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Going to upgrade my SA to electronic dizzy. I rotated pulley, saw 2 small notches, no coloring (supposed to line pin up with yellow).
How to tell which notch is correct?
This is a good resource. Scroll down a little to see 79 and other first gen rx-7 timing. The leading mark should be yellow and trailing white. I just use some Testers paint and a toothpick to paint them.
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Aug 15, 2019 at 01:38 PM.
I read that rotor needs to face L1. I have TDC notch lined up on flywheel. This is the new distributor, old one was lined up just like this. Never would quite start either. Does this look correct?
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
Excellent even I can understand that lol.
The flywheel cover is missing so it’ll be easy to check this tomorrow, thanks!
This is a good resource. Scroll down a little to see 79 and other first gen rx-7 timing. The leading mark should be yellow and trailing white. I just use some Testers paint and a toothpick to paint them.
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
You are the man, great link! And amazing that you're willing to powder coat for people like that, without a doubt. I might have to call in a favor eventually...
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
Weird my flywheel doesn’t look like that, rotated all around, no flat spot
Another question guys (likely dumb) but I have the 84 distributor harness. Per instructions by bobrx7 I think I understand where the 4 wires go from igniters to coils.
Theres a large red/white wire on the dizzy side in this harness, looks like 12v. Where does it connect ?
Large red/white wire in harness is alternator output wire that goes from alternator output stud over to main fuse link on left inner fender on all FBs. Remove it or tape the ends,not necessary in your application. I can see your alternator output(black) wire on alternator
On my used harness, I noticed that there’s a B/w wire on both leading and trailing igniter connectors, yet on the coil side there’s b/w and w/r. Meter shows they’re connected somewhere in the wiring loom. .2 ohms.
Is this normal or has someone hacked the harness? I need to know before I put 12 v on it. I know 12 oughta be there, guess I’m just a bit paranoid lol.
On an original harness there is a black/yellow wire and a white/black wire going to each igniter. The black/yellow wire powers the igniter thru same part of harness that feeds ignition coils which originates at ignition switch. The white/black wire goes from each igniter over to its respective ignition coil negative terminal. This is the wire that carries the signal to fire the ignition coil from the igniter. Again,there should be only one 10 gauge white/red wire in that harness and that connects the alternator to the main fuselink on a FB model and in your application won't connect to anything.
How about you post a pic of complete harness you have to connect to FB distributor so i can see what you have. From what little i can see that 10 gauge black/white wire does not belong there. The tape job i can see is somewhat recent,definitely not factory.
Will look back on your thread tomorrow.
Here’s where the wire is joined.
The pic shows B/w and w/r on the coil ends of the harness, b/w on both igniter conniectors.
Thank you for helping me on this, it may be fine but I need to be sure before I attach battery and try to start it.
That is not an original unmolested harness,from what i can see,it didn't come from a running car...refer back to my previous post. Leading and trailing igniter wiring each have their own SEPARATE power and signal return wires.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
That is not an original unmolested harness,from what i can see,it didn't come from a running car...refer back to my previous post. Leading and trailing igniter wiring each have their own SEPARATE power and signal return wires.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
Wow thanks! I've gotten in contact with my source to get a replacement. I'll ask for some spare igniters as well.
Get 2 thin alan wrenches (or steel wire or anything like that) and put them into the spark plug holes. Make sure they're touching the rotor and get them as perpendicular to the side of the keg as you can. The trailing hole is small. Slowly and carefully rotate the engine one way or the other. With one finger on each alan, you'll feel one go in an one go out. When the wrenches feel like they're even even you've found TDC.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
Last edited by FührerTüner; Aug 21, 2019 at 12:28 PM.
remove the top inspection plate/cover on the bell housing. via main pulley bolt, rotate the engine until the tip of the tear counter weight is exposed (half moon facing the exhaust) and pointing at 12:00 position. for 12a, the first mark on the main pulley (lined up with the pointer) is TDC.
just for reference, the position of the key way on both stock flywheel and rear counterweight are the same
Last edited by Siraniko; Aug 21, 2019 at 01:43 PM.
Get 2 thin alan wrenches (or steel wire or anything like that) and put them into the spark plug holes. Make sure they're touching the rotor and get them as perpendicular to the side of the keg as you can. The trailing hole is small. Slowly and carefully rotate the engine one way or the other. With one finger on each alan, you'll feel one go in an one go out. When the wrenches feel like they're even even you've found TDC.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
Wired up my own harness using igniter plugs on hacked one. It actually started and eventually ran well and idled!
Now on to the many other issues with this long term restoration.
Sincerely appreciating all the great knowledge and help!
