The Mazda Miracle
Todoy my 1984 gls-se died for no aparent reason. Not knowing what was wrong, my friend and I replaced the ignighters. After returning the distributer to the car it would not fire at all. Thinking we had maybe messed up the timing when we pulled the distributor, I decided to attempt to set my timing without any idea what I was doing at all. I pulled the distributer, spun it until I felt it was perfect and put it back. It fired up right away, and ran very smoothly.
It doesnt really make any sense to me... I mean what are the chances?
It doesnt really make any sense to me... I mean what are the chances?
I did the same thing on my 80.. Luck of the 7 I tell ya!! I switch the dist. from one car to the other and it worked smoothly.. Although I'm still going to get it timed to make sure but at least I don't have to worry about it until later..
You are lucky, but I bet your off by a couple teeth or 180 degrees.
Let me ask you this: Can you crank it just long enough *blip* to get the motor spinning while it's hot? And then, does it catch?
I had a similar problem with mine and after some trial and error I was able to get ignition on the first turn.
Then it had this weird cold start problem
Let me ask you this: Can you crank it just long enough *blip* to get the motor spinning while it's hot? And then, does it catch?
I had a similar problem with mine and after some trial and error I was able to get ignition on the first turn.
Then it had this weird cold start problem
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dist r&r
Being that the rx7 dist is one of the easiest to put in and out. Key rule, line up the yellow timing pointer with the notch on the pulley. While dropping the dist in, make sure that the dots at the bottom of dist are lined up, the rotor should be pointed toward the L1 side on the dist cap, holding it tightly by the rotor, just
slip it in the hole. When you put the cap on the rotor should be pointing toward the L1. As far as timing, if you tighten the nut at the base of the dist, you should be able to see where it has made a wear mark to the slide, matching this you should be almost dead on for the leading. as far as the trailing, as long as you have not disturbed the adjustment on the vacuum advance, it will generally be dead on. Tip, next time changing the ignitors. First verify which one is out by putting a timing light on both leading and trailing and seeing which one does not light up. You also do not need to remove the dist to change the ignitors. The one closest to the engine is the hardest, but with a angled screwdriver, it comes right off
slip it in the hole. When you put the cap on the rotor should be pointing toward the L1. As far as timing, if you tighten the nut at the base of the dist, you should be able to see where it has made a wear mark to the slide, matching this you should be almost dead on for the leading. as far as the trailing, as long as you have not disturbed the adjustment on the vacuum advance, it will generally be dead on. Tip, next time changing the ignitors. First verify which one is out by putting a timing light on both leading and trailing and seeing which one does not light up. You also do not need to remove the dist to change the ignitors. The one closest to the engine is the hardest, but with a angled screwdriver, it comes right off
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AMOC
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Sep 10, 2015 09:42 AM




