Which Mark is TDC
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Which Mark is TDC
Going to upgrade my SA to electronic dizzy. I rotated pulley, saw 2 small notches, no coloring (supposed to line pin up with yellow).
How to tell which notch is correct?
How to tell which notch is correct?
#2
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
This is a good resource. Scroll down a little to see 79 and other first gen rx-7 timing. The leading mark should be yellow and trailing white. I just use some Testers paint and a toothpick to paint them.
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/...ION_TIMING.htm
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/...ION_TIMING.htm
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 08-15-19 at 01:38 PM.
#4
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
I read that rotor needs to face L1. I have TDC notch lined up on flywheel. This is the new distributor, old one was lined up just like this. Never would quite start either. Does this look correct?
#7
ancient wizard...
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
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#8
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
The flywheel cover is missing so it’ll be easy to check this tomorrow, thanks!
#9
Always Wanting to Learn
iTrader: (49)
This is a good resource. Scroll down a little to see 79 and other first gen rx-7 timing. The leading mark should be yellow and trailing white. I just use some Testers paint and a toothpick to paint them.
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/...ION_TIMING.htm
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/...ION_TIMING.htm
Since your doing all this work, I will powder coat a bunch of stuff for free if you want. Things like pulleys, brackets, etc. If it's metal and will fit in my oven (19"x19") I can powder coat it. Just pay shipping back. I have a ton of gloss black I can use. If you want a custom color just pay for the powder.
#10
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
To be sure the engine is at TDC on rotor#1 take off little tin cover on back right side of engine. If at TDC you will see the flats on flywheel lined up with side of engine. For inserting the distributor in engine,line up cutout in distributor housing with mark on dist drive gear lined up in picture and drop distributor in engine,should be like what you see in pic.
#12
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
#13
Always Wanting to Learn
iTrader: (49)
I had this issue a few years back now, was a total pain to try and figure out.
Timing an Auto 12a: Austin's Red RestoMod - You Just Wait and See...
Timing an Auto 12a: Austin's Red RestoMod - You Just Wait and See...
#14
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Another question guys (likely dumb) but I have the 84 distributor harness. Per instructions by bobrx7 I think I understand where the 4 wires go from igniters to coils.
Theres a large red/white wire on the dizzy side in this harness, looks like 12v. Where does it connect ?
Theres a large red/white wire on the dizzy side in this harness, looks like 12v. Where does it connect ?
#15
ancient wizard...
Large red/white wire in harness is alternator output wire that goes from alternator output stud over to main fuse link on left inner fender on all FBs. Remove it or tape the ends,not necessary in your application. I can see your alternator output(black) wire on alternator
#16
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
On my used harness, I noticed that there’s a B/w wire on both leading and trailing igniter connectors, yet on the coil side there’s b/w and w/r. Meter shows they’re connected somewhere in the wiring loom. .2 ohms.
Is this normal or has someone hacked the harness? I need to know before I put 12 v on it. I know 12 oughta be there, guess I’m just a bit paranoid lol.
Is this normal or has someone hacked the harness? I need to know before I put 12 v on it. I know 12 oughta be there, guess I’m just a bit paranoid lol.
Last edited by mwpayne; 08-20-19 at 08:19 PM.
#17
ancient wizard...
On an original harness there is a black/yellow wire and a white/black wire going to each igniter. The black/yellow wire powers the igniter thru same part of harness that feeds ignition coils which originates at ignition switch. The white/black wire goes from each igniter over to its respective ignition coil negative terminal. This is the wire that carries the signal to fire the ignition coil from the igniter. Again,there should be only one 10 gauge white/red wire in that harness and that connects the alternator to the main fuselink on a FB model and in your application won't connect to anything.
How about you post a pic of complete harness you have to connect to FB distributor so i can see what you have. From what little i can see that 10 gauge black/white wire does not belong there. The tape job i can see is somewhat recent,definitely not factory.
Will look back on your thread tomorrow.
How about you post a pic of complete harness you have to connect to FB distributor so i can see what you have. From what little i can see that 10 gauge black/white wire does not belong there. The tape job i can see is somewhat recent,definitely not factory.
Will look back on your thread tomorrow.
#18
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Here’s where the wire is joined.
The pic shows B/w and w/r on the coil ends of the harness, b/w on both igniter conniectors.
Thank you for helping me on this, it may be fine but I need to be sure before I attach battery and try to start it.
The pic shows B/w and w/r on the coil ends of the harness, b/w on both igniter conniectors.
Thank you for helping me on this, it may be fine but I need to be sure before I attach battery and try to start it.
Last edited by mwpayne; 08-21-19 at 08:08 AM.
#19
ancient wizard...
That is not an original unmolested harness,from what i can see,it didn't come from a running car...refer back to my previous post. Leading and trailing igniter wiring each have their own SEPARATE power and signal return wires.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
#20
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
That is not an original unmolested harness,from what i can see,it didn't come from a running car...refer back to my previous post. Leading and trailing igniter wiring each have their own SEPARATE power and signal return wires.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
That harness has been cobbled up using pieces from different sections of car harness. The large white/red wire is clearly a section of alt output wire and the large black/white section is from a portion of ground wire used somewhere else in chassis.
The point where all the black/white wires are crimped soldered together is not correct and makes no sense. Do not install this and expect it to work. Maybe call person you got this from and ask for the original harness as this is clearly not it or make your own which would probably be faster and you know it will be correct.
No wonder you can't figure this out...at this point,you can only hope distributor sold to you has functional igniters.
#22
Penis Healthy
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Get 2 thin alan wrenches (or steel wire or anything like that) and put them into the spark plug holes. Make sure they're touching the rotor and get them as perpendicular to the side of the keg as you can. The trailing hole is small. Slowly and carefully rotate the engine one way or the other. With one finger on each alan, you'll feel one go in an one go out. When the wrenches feel like they're even even you've found TDC.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
Last edited by FührerTüner; 08-21-19 at 12:28 PM.
#23
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
remove the top inspection plate/cover on the bell housing. via main pulley bolt, rotate the engine until the tip of the tear counter weight is exposed (half moon facing the exhaust) and pointing at 12:00 position. for 12a, the first mark on the main pulley (lined up with the pointer) is TDC.
just for reference, the position of the key way on both stock flywheel and rear counterweight are the same
just for reference, the position of the key way on both stock flywheel and rear counterweight are the same
Last edited by Siraniko; 08-21-19 at 01:43 PM.
#24
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Get 2 thin alan wrenches (or steel wire or anything like that) and put them into the spark plug holes. Make sure they're touching the rotor and get them as perpendicular to the side of the keg as you can. The trailing hole is small. Slowly and carefully rotate the engine one way or the other. With one finger on each alan, you'll feel one go in an one go out. When the wrenches feel like they're even even you've found TDC.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
Not super accurate, but accurate enough to stab the CAS.
#25
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Wired up my own harness using igniter plugs on hacked one. It actually started and eventually ran well and idled!
Now on to the many other issues with this long term restoration.
Sincerely appreciating all the great knowledge and help!
Now on to the many other issues with this long term restoration.
Sincerely appreciating all the great knowledge and help!