Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Okay, on Saturday we got my car to run. Low Impedence set my timing and RX-71111m whatever's dad was there for moral support.

It ran! It idled! Although at 1500rpm, and the cats were glowing red!

So today I gutted my cats, put them back on... starts up very easily... no idle. Okay, I wait the usual 20 minutes since I've no choke... no idle.

Walk outside... puddle of oil on the ground. Okay... front mount oil cooler bottom line is leaking and the hose is leaking. WTF did that happen!?!?!?

I need help.

Peejay needs to come over. Low_Impedence can join for free food.

Help guys!

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, how was the cookout, 1st thing I'd do is check the timing for the heat issue.
Are you losing any coolant? What carb/rats nest are you running, if you have the rats nest it sounds like it could be the shutter valve.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Sterling carb, and rats nest removed. Cats glowing red due to air pump non-existance. They had to get the gut.

The Cookout was great! Its a shame you and Pete were working on your car. Should've come and worked on mine instead. Me and Alex kept in saying "if Pete were here".

But what I want to know is if a leaking oil line would cause it not to idle, and why is it leaking? It ran almost perfectly yesterday and the day before.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

I have a vague idea on why it won't idle. The other day when RX1111m or whatever's dad was adjusting my carb he told me that with the idle screw all the way it was the best it could do and it idled at 1500.

Now I'm thinking that the engine was running off of the uncombusted gasses that weren't escaping due to the clogged cat. So now that the cat issue is solved I need to go back to the carb and give the engine more fuel.

First it was too much fuel, then it was no fuel.

I still need to look into this oil line thing. When I saw the puddle on the ground my heart sank. Where's Pete?!?!

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

The oil leak wont be anything to do with the idle issue. Your logic sounds about right on the carb idle adjustment, go for it and try setting it yourself, do a search on which does what if you're not sure.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, the thing is half of the oil leak is coming from the middle of the lower hose, you can see the hose is damp, and it might also be dripping near the outlet of the oil cooler.

I'm going to address the oil problem before I start her up again. Last time it was the alternator going, so I couldn't play with the carb until I got a new one. Now its the oil something or other going so I STILL can't play with my Sterling Carb.

On an unrelated note, why is everyone in Ohio so anti-Sterling? Pete, Mark, Alex. They all call it the Sterling Satan Carb (well mine at least). I love the damn thing! Just because it doesn't have a choke, you pussies!... I mean. You guys are going to help me fix this, so I take that back! d'oh!

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

My Mikuni has no choke, starts every time with two short pumps of the pedal. Idles on its own after about 30 seconds.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

I don't really have any "two-pumps" thing. I just turn the key and play with the throttle until I fires up. I've become skilled enough not to flood it anymore, even with my horribly soiled spark plugs.

Low Impedence, aka Alex, had to take the spark plugs over to my grilled and try and clean them off! hahahahahah

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

might help to go buy some new fmoc lines from a hydrolic shop
im in hte same boat...

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Hint on cleaning spark plugs, spray them with brake cleaner, dries in seconds.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

lol. While the Mikunis have no choke butterfly, the do have a starter circuit, which richens up the mixture.

As for the oil line leak, take both hoses off and to a hydraulic shop, have them replace the rubber hoses, buy all new crush wahsers and reinstall. Be very careful tightening down the hoses on the 1st gen fmocs, the cooler bungs crack easily, I know, oops. Make sure that when they crimp the hoses, they have the fittings clocked correctly.

When the hoses are repaired, set the air mix screw back to stock. Turn it in until it seats, gently, then back out 3 full turns, unless Sterling/Carl advise otherwise.

My money is on a vacuum leak, unless the throttle screw on the carb, the rear one, is turned in too far.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

When we had it idling before I couldn't find any vacuum leaks with the carb cleaner spray.

I'll look for a hydraulic shop tomorrow. Call up some machinist friends and see if they know of anywhere.

Thanks guys, wouldn't have thought of that one.

Kentetsu

On my Sterling the standard 2.5 turns out on the idle mixture screw seems to do the trick. Tranquil, do me a big favor and just try this real quick: go out an mark the position of your dizzy, then crank it clockwise a bit (picture 5 minutes on a clock face) and then see if it will try to idle. I believe that your hot exhaust and your no idle have the same cause (retarded idle). I know that you already set the timing, but if it was idling high at the time and the vacuum advance was hooked up then your settings will be fubar (showing more advance than there really is). If I'm wrong then it will only take .75 seconds to get back to where you started (which is why I asked you to mark the current position on the dizzy)... Good luck.

Kentetsu

I don't believe that carb spray will identify a vaccum leak. I know that people are always recommending that, but what happens when you spray it into the carb? The engine bogs and you have to rev it to keep it running, right? So why do people say that if there is a leak then the engine will rev when you spray the leak? Uncover one of your vacuum ports and spray around it and see what happens. Just my 2 cents...

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Well the timing is't "correct" in any sense at all, unless the sense was to get it to start up. We only set it to the closest point of zero we could find to allow it to start. That was our "correct" at the time.

Now IIRC Sterling told me I needed to advance my timing from stock for his carb.

Hot exhaust was nothing more than no airpump on a cat'ed exhaust. The remains of my cat insides are in a garbage bag and the cat shells are bolted on the exhaust again.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you set the timing with it idling at 1500 rpm, it's off. Kentetsu makes a good point here.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

He does have a point.

But we set the timing with it idling at 0 rpm. We just set it to zero, or closest to it to get it to start up. It was a "hey, why the hell doesn't the hayne's manual tell us how to set the timing when it isn't running? it only says when to do so when idling!!!"

I still haven't gotten a timing light to set the timing for real, yet.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

well i duno if this helps but from my experince 2 turns of the main pully =1 of the dizzy
i duno how this comes into play but when i figured this i was 1 step closer to a running motor


what you can do is set the dizzy try start or somthin then rotate the main pully till leading is lined up and the arrow on the rotor is pointing to the drivers side(roundabout) take the dizzy out then simply rotate the main pully once and set the dizzy again


you do know how to set it correct right?
i allways noticed when i set the dizzy it would allways go 1 grove to much causing the timming on the light to be wayyyy off so if that arrow on the cab is pointing to the oil filter should be fine


disclamiar
the information above is not fact but experince of a sheep shagin kiwi
please refer to the new zealand dictonary if my lines of info trouble you

sign here...................


chris