Lowing a FB on the Cheap
12-06-12, 05:04 AM
#2
if you're asking if cutting the springs to lower the car the answer is no. accelerates the wear on the shocks and struts and is in general not good for the car.
coilovers are expensive and wcan require modifying the existing strut carrier that is welded to the spindle assembly. if you want the car lower, buy a set of Racking Beat lowering springs and new shocks and struts and it will turn out well.
coilovers are expensive and wcan require modifying the existing strut carrier that is welded to the spindle assembly. if you want the car lower, buy a set of Racking Beat lowering springs and new shocks and struts and it will turn out well.
12-06-12, 07:35 AM
#3
Waffles - hmmm good
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The RB springs won't get you that much lower because of the sag from your current old springs.
It will be maybe 1/2" or so. Not sure why you want it lower but stiffer I can see, as the RB
springs are progressive and stiffer so they make the car handle better.
If you just want to slam it, then check with your honda buddies, I think they just cut the springs.
The ReSpeed coilovers is the only way I've seen to adjust the height and get the handling as
well. If you can't pay, don't play.
It will be maybe 1/2" or so. Not sure why you want it lower but stiffer I can see, as the RB
springs are progressive and stiffer so they make the car handle better.
If you just want to slam it, then check with your honda buddies, I think they just cut the springs.
The ReSpeed coilovers is the only way I've seen to adjust the height and get the handling as
well. If you can't pay, don't play.
12-06-12, 10:58 AM
#5
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Just a heads up, the RB springs are not progressive rate springs as farrell said. I was in you're shoes when i was setting the suspension up on my 85 GS. I ended up going with the RB springs and Tokico blues, and i added the RB front sway bar later on. I bet i got a solid inch of drop even with saggy old springs. I daily the car during the summer months and do autocross events whenever i can as well. The car performs really well, the daily ride isn't back breaking and it handles like a dream on the track. Just my 2 cents
Last edited by 79RX7GUY; 12-06-12 at 10:59 AM. Reason: error
12-06-12, 11:52 AM
#7
I recently fitted Racing Beat springs onto mine, along with new Kayaba strut inserts. With shipping to the UK it wasn't "cheap" exactly. But it was a lot less than coilovers would have been (GAZ over here make an excellent set) plus having to re-weld the axle mounts. Otherwise the coilovers tend to catch on the inside of the strut turret due to the extra width over the shock alone.
The RB springs seem very good quality, and I'd say the rate is spot on. I wouldn't have minded a bit more of a drop on them, as has been pointed out, the 25-year old stockers were pretty saggy by now! This was the result;
Before
and after;
So, not exactly mad lowz but the cheapest sensible option I found. Cutting springs is just barbarism, it'll make the car handle like a turd and the shocks will **** themselves in very short order
The RB springs seem very good quality, and I'd say the rate is spot on. I wouldn't have minded a bit more of a drop on them, as has been pointed out, the 25-year old stockers were pretty saggy by now! This was the result;
Before
and after;
So, not exactly mad lowz but the cheapest sensible option I found. Cutting springs is just barbarism, it'll make the car handle like a turd and the shocks will **** themselves in very short order
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12-07-12, 09:58 AM
#15
Waffles - hmmm good
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Just a heads up, the RB springs are not progressive rate springs as farrell said. I was in you're shoes when i was setting the suspension up on my 85 GS. I ended up going with the RB springs and Tokico blues, and i added the RB front sway bar later on. I bet i got a solid inch of drop even with saggy old springs. I daily the car during the summer months and do autocross events whenever i can as well. The car performs really well, the daily ride isn't back breaking and it handles like a dream on the track. Just my 2 cents
12-07-12, 10:03 AM
#16
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i have the ground controls on my front with the respeed collars on the rear. With my setup, I wish I got a 2" longer spring because even at full lowered the springs arent even getting compressed (I can turn the sleeve by hand without jacking the car. The material for the ground control sleeve is cheapo aluminum and they can strip REALLY easy. That and the little allen nut is a major pita to loosen or tighten on when there is no spring tension.
I am currently looking for a complete stock FC front subframe, suspension, and steering parts to replace my respeed R&P kit. not a bad kit at all but it isnt what I want in my old age.
I am currently looking for a complete stock FC front subframe, suspension, and steering parts to replace my respeed R&P kit. not a bad kit at all but it isnt what I want in my old age.
12-07-12, 10:17 AM
#17
Surely there are more places to get cheap aftermarket lowering springs in glorious nation U, S and A than racing beat. They're just springs man! Look for 2nd hand ones if you're on a budget.
(edit) you're limited to how low you can go before cutting bumpstops, bottoming struts, and ruining geometry, hence the sensible ride height on the rb's and other brands.
(edit) you're limited to how low you can go before cutting bumpstops, bottoming struts, and ruining geometry, hence the sensible ride height on the rb's and other brands.
Last edited by WANKfactor; 12-07-12 at 10:21 AM.
12-07-12, 10:28 AM
#18
i have the ground controls on my front with the respeed collars on the rear. With my setup, I wish I got a 2" longer spring because even at full lowered the springs arent even getting compressed (I can turn the sleeve by hand without jacking the car. The material for the ground control sleeve is cheapo aluminum and they can strip REALLY easy. That and the little allen nut is a major pita to loosen or tighten on when there is no spring tension.
I am currently looking for a complete stock FC front subframe, suspension, and steering parts to replace my respeed R&P kit. not a bad kit at all but it isnt what I want in my old age.
I am currently looking for a complete stock FC front subframe, suspension, and steering parts to replace my respeed R&P kit. not a bad kit at all but it isnt what I want in my old age.
12-07-12, 10:33 AM
#19
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yeah i did cut the front bump stops. I know if I went up 1/2" there'd be weight on the springs but then my wheel rubs on my flares 
like I said, I want to start over with the front geometry hence me selling all my aftermarket crap for a bone stock setup (stock for FC anyway)
like I said, I want to start over with the front geometry hence me selling all my aftermarket crap for a bone stock setup (stock for FC anyway)
12-07-12, 10:42 AM
#20
yeah i did cut the front bump stops. I know if I went up 1/2" there'd be weight on the springs but then my wheel rubs on my flares
like I said, I want to start over with the front geometry hence me selling all my aftermarket crap for a bone stock setup (stock for FC anyway)
like I said, I want to start over with the front geometry hence me selling all my aftermarket crap for a bone stock setup (stock for FC anyway)
12-07-12, 10:53 AM
#21
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lol, if I woulda known how bad some of the "side effects" of a racing rack, i would never had gone this route. I still cant find anyone local who will trade. i think i would be getting the **** end if we did trade.
lets see
im getting
used subframe, used springs/shocks, used spindles, used CA's, etc
youd be getting $2k worth of aftermarket parts to sell like R&P kit, coil overs, BBK, huge freakin sway bar, etc
then Id still have to order themotor mounts to fit my LS1 and probably get the driveshaft cut and rewelded AGAIN.
I would like to just make a u-turn with out the rubbing, reversing, or gimping(try turning a shopping cart with the rear wheels to understand that feel)
lets see
im getting
used subframe, used springs/shocks, used spindles, used CA's, etc
youd be getting $2k worth of aftermarket parts to sell like R&P kit, coil overs, BBK, huge freakin sway bar, etc
then Id still have to order themotor mounts to fit my LS1 and probably get the driveshaft cut and rewelded AGAIN.
I would like to just make a u-turn with out the rubbing, reversing, or gimping(try turning a shopping cart with the rear wheels to understand that feel)
12-07-12, 11:42 AM
#22
That was my biggest complaint with the kit as well. You lost half your turning radius, it was a pain in the *** to align and after ~5000 miles the bushings on the "rear" control arms were shot, the steering boots cracked and torn and one of the steering u joints had some slight play...
I had the kit on both my FB's, went back to stock on the one and the FC subframe on the other and sold both kits at a big loss... I haven't looked back since
Anyway, sorry SDsa22c, we're getting off topic. As others have said, cutting the springs is not the way to go. The RB springs are nice. If you can find a set of the Eibach pro kit springs (discontinued in 2008ish) they are a bit lower.
I had the kit on both my FB's, went back to stock on the one and the FC subframe on the other and sold both kits at a big loss... I haven't looked back since
Anyway, sorry SDsa22c, we're getting off topic. As others have said, cutting the springs is not the way to go. The RB springs are nice. If you can find a set of the Eibach pro kit springs (discontinued in 2008ish) they are a bit lower.
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