Mechanical Secondaries, Nikki.
02-15-11, 09:46 AM
#1
Mechanical Secondaries, Nikki.
I think I'm going mechanical secondaries on my nikki to get rid of my secondary diaphram. I have another very old school Nikki that has already been setup for MS's. Both arms have been welded together that need to be, instead of tied together. I'm thinking of just taking my setup off and putting these arms on from this old school Nikki.. I can post pics if someone wants to see.
I'd like to see pictures and/or opinions from others of how they've done their's. This is something I'm not completely sure I want to do yet,
Reasons I want to: eliminates Secondary diaphram, therefore I don't have to about that ever going bad. More Simplified.
I want to be in control of the secondaries opening.
Reasons why not: right now my Nikki runs flawlessly.
I've also posted something here:
http://417rotary.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&p=1404
Thanks,
-Crispin
I'd like to see pictures and/or opinions from others of how they've done their's. This is something I'm not completely sure I want to do yet,
Reasons I want to: eliminates Secondary diaphram, therefore I don't have to about that ever going bad. More Simplified.
I want to be in control of the secondaries opening.
Reasons why not: right now my Nikki runs flawlessly.
I've also posted something here:
http://417rotary.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&p=1404
Thanks,
-Crispin
02-15-11, 11:11 AM
#4
If you are unsure about the mech secondary mod and want to test it out just use a zip tie to tie the two linkages together and take it for a test drive. Yes the AP will not be modded, and the vaccum box will still be on there, but it will give you a good idea how it feels and whether you want to commit to doing the full mod.
02-15-11, 11:25 AM
#6
If you are unsure about the mech secondary mod and want to test it out just use a zip tie to tie the two linkages together and take it for a test drive. Yes the AP will not be modded, and the vaccum box will still be on there, but it will give you a good idea how it feels and whether you want to commit to doing the full mod.
Link doesn't work?
I'll try again. I'll also look at the post.
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02-16-11, 12:04 PM
#14
it looks like the second you push the throttle down to open the primaries the secondaries open at the same time. so they open equally instead of the secondaries opening at about 1/2 throttle. judging by the picture you put up. correct me if im wrong
02-16-11, 12:36 PM
#15
Yes, that is true, but, I switched the arm that goes on the primary throttle shaft and then used the welded section of the secondaries so it works the 'regular' way. I'll look up the part number in one of GlazedHams diagrams if you want.
I could use it like it was setup, so that all four barrels open at once. But then I might as well go back to my weber setup. Cause it should behave the same way.
I could use it like it was setup, so that all four barrels open at once. But then I might as well go back to my weber setup. Cause it should behave the same way.
02-16-11, 12:39 PM
#16
Also, when I put the Old school setup on my Naked Nikki it wouldn't allow the primaries to open all the way because of the way the arms are proportioned for the Old School Nikki. So I basically combined the two setups so that it would work the best to fit my wants.
02-16-11, 03:52 PM
#17
Lives on the Forum
With Mech Secondaries, the secondaries should begin to open when the primaries are at about 50%. Otherwise, driving it would be a real bitch.
.
.
02-16-11, 08:59 PM
#20
I absolutely Love the Nikki, or My Nikki, My Naked Nikki. 
I recently switched from a Modded 48 IDF Weber setup. And, since then i've become obsessed with this carb, without a doubt. It has a spell on me or something.
When i put it on initially, i stripped the mani of emissions and etc as you can see in my pictures. I then lightly(i mean lightly), stripped the nikki(the mani and carb was given to me, before hand i had no prior experience with the nikki, had a Weber since i bought my car. 4 years ago), just of the choke, and emissions, dashpots etc. As i was rebuilding it to put on my car for the first time, Whatever. Already enjoyed it, not nearly as cold natured. I already was flattered with the progressive 4-Barrel carb concept, small primaries for cruising enjoyment, big primaries for when i dust some civics. Gets way bettter mileage,(wait, i better not say that, i'll get bitched at for wanting good mileage on my rotary, guess what, it's my DD, and i want power, and economy, i don't care if i'm searching for something i won't find.) As far as power goes, i definetly won't say it makes more peak power, but, my power band is scary. It pulls down below 4k rpm all the way up to 8500 rpm! And hard, it's definetly not for the weak of heart.
After that i then become obsessed with stripping my Nikki Down even more, then went bye bye to the vent selonoid, high altitude compensator, and recently Mechanical Secondaries. I've also done some things to my AP linkage. Much much more, as far as mods go. Not anything left to strip!
And some random things, like i'm not running the heat shield, which i haven't heard of anyone trying...
Besides all of the above, it could be the worst carb setup in the world i'd still run it, cause my Naked Nikki is just so damn sexy!
It took me a while to fine tune the thing, but, it's been worth it. I've tried alot of different things, i can definetly say my nikki is 'strange'. I'll probably be the only one that trashes a weber for a Nikki, i'll probably be the only one that uses one on a Monster Port, that's Daily Driven. But i have a ton of crazy ideas i've encorporated on my car.
Anyways, i like talking about my nikki, and how great they/mine is/are. Specially because everyone talks alot of trash on em'.
Ahh, but now i do remember my initial reason for switching.. Mainly because of it being a progressive 4 barrel. But, in my 87' racing beat catalog, it states that on a J-Port 12A, WITH A NIKKI can produce 240 HP.
It also reads that on a J-Port 12A a 48 IDA Weber can make 235..
You don't have to believe me.
I recently switched from a Modded 48 IDF Weber setup. And, since then i've become obsessed with this carb, without a doubt. It has a spell on me or something.
When i put it on initially, i stripped the mani of emissions and etc as you can see in my pictures. I then lightly(i mean lightly), stripped the nikki(the mani and carb was given to me, before hand i had no prior experience with the nikki, had a Weber since i bought my car. 4 years ago), just of the choke, and emissions, dashpots etc. As i was rebuilding it to put on my car for the first time, Whatever. Already enjoyed it, not nearly as cold natured. I already was flattered with the progressive 4-Barrel carb concept, small primaries for cruising enjoyment, big primaries for when i dust some civics. Gets way bettter mileage,(wait, i better not say that, i'll get bitched at for wanting good mileage on my rotary, guess what, it's my DD, and i want power, and economy, i don't care if i'm searching for something i won't find.) As far as power goes, i definetly won't say it makes more peak power, but, my power band is scary. It pulls down below 4k rpm all the way up to 8500 rpm! And hard, it's definetly not for the weak of heart.
After that i then become obsessed with stripping my Nikki Down even more, then went bye bye to the vent selonoid, high altitude compensator, and recently Mechanical Secondaries. I've also done some things to my AP linkage. Much much more, as far as mods go. Not anything left to strip!
And some random things, like i'm not running the heat shield, which i haven't heard of anyone trying...
Besides all of the above, it could be the worst carb setup in the world i'd still run it, cause my Naked Nikki is just so damn sexy!
It took me a while to fine tune the thing, but, it's been worth it. I've tried alot of different things, i can definetly say my nikki is 'strange'. I'll probably be the only one that trashes a weber for a Nikki, i'll probably be the only one that uses one on a Monster Port, that's Daily Driven. But i have a ton of crazy ideas i've encorporated on my car.
Anyways, i like talking about my nikki, and how great they/mine is/are. Specially because everyone talks alot of trash on em'.
Ahh, but now i do remember my initial reason for switching.. Mainly because of it being a progressive 4 barrel. But, in my 87' racing beat catalog, it states that on a J-Port 12A, WITH A NIKKI can produce 240 HP.
It also reads that on a J-Port 12A a 48 IDA Weber can make 235..
You don't have to believe me.
Last edited by Crispin38; 02-16-11 at 09:05 PM.
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diabolical1 (11-07-23)
02-16-11, 09:15 PM
#21
talking head
here are a few of my old posts from elsewhere
washer
welder
wallah !!
note the linkage deliberately has some intial movement before taking up on the cam
remember to remove the vacuum linkage ! failure to do so can amount to throttle stuck at WOT !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMRMSPXEh_A
note i have 1/3 throttle before the link moves ,, both throttles drive 100% open , and have no binding in the shut position
bending the inside link slightly will adjust the spot at which the secondary throttle starts to open
the washer welded method works AOK for me,, this one isnt coming off !
this washer method gives the ultimate user adjust of any of the mechanical link methods
bending the interior part of the linkage will amount to more or less slack before the cam takes up,, adjusting the staged throttle point
anyways ,, the other ways to skin the cat----
fully welded link,,, care must be taken to avoid a secondary link bind so as to make a 4 corner idle
same as above
the wire tie method , guilty of this one myself
remember to leave some slack to attain a fully shut secondary at idle
another wire tied method,,bet this one doesnt last as long as the welded washer method !
- and i also bet its prone to stretching and changing slightly with usage
hitachi carb mod
--------------
Originally Posted by bumpstart
washer
welder
wallah !!
note the linkage deliberately has some intial movement before taking up on the cam
remember to remove the vacuum linkage ! failure to do so can amount to throttle stuck at WOT !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMRMSPXEh_A
note i have 1/3 throttle before the link moves ,, both throttles drive 100% open , and have no binding in the shut position
bending the inside link slightly will adjust the spot at which the secondary throttle starts to open
Originally Posted by bumpstart
the washer welded method works AOK for me,, this one isnt coming off !
this washer method gives the ultimate user adjust of any of the mechanical link methods
bending the interior part of the linkage will amount to more or less slack before the cam takes up,, adjusting the staged throttle point
anyways ,, the other ways to skin the cat----
fully welded link,,, care must be taken to avoid a secondary link bind so as to make a 4 corner idle
same as above
the wire tie method , guilty of this one myself
remember to leave some slack to attain a fully shut secondary at idle
another wire tied method,,bet this one doesnt last as long as the welded washer method !
- and i also bet its prone to stretching and changing slightly with usage
hitachi carb mod
--------------
12-03-11, 05:41 AM
#23
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after getting back fixed with the diaphram i wish i would have just done the secondary mod. Those pictures are not good quality so i really dont want to go jumping in it.
12-06-11, 07:21 AM
#24
The earlier the secondaries open the more bottom end torque you will get. When I experimented with secondaries opening around 10% throttle it was pulling hard at very low rpm as soon as they open. This has been confirmed by someone I spoke to about this, but they said in their experience the fuel economy almost doubled with this setup. ATM I modify the linkage arm and redrill the hole to get secondaries opening around 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
If all you do is weld or wire tie the linkages, the secondaries will open very late, maybe 75% throttle IIRC. The problem from this is that the AP is out of fuel by then and you get the lean bog on a lot of low to mid rpm transitions. With earlier opening secondaries and proper foot control (understanding the AP helps) you will almost never get the lean bog.
I like the look of bumpstart's mod, will have to try that one.
link to my version https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/improved-mech-secondaries-mod-969355/
If all you do is weld or wire tie the linkages, the secondaries will open very late, maybe 75% throttle IIRC. The problem from this is that the AP is out of fuel by then and you get the lean bog on a lot of low to mid rpm transitions. With earlier opening secondaries and proper foot control (understanding the AP helps) you will almost never get the lean bog.
I like the look of bumpstart's mod, will have to try that one.
link to my version https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/improved-mech-secondaries-mod-969355/
