like it builds up for a sec then dies. If you have a vaccum leak that was constant then you would idle really high instead of low. If there was a valve connected to the hose then it sounds like it might be opening and closeing. When all else fails touch everything when its running.
06-16-05, 12:50 AM
#3
When you removed the rats nest, there should have been two black wires with ring terminals on them (bolted to the solenoid rack). Did you disconnect these wires? They are the grounds for the ECU. A lot of times after a rebuild or doing vacuum line work people forget to reconnect these.
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
06-16-05, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
When you removed the rats nest, there should have been two black wires with ring terminals on them (bolted to the solenoid rack). Did you disconnect these wires? They are the grounds for the ECU. A lot of times after a rebuild or doing vacuum line work people forget to reconnect these.
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
06-16-05, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Mine actually does that too, don't feel bad, after it's warmed up it goes away.
06-16-05, 01:27 AM
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this might sound dumb but i had a corolla that was going nuts like that (stock though)
and it turned out to be a tear in the intake after the AFM wich would open with engine tourque (witch would kill engine) then close and do it all over
i doubt this is it but it doesnt hurt to look (doesnt look like your going lean either)
and it turned out to be a tear in the intake after the AFM wich would open with engine tourque (witch would kill engine) then close and do it all over
i doubt this is it but it doesnt hurt to look (doesnt look like your going lean either)
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06-16-05, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by shadylurker
this might sound dumb but i had a corolla that was going nuts like that (stock though)
and it turned out to be a tear in the intake after the AFM wich would open with engine tourque (witch would kill engine) then close and do it all over
i doubt this is it but it doesnt hurt to look (doesnt look like your going lean either)
and it turned out to be a tear in the intake after the AFM wich would open with engine tourque (witch would kill engine) then close and do it all over
i doubt this is it but it doesnt hurt to look (doesnt look like your going lean either)
Thanks 4 the input, i'll check the intake piping
06-16-05, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
When you removed the rats nest, there should have been two black wires with ring terminals on them (bolted to the solenoid rack). Did you disconnect these wires? They are the grounds for the ECU. A lot of times after a rebuild or doing vacuum line work people forget to reconnect these.
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
As I mentioned in the pm, what is the battery voltage (hard to tell from the vid)? The warning lights shouldn't come on like that unless it almost completely stalled. Trying to explore all options here.
Kent
the lights come on B/C the idle is so shitty that the car allmost stalls or stalls (sometimes)
06-16-05, 03:02 AM
#10
I actually had a very similar problem and I solved it this week. First off how old is the Distributor cap and the rotor?
Inspect the distributor cap inside.....
Next pull the plugs and if they are dirty clean them up.
On my car I just finished replacing the distributor because the pick-up coils were worn down. Just take a peek to see, pull the cap/rotor/dust cover and you'll see two pairs of wires and they lead to the contacts that I'm talking about. They should be about 2mm thick. Mine had worn down flush.
*note all 81-85 distributors are interchangable 12a or 13b doesn't matter.
You could get a Vacuum guage to check vacuum at idle....
-Once I forgot about the vacuum nipple at the bottom of the intake manifold right beside the Air temp sensor.
-At that valve on the driverside of the manifold had a nipple pointing down.
-There is one under the TB which I plugged cause of the TB mod.
-4 on the radiator side and 2 on the firewall side.
Hope any of this helps....
Inspect the distributor cap inside.....
Next pull the plugs and if they are dirty clean them up.
On my car I just finished replacing the distributor because the pick-up coils were worn down. Just take a peek to see, pull the cap/rotor/dust cover and you'll see two pairs of wires and they lead to the contacts that I'm talking about. They should be about 2mm thick. Mine had worn down flush.
*note all 81-85 distributors are interchangable 12a or 13b doesn't matter.
You could get a Vacuum guage to check vacuum at idle....
-Once I forgot about the vacuum nipple at the bottom of the intake manifold right beside the Air temp sensor.
-At that valve on the driverside of the manifold had a nipple pointing down.
-There is one under the TB which I plugged cause of the TB mod.
-4 on the radiator side and 2 on the firewall side.
Hope any of this helps....
06-16-05, 12:02 PM
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Possibly not, I know on the SE's they have secondary butterflies in the Throttle Body that open and close for idling with a vacuum assisted actuator on the side of it (you can actually move the lever up and down and see it open and close them).
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