I know short of porting theres not a whole lot of aftermarket upgrades for rotaries. IE forged internals and what not.

Anyway I was just wondering what the largest successful N20 shot anyone has run on a 12A? I had heard that the apex seals don't like the exreme cold temps of N20 but I have no evidance or exp to back this up. Is this true?

I'm not looking to blow anything up. But if people are making reliable 300 plus HP with turbo kits and a port job I don't see why a large shot of N20 couldn't be substuted? I know I'd have to adjust timing accordingly as well as plug temp ranges and fuel octane.

Currently I've got a washed out 50 shot installed and probably won't go any higher. But I'm just curious...

Thanks...

 

well in a week or to i will let you know how mine works out i got a plate system...alot of ppl on this forum or scared of nitrous ..but if used right it can be safe and fast..i have a read ppl say you can go over a 75 shot than there are ppl saying they run 100 shots.. i know a guy that ran 100 shot all the time with no problems but like i said i will let you know how it works out for me in the next week or so

 

off topic, but where did you get those "silverline" rear rims

 

Where did you get this plate from? Is it running on your stock carb/intake manifold? I'd like to do this instead of tapping into my manifold... if you can post back before I do so that'd be AWESOME!

 

That'd be great. My only real concern is the apex seals and the extreme cold. I can definatly see how people get carried away and blow things up. This stuff is addictive!

I had to airbrush on a reminder that this is dangerous stuff...




They are weld drag lites... Bought them from Jegs. I have 5 lug ford axle pattern. Heres an old pic... And yes my car was once that ugly!




Making a carburator hat setup would be really easy. Just get any old honda cold air intake kit and fab it to the carb. Then tap the tube with a fogger nozzle and your done.

Also installing a fogger nozzle on top of the factory air box lid with some 90 degree fittings is another simple alternative to a plate system.

I went ahead and tapped the manifold took me about 4 hours to remove it clean it up and port it a bit. Then install new o-rings and gaskets. (which you should probably do anyway!) Pretty easy, and no need for a plate.

 

i have a holley carb..with a nos cheater plate system and a RB intake manifold that you need to either mod or run a 1/2 inch spacer under the plate system

 

The problem with plate systems is that you're getting the nitrous injection from only one side. That sometimes leaves the other side high and dry and leads to detonation.

A few months ago I was speaking to the kind folks of Nitrous Express. They told me that if I sent them a gasket cutout they could make a Niki carb plate for only 200. Which is exactly the price one would pay for a carb hat+intake cone filter+plumbing. This would solve the problem of using a multi-fit n2O plate.

Other than that, personally I wouldn't play with anything above a

75 shot stock
100 with street port
100 with exhaust ports
150 with street and exhaust ports
200 with pp and exhaust

Anyone else is free to correct me, but these are the conclusions I came to a while back when I theorized a nitrous setup to gain more speed in the straight line sense.

 

not to sure what kinda of plate system you are talking about....my plate sprays an even amount of nitrous and fule out both sides of the brass tubes. witch are in the middel of the plates system. witch sprays down the front and rear rotor ports...

im not sure where you are getting your info from about the plate system but its not true...

you also said you woudlint spray anything over a 75 shot on a stock port motor..but you would spray a 100 shot on a street port? that does not makes much sense to me seeing as the only thing that changed is the port size..the motor didint get any stronger... the 100 shot is going to be just as hard on the stock port as it is on the street port.........unless you took the time to put in some high $$$ apex seals and some stronger gears...but why would you do that with a street port rebuild?

 

Which are you doing?

Will the nitrous plate plus the spacer and the carb and filter have hood clearance issues?

I was planning on removing some material from the manifold myself.

 

ok my plate system is a 1/2 inch plate..im putting a half inch spacer under it ...thats 1 inch all together.. when running the rb holley manifold the plate system will spray onto the manifold and not atomiz good so you either have to use a 1/2 inch spacer under the palte system or mod the intake manifold or do both

as far as i know there is clearance...but im not running a air filter i have a velocity stack.. but there should be enough room other ppl have done it

 

81gsl12a has a point.

With your numbers, the "stock port" and "Street port" should be the same.


It should read "stock, un-rebuilt engine", "recently well rebuilt engine" and "engine rebuilt with upgraded internals (hardened stat gears, 3rd gen corner seal springs, etc...)"

Jon

 

Yes those numbers were researched for NON-recently rebuilt engines.

The port sizes compensate for airflow, not amount of combustion. Larger ports mean more air can easily flow.

I was just typing that up during my study hall from school. I actually have some notes stashed away somewhere. An old friend of mine that introduced me to the rotary engine blew his 13b so he put a 12a in his FC and we spent a summer playing with nitrous. Since only the motor ran and the rest of the car was pretty much shot.

 

port size is not going to change anything other than how much hp the car makes off the bottle the port size is not going to make the motor any strong if you spray a 150 on s bridge port with stock internals than you can do the same thing with a stock port motor

when it comes down to it is all about tuning........

 

Speaking of tuning, how hard is it to tune a carb to run nitrous, i could machine a plate for under the carb like nothing, just a couple hours work, if i knew what fittings i needed for the nitrous setup, i would make my own plate with the nitrous ports on the top half of the spacer to allow for better anotamizing (sp?).

 

this is what the plate looks like on my car

fule comes in on 1 side nitrous on the other and they go in to 2 little brass pipe. that has holes on both sides at an angle so there is an even spray across the plate

 

tuning a carb for nitrous is ez long as you have a wet shot lol you dont have to do anything with a wet shot you could run the car with out any gas in the carb...(this is if you have a stand alone fule system for the nitrous)

or you can set your carb up to be a lil rich if it makes you feel safer

 

I like it, now i totally want to make one. Grrr...i dont want to take off the carb to get a patern tho. Maybe just but a gasket and match it. Even just make a spacer for now so i can run a little more fuel. Anyone want to scan thier spacer? lol

 

you have a nikki or a holley?

 

a nikki

 

i have a holley and plan on running a 75 shot. s.p. w/ bp. outers. read in my thread I just posted..I just got a wide band. tell me your thoughts!!!. Sorry to jack up thread.

 

The problem with plate systems is they don't atomize the fuel as much as a fogger nozzle. IMO fogger nozzle is the way to go.

 

You mean like having four foggers, one on each intake runner right? Ya i know thats awsome, but for us "not hardcore" guys, that dont have a tonne of money, the wet system will work fine.

 

fogger is the best... plate is very good and cheeper

 

exactly, and especially when i can make a plate for like 20 bucks