Hey guys! yea i just ran a compression test on my own with the tools i got from school. So i just ran it on both housings, Both cheacked out at 60 Psi... Lead and Trail. Not sure if i had to check Both lead and trail on both housings but i did any way

So yea i need help in knowing what should the compression come out to be.

My car is a 1985 rx7. 12A

Any one who knows plez tell me. Thank you for reading!

 

i'm not an expert..but im think they are suppose to be around 100

 

Ohh.. yea my teacher told me it shoul dbe around 120.. but you know this is a small engine so i was thinking it should be around 90 to 100.

But thank you. I'm going to go and ask around some more and read.

Thank you again...

Any one eles who has any thoughs i would love to read them.

 

I think I read somewhere that 90 psi is the minimum that you should have.

 

Test it when it is warmed up. Also the porting will affect the compression numbers.

 

Come on guys, quit guessing for post count.

Compression testing.

Engine warm
Throttle plates fully open
240-250 rpm cranking speed.
Below 85psi or more than a 21 psi difference indicates a rebuild.
Porting does not affect test

85 FSM, Section 1, pp. 10-12 cover compression testing

Mr D, redo you test per the FSM.
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I have a question that relates to this so its not really a jack

Pulled my engine and i know that with piston engines plugs in it is rediculously hard to turn the (crank maybe) and you can feel crazy compression.

With my 12a, i can turn very easily my hand. Both rotors give a pff sound of about equal strength but i cant do a compression test since its not in the car. Is it supposed to be really easy to turn (plugs still in)

 

Yes, it's much easier to turn a rotary over with the plugs in than it is a piston engine. If you bolt the tranny and starter back on, you can still do a compression test with the engine out of the car. Use a battery and jumper cables for power.