Mechanical Gage Routing
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 17
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From: Newport News VA
Mechanical Gage Routing
I have a 1985 12a. Does anyone have some good routing suggestions for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp from engine compartment to inside. Also if any has some pics on arrangement I would appreciate some for ideas.
Thanks
Thanks
Welcome to the board! 
Come one people don't let this new member down. Someone on here should have something to say.
I wish I could be more help. All I can do at the moment is to reply to move this back to the top of the list.

Come one people don't let this new member down. Someone on here should have something to say.
I wish I could be more help. All I can do at the moment is to reply to move this back to the top of the list.
BillGo
I would suggest you run all your lines on the left side (driver's side) thru a new hole since you are going to run 3 gauges. If you are running mechanical gauges you have to avoid kinks in the copper lines. Try to coil or spiral the copper lines close to the fitting at the engine so as to prevent them from breaking with engine movement over time. The oil pressure being the most critical here. There is nothing worst than loosing oil at a race. If you use braided lines even better. But copper works ok if you do a good instalation.
I don't have any pictures of a settup like you describe but I did have another car with an oil pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge both mechanical. I ran the lines both on the left side of the firewall close to the rubber sleeve for the wiring harness.
My current rx has only a mechanical FP gauge and an A/F meter which I installed like this:
This is what I did for the FPR and FPisolator for my mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Warning slow server...
FPR and isolator
isolator instalation...see where I routed the braided line
A/F ratio and mechanical FPgauge indash
installation pics
I would suggest you run all your lines on the left side (driver's side) thru a new hole since you are going to run 3 gauges. If you are running mechanical gauges you have to avoid kinks in the copper lines. Try to coil or spiral the copper lines close to the fitting at the engine so as to prevent them from breaking with engine movement over time. The oil pressure being the most critical here. There is nothing worst than loosing oil at a race. If you use braided lines even better. But copper works ok if you do a good instalation.
I don't have any pictures of a settup like you describe but I did have another car with an oil pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge both mechanical. I ran the lines both on the left side of the firewall close to the rubber sleeve for the wiring harness.
My current rx has only a mechanical FP gauge and an A/F meter which I installed like this:
This is what I did for the FPR and FPisolator for my mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Warning slow server...
FPR and isolator
isolator instalation...see where I routed the braided line
A/F ratio and mechanical FPgauge indash
installation pics
As we speak, I am having this done in Carbon Fiber..
Nice to have your gauges look like they belong, as opposed to an afterthought. I am trying to get it as a template to sell later.
Original picture is from another forum member (I forgot who), has been modified further.
Nice to have your gauges look like they belong, as opposed to an afterthought. I am trying to get it as a template to sell later.
Original picture is from another forum member (I forgot who), has been modified further.
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SRTx781
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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