more power
07-23-03, 10:40 AM
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more power
i bought an 85 Rx7, 5 speed witha 12a the other day for 600 dollars, and it dont smoke, i really stole the thing, lol.
but any ways its fast, but what can i do to make it faster, i was looking at the raceing beat high performance exuast, and i like it but i was wondering what your opinions are. i am new to the rx7, always respected them casue i knew what they were capable off,
so anyhelp would not go unnoticed
robert
but any ways its fast, but what can i do to make it faster, i was looking at the raceing beat high performance exuast, and i like it but i was wondering what your opinions are. i am new to the rx7, always respected them casue i knew what they were capable off,
so anyhelp would not go unnoticed
robert
07-23-03, 10:47 AM
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Racing Beat is prolly the most trusted company by all of us here... Everyone here, including me, will try to MAKE you buy the RB performance exhaust kit. 
I have the Street Port Exhaust System and I love it. You will be hard pressed to find a higher quality exhaust system...
FS
I have the Street Port Exhaust System and I love it. You will be hard pressed to find a higher quality exhaust system...FS
07-23-03, 11:32 AM
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I took everyone else's recommendations and got the RB exhaust (header, presilencer and muffler), as well as the K&N filter. I love it, it sounds good and has more power. Definately worth the money. Here in California, it's actually not street legal, but I'll worry about that the next time I need to pass smog.
07-23-03, 11:49 AM
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Here sinsce no-one poested it here is the link...
http://www.racingbeat.com/
Its sorta like being a kid in a candy store...
This will get you started. These are the non invasive sorts of things to make your rotory rocket relly fly there are internal options like increasing the intake and exhaust port size (porting) Turboing, and the list goes on and on.
The more invasive methods of HP gain are not for the faint of heart.
Good luck
anthrax
http://www.racingbeat.com/
Its sorta like being a kid in a candy store...
This will get you started. These are the non invasive sorts of things to make your rotory rocket relly fly there are internal options like increasing the intake and exhaust port size (porting) Turboing, and the list goes on and on.
The more invasive methods of HP gain are not for the faint of heart.
Good luck
anthrax
07-23-03, 11:59 AM
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thanks guys, i figured everyone would push the RB kitt, tell you for 570 thats not bad, i had 450 sunk in to my borla header on my cherokee not including the 350 for the cat back, so its a hole lot cheaper,
i checked out NOPI but all they sell is pacesetter, and i know about pacesetter, from Buggs.
i put in my K&N yesterday morning, and to tell you the truth i have not ben impressed, yet. but my exaust is shot, and i do belive that i blew out my catty this morning. but the raceing beat with eliminate the catty, right?
once again thanks
Robert
i checked out NOPI but all they sell is pacesetter, and i know about pacesetter, from Buggs.
i put in my K&N yesterday morning, and to tell you the truth i have not ben impressed, yet. but my exaust is shot, and i do belive that i blew out my catty this morning. but the raceing beat with eliminate the catty, right?
once again thanks
Robert
07-23-03, 04:21 PM
#7
Well, not that Im not trying to push RB, because I am (I love my system), Im just letting you know that Mind Train makes a high quality exhaust as well. You can buy that through www.rx7store.net, as well as www.kickyride.com. But, I have no personal experiance with them, just heard nothing but good things. I bought the RB exhaust because of a few reasons. Mainly because it was so highly recommended, but also because I couldnt find enough information about Mind Train, and also couldnt track down a dealer until recently when www.kickyride.com was discovered, as well as www.rx7store.net starting to sell Mind Train. Oh well, Im happy with the RB exhaust .
~T.J.
PS - Before you ask, no, Mind Train doesnt have a website (weird eh?).
.~T.J.
PS - Before you ask, no, Mind Train doesnt have a website (weird eh?).
Trending Topics
07-23-03, 11:28 PM
#9
Alright... you need mods, and everyone's pimped the exhaust, so let's see what else we've got.
CARBS! You have a 12a, so you've got a carb (unless that 600$ car has undergone massively weird ****).
The favorites here seem to be Holley, Weber and Dellorto. Racing Beat has the best holley setup in town, a 465cfm specifically modified for rotaries, and now they've brought back their dellorto kits. Other than that, you're on your own to search (this forum and elsewhere) for aftermarket carbs.
Those are all aftermarket (duh), but if you just wanna squeeze a few horses out of the car w/o breaking the bank *too* much, or you wanna keep the car stock, you can send your stock carb to Sterling or Paul Yaw. You can find Sterling on this forum if you do a search, and Paul Yaw (who is almost the undisputed grand master of stock nikki carb modification until Sterling has a chance to prove himself) at http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/
Okay, so we've got you some stuff to search for on carbs, and you've got what you need for exhaust, what else can we give you? hmm... Suspension! "every straight ends in a corner" as they say, so...
The major coil makers that this forum sees are Racing Beat (wow, where have we seen that before?), Eibach, and Suspension Techniques. The Eibach ones can be had in a "progressive" spring, which changes the way it handles depending on the load it takes, ie: different handling going into and coming out of a corner. Debatably a good or bad thing, do a search. The Racing Beat ones are a little softer, but still great performance springs. The Suspension Techniques ones seem to be afterthoughts on this forum.
Shocks and struts. If you're swimming in money or you wanna do alot of autocross, you want Tokico Illuminas, which are 5-way adjustible (from pimpin' soft ride to "man I'm gonna need dental work" hard). Tokico also make a non-adjustible gas shock which gets pretty good reviews, but is very stiff compared to stock. KYB makes a good stock replacement, and from what people say on the forum, are pretty good performers too. The KYB GR-2s are gas, so offer much better performance than stock, and don't give you that internal-organ jarring ride either. Again, do a search (seeing a pattern? hehe). I'll mention Koni shock/struts, but I don't know much about them. From what I can tell, they're the middle ground between the KYB and the Tokico ones. KYB is the lowest you'll wanna go if you replace shocks, everything else sucks.
Along with Springs and Shocks/Struts, improvements to the suspension can be made through new swaybars (Racing Beat again, but there are some other manufacturers getting good reviews) and polyurethane bushings that don't have the give that rubber does.
For places to look when shopping for parts for your 7, the main places we all look are:
www.mazdatrix.com
www.racingbeat.com
and www.victoriabritish.com
The victoria british catalogue is free, and delivered seasonly, it's a VERY GOOD idea to sign up for one. Mazdatrix and Racing Beat are great places to look online for parts. For simple things, keep an eye out at the local NAPA Autoparts, since small things and stock replacements on some parts would be much cheaper local than ordering from afar.
Get ahold of your state's emissions requirements, since those can put a damper on some mods.
BRAKES! That's what I'm forgetting. The stock brakes aren't that bad if you keep 'em in good shape. If you're looking for upgrades, you're probably not gonna find anything until you go into more than double what you paid for the car! But the stock brakes are good, don't be shy to replace some parts. I just did the *whole freaking system* for like 1,000 Canuck Dollars. Hawk HP+ brake pads are probably the only improvement you'll find for a good price, and alof of people on here swear by them.
Aside from that, mods start going into the engine. Porting is a great way to get power out of a rotary, and get an engine rebuild at the same time. Get a compression test done on your engine (regular piston compression testors don't work on our engine, watch out).. The stock engine from the factory ran a 9.4:1 ratio, but you'll never see anywhere near that on an old 12a. When you "port" the engine, you're enlarging the intake and exhaust ports, effectively allowing more air/gas to get in, and more exhaust to get out. This leads to SIGNIFICANT improvements in hp. If you're keeping this car on the street, go for a "Street port". It enlarges the ports a bit, but not enough to make it so that your car needs to idle at 2000rpms and burn gas like a maniac. An engine rebuild on these cars always helps out, and a mild street port only costs an extra few hundred in a 2g rebuild job, so it's worth it while they're in there.
Other types of ports (purely for performance, you wouldn't wanna drive on them) range from Bridge port to JBridge (aka MonsteR) port, to peripheral ports.
For ignition, search up info on MSD. DLIDFIS (I believe that's how the acronym goes) is a direct-fire ignition system for your leading plugs, which gives you a bit more power and better fuel efficiency. Setting up an MSD box with 3 coils and new wires is a great upgrade to the craptacular distributor stock system. There are a few good tutorials on how to do it, with pics and everything.
Oh, and talking about tutorials, here's a link to Rx7Carl and Pratch's tutorial on how to remove that Rat's Nest of vacuum tubes on the top of your engine. If you're putting in the RB exhaust, you might as well get rid of all that emissions control mumbo-jumbo, as well as your Air Pump, which is sucking 3hp from your main pulleys anyway!:
http://maz_tutorials.totalimmage.com/
And one last thing. Note the fact that your car is *designed* to burn oil. I repeat: your car IS SUPPOSED to burn oil. There is an oil metering pump attached to the front of the block by the radiator, near the bottom of the block. This oil metering pump takes oil from your oilpan and injects it into the carb or intake manifold, to mix with the air/gas mixture. This lubricates the inside of your combustion chamber, which keeps the engine running. You'll wanna check that, as they're known to leak after time. The rebuild kits for the OMP (oil metering pump) are available here for $10:
http://www.loweperformance.com/
This is one of those things that will kill your engine if you're not careful. NEVER USE SYNTHETIC OIL. This is very important. Synthetic is designed not to burn, which as you can see is a problem in this system. Use regular old dinosaur oil, 10w30 is good. Check your oil often, and top-up when you need to. Change it often, your engine will thank you. Do searches on OMP, pre-mix and oil choice if you want to find out more.
That's all I can think of. Welcome to the club. I'm gonna save this post for sure :P
Jon
edit: a few things to do on your car before you get into performance improvements, to make sure it's running well:
FUEL FILTER! - $5 and 5 minutes, and it's probably never been done, it's worth it.
Plugs and Plug Wires, go NGK for plugs BR8EQ-14 are good for a stock port.
Prestone Coolant Flush is a good idea, along with some new 50/50, to keep the coolant system running nice and clean. Throw a thermostat and gasket in while you're in there.
Oil Change - 10w30
Tranny Oil check and Change (RedLine MT-90 is the best stuff you'll ever use)
Rear Differential Oil check and Change (75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil from a local NAPA or something.
Throw a can of Carb Cleaner through the carb too, it could probably use it.
CARBS! You have a 12a, so you've got a carb (unless that 600$ car has undergone massively weird ****).
The favorites here seem to be Holley, Weber and Dellorto. Racing Beat has the best holley setup in town, a 465cfm specifically modified for rotaries, and now they've brought back their dellorto kits. Other than that, you're on your own to search (this forum and elsewhere) for aftermarket carbs.
Those are all aftermarket (duh), but if you just wanna squeeze a few horses out of the car w/o breaking the bank *too* much, or you wanna keep the car stock, you can send your stock carb to Sterling or Paul Yaw. You can find Sterling on this forum if you do a search, and Paul Yaw (who is almost the undisputed grand master of stock nikki carb modification until Sterling has a chance to prove himself) at http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/
Okay, so we've got you some stuff to search for on carbs, and you've got what you need for exhaust, what else can we give you? hmm... Suspension! "every straight ends in a corner" as they say, so...
The major coil makers that this forum sees are Racing Beat (wow, where have we seen that before?), Eibach, and Suspension Techniques. The Eibach ones can be had in a "progressive" spring, which changes the way it handles depending on the load it takes, ie: different handling going into and coming out of a corner. Debatably a good or bad thing, do a search. The Racing Beat ones are a little softer, but still great performance springs. The Suspension Techniques ones seem to be afterthoughts on this forum.
Shocks and struts. If you're swimming in money or you wanna do alot of autocross, you want Tokico Illuminas, which are 5-way adjustible (from pimpin' soft ride to "man I'm gonna need dental work" hard). Tokico also make a non-adjustible gas shock which gets pretty good reviews, but is very stiff compared to stock. KYB makes a good stock replacement, and from what people say on the forum, are pretty good performers too. The KYB GR-2s are gas, so offer much better performance than stock, and don't give you that internal-organ jarring ride either. Again, do a search (seeing a pattern? hehe). I'll mention Koni shock/struts, but I don't know much about them. From what I can tell, they're the middle ground between the KYB and the Tokico ones. KYB is the lowest you'll wanna go if you replace shocks, everything else sucks.
Along with Springs and Shocks/Struts, improvements to the suspension can be made through new swaybars (Racing Beat again, but there are some other manufacturers getting good reviews) and polyurethane bushings that don't have the give that rubber does.
For places to look when shopping for parts for your 7, the main places we all look are:
www.mazdatrix.com
www.racingbeat.com
and www.victoriabritish.com
The victoria british catalogue is free, and delivered seasonly, it's a VERY GOOD idea to sign up for one. Mazdatrix and Racing Beat are great places to look online for parts. For simple things, keep an eye out at the local NAPA Autoparts, since small things and stock replacements on some parts would be much cheaper local than ordering from afar.
Get ahold of your state's emissions requirements, since those can put a damper on some mods.
BRAKES! That's what I'm forgetting. The stock brakes aren't that bad if you keep 'em in good shape. If you're looking for upgrades, you're probably not gonna find anything until you go into more than double what you paid for the car! But the stock brakes are good, don't be shy to replace some parts. I just did the *whole freaking system* for like 1,000 Canuck Dollars. Hawk HP+ brake pads are probably the only improvement you'll find for a good price, and alof of people on here swear by them.
Aside from that, mods start going into the engine. Porting is a great way to get power out of a rotary, and get an engine rebuild at the same time. Get a compression test done on your engine (regular piston compression testors don't work on our engine, watch out).. The stock engine from the factory ran a 9.4:1 ratio, but you'll never see anywhere near that on an old 12a. When you "port" the engine, you're enlarging the intake and exhaust ports, effectively allowing more air/gas to get in, and more exhaust to get out. This leads to SIGNIFICANT improvements in hp. If you're keeping this car on the street, go for a "Street port". It enlarges the ports a bit, but not enough to make it so that your car needs to idle at 2000rpms and burn gas like a maniac. An engine rebuild on these cars always helps out, and a mild street port only costs an extra few hundred in a 2g rebuild job, so it's worth it while they're in there.
Other types of ports (purely for performance, you wouldn't wanna drive on them) range from Bridge port to JBridge (aka MonsteR) port, to peripheral ports.
For ignition, search up info on MSD. DLIDFIS (I believe that's how the acronym goes) is a direct-fire ignition system for your leading plugs, which gives you a bit more power and better fuel efficiency. Setting up an MSD box with 3 coils and new wires is a great upgrade to the craptacular distributor stock system. There are a few good tutorials on how to do it, with pics and everything.
Oh, and talking about tutorials, here's a link to Rx7Carl and Pratch's tutorial on how to remove that Rat's Nest of vacuum tubes on the top of your engine. If you're putting in the RB exhaust, you might as well get rid of all that emissions control mumbo-jumbo, as well as your Air Pump, which is sucking 3hp from your main pulleys anyway!:
http://maz_tutorials.totalimmage.com/
And one last thing. Note the fact that your car is *designed* to burn oil. I repeat: your car IS SUPPOSED to burn oil. There is an oil metering pump attached to the front of the block by the radiator, near the bottom of the block. This oil metering pump takes oil from your oilpan and injects it into the carb or intake manifold, to mix with the air/gas mixture. This lubricates the inside of your combustion chamber, which keeps the engine running. You'll wanna check that, as they're known to leak after time. The rebuild kits for the OMP (oil metering pump) are available here for $10:
http://www.loweperformance.com/
This is one of those things that will kill your engine if you're not careful. NEVER USE SYNTHETIC OIL. This is very important. Synthetic is designed not to burn, which as you can see is a problem in this system. Use regular old dinosaur oil, 10w30 is good. Check your oil often, and top-up when you need to. Change it often, your engine will thank you. Do searches on OMP, pre-mix and oil choice if you want to find out more.
That's all I can think of. Welcome to the club. I'm gonna save this post for sure :P
Jon
edit: a few things to do on your car before you get into performance improvements, to make sure it's running well:
FUEL FILTER! - $5 and 5 minutes, and it's probably never been done, it's worth it.
Plugs and Plug Wires, go NGK for plugs BR8EQ-14 are good for a stock port.
Prestone Coolant Flush is a good idea, along with some new 50/50, to keep the coolant system running nice and clean. Throw a thermostat and gasket in while you're in there.
Oil Change - 10w30
Tranny Oil check and Change (RedLine MT-90 is the best stuff you'll ever use)
Rear Differential Oil check and Change (75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil from a local NAPA or something.
Throw a can of Carb Cleaner through the carb too, it could probably use it.
Last edited by vipernicus42; 07-23-03 at 11:46 PM.
07-24-03, 12:03 AM
#10
Another Quick Addition:
I didn't feel like editing the novel above, so I figured I'd throw in what I forgot about the fuel system in here:
To be able to tune your car properly and get the best power out of it, you need a good fuel system. An aftermarket pump, a fuel pressure regulator and a pressrure guage (along with new lines) goes a LONG way towards getting those hp numbers up.
Fuel Pumps:
The three most common names thrown around are Carter, Mallory and Holley. I can't tell you much about them except that the Carter (I believe) is very loud :P You'll have to search
For a Guage, Paul Yaw has gotten the entire setup for a fuel system down to a science, if only I could find the part of his page that talks about the fuel system setup and lists his parts for sale... grrr... He's found the most accurate fuel pressure guage, so if someone has the URL for the page I'm talking about, could ya please post it?
And now THAT's about all I can think of. Everybody, feel free to throw other things in!
Jon
I didn't feel like editing the novel above, so I figured I'd throw in what I forgot about the fuel system in here:
To be able to tune your car properly and get the best power out of it, you need a good fuel system. An aftermarket pump, a fuel pressure regulator and a pressrure guage (along with new lines) goes a LONG way towards getting those hp numbers up.
Fuel Pumps:
The three most common names thrown around are Carter, Mallory and Holley. I can't tell you much about them except that the Carter (I believe) is very loud :P You'll have to search
For a Guage, Paul Yaw has gotten the entire setup for a fuel system down to a science, if only I could find the part of his page that talks about the fuel system setup and lists his parts for sale... grrr... He's found the most accurate fuel pressure guage, so if someone has the URL for the page I'm talking about, could ya please post it?
And now THAT's about all I can think of. Everybody, feel free to throw other things in!
Jon
07-24-03, 12:16 PM
#15
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vipernicus42, Jon.
thanks man i never herd that much info off of a forum before, my mitsubishi one sucks, they are all like so you dont have 1500 to spend, well no need to help you.
i plan on getting all hte things done that you mention, start with the exuast, i put a new fuel filter and a k&n on it the day after i got it, also ram a can f car cleaner threw it, i i have found that all my exuast has been welded together at the flages, except the big *** hole right infront of my secont pre cat, so off to get that **** all riped out and just trow a pipe to preplace all hat from the manifold to the muffler, its only 50 bucks and it will get me buy unitll i have the 570 for the RB kit, kinky ride re[lyed ot me, but i was not real impressed with it, i think i will go with thte RB kit insted, and one thing i got to do is pull of thoses nasty wheels 13x7 AR 5 stars,
once again thatnks to everyone that has posted
Robert
Smoke'm if you Got'm
thanks man i never herd that much info off of a forum before, my mitsubishi one sucks, they are all like so you dont have 1500 to spend, well no need to help you.
i plan on getting all hte things done that you mention, start with the exuast, i put a new fuel filter and a k&n on it the day after i got it, also ram a can f car cleaner threw it, i i have found that all my exuast has been welded together at the flages, except the big *** hole right infront of my secont pre cat, so off to get that **** all riped out and just trow a pipe to preplace all hat from the manifold to the muffler, its only 50 bucks and it will get me buy unitll i have the 570 for the RB kit, kinky ride re[lyed ot me, but i was not real impressed with it, i think i will go with thte RB kit insted, and one thing i got to do is pull of thoses nasty wheels 13x7 AR 5 stars,
once again thatnks to everyone that has posted
Robert
Smoke'm if you Got'm
07-25-03, 12:27 AM
#16
POST *****!!!
Oh wait.. that's s'posed to be in the Iotus Thread:https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=3
Oh well, I'll just make this a "normal" bump then until it can get archived :P
Jon
Oh wait.. that's s'posed to be in the Iotus Thread:https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=3
Oh well, I'll just make this a "normal" bump then until it can get archived :P
Jon
08-01-03, 09:02 PM
#17
I found the part of paul yaw's site dealing with building a good fuel delivery system! here's the page explaining *why* you should have certain parts of your fuel delivery system, and how important they are:
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/fueldel.html
and this is the page where he lists his prices and recommendations for the pump, pressure regulator, pressure guage and other misc stuff he thinks you need
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/access.html
Well, that wraps up this thread pretty much... now why hasn't it been archived yet?
Jon
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/fueldel.html
and this is the page where he lists his prices and recommendations for the pump, pressure regulator, pressure guage and other misc stuff he thinks you need
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/access.html
Well, that wraps up this thread pretty much... now why hasn't it been archived yet?
Jon
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