Lowe's Price Hike? (and other inane ramblings...Restoration Update)
#1
Lowe's Price Hike? (and other inane ramblings...Restoration Update)
Hey All,
I called Lowe's Performance today (http://www.loweperformance.com/), for an OMP reseal kit.... The website said $10, and so did many people on the forum, but aparently it costs $21 now! Oh well, I'm getting it anyway... $21 is much better than a $2100 rebuild any day!
Jon's '84GS Restoration Update:
For those of you who've been following it, I'm getting pretty close to putting her on the road.. I'm aiming for September or next spring, depending on the timing of some things
I finally found a brake line that would fit from drum-to-drum in the rear of my '84GS. The one I had was stripped, and the one I got from Rx7Heaven had crushed threads *sigh*. A 60" long line with 3/16" fittings worked well enough, but it's a little shorter, so you have to be more conservative with the bends. I crimped the first one... grrr
Anyway, this means that the only thing left to do to finish the brakes is the e-brake line I snapped.. and bleeding of course. In total it's been a little over $1100 canadian bucks worth of parts, and all my own labour.
I picked up my KYB GR-2 shocks and struts, and ordered the Racing Beat Springs. Unfortunately RB is waiting on their order of the springs, which are manufactured in JAPAN! So it's going to be late august or early september before I get those.
When I get the suspension installed, I'm going to have my mechanic look at the carb. I've given up on trying to track down the problem now. If he can get it running, I'll take it for some good driving before putting it away for the winter. When winter hits (whether or not he fixes the carb) I'm gonna send it down to Sterling and Carl, given that I have the money. As much as I want it running now, I've decided that a rebuilt nikki is DEFINITELY worth it's weight in gold to me, since I don't have much cash for an aftermarket, and want a carb I can depend on.
And for the final system in my "Brakes, Carb, Suspension, Gas Tank" list of repairs... The gas tank! I found a local place that'll rebuild it for $150 Canadian, and the UPS guy brought my new fuel level sender this morning. Hopefully I can get the tank out this week... Has anyone got tips on how to do this? I haven't done it, and the Heynes (as usual) is pretty vague on the procedures. Any special tools or techniques needed?
Other than the major stuff, I've cleaned my K&N with the help of a cleaning kit I got (what a pain, I had to find a Canadian supplier because right now chemical products can't be shipped across the boarder!), and I've got new filters set to go in for fuel and oil. I just replaced the fuel filter last year, but I figure if I'm getting a cleaned, rebuilt tank, might as well change it again.
Let's hope I get the RB stuff mid-august, because then I *might* be able to get her running by September
Thanks for Reading My Rambling Novel Again!
Jon
I called Lowe's Performance today (http://www.loweperformance.com/), for an OMP reseal kit.... The website said $10, and so did many people on the forum, but aparently it costs $21 now! Oh well, I'm getting it anyway... $21 is much better than a $2100 rebuild any day!
Jon's '84GS Restoration Update:
For those of you who've been following it, I'm getting pretty close to putting her on the road.. I'm aiming for September or next spring, depending on the timing of some things
I finally found a brake line that would fit from drum-to-drum in the rear of my '84GS. The one I had was stripped, and the one I got from Rx7Heaven had crushed threads *sigh*. A 60" long line with 3/16" fittings worked well enough, but it's a little shorter, so you have to be more conservative with the bends. I crimped the first one... grrr
Anyway, this means that the only thing left to do to finish the brakes is the e-brake line I snapped.. and bleeding of course. In total it's been a little over $1100 canadian bucks worth of parts, and all my own labour.
I picked up my KYB GR-2 shocks and struts, and ordered the Racing Beat Springs. Unfortunately RB is waiting on their order of the springs, which are manufactured in JAPAN! So it's going to be late august or early september before I get those.
When I get the suspension installed, I'm going to have my mechanic look at the carb. I've given up on trying to track down the problem now. If he can get it running, I'll take it for some good driving before putting it away for the winter. When winter hits (whether or not he fixes the carb) I'm gonna send it down to Sterling and Carl, given that I have the money. As much as I want it running now, I've decided that a rebuilt nikki is DEFINITELY worth it's weight in gold to me, since I don't have much cash for an aftermarket, and want a carb I can depend on.
And for the final system in my "Brakes, Carb, Suspension, Gas Tank" list of repairs... The gas tank! I found a local place that'll rebuild it for $150 Canadian, and the UPS guy brought my new fuel level sender this morning. Hopefully I can get the tank out this week... Has anyone got tips on how to do this? I haven't done it, and the Heynes (as usual) is pretty vague on the procedures. Any special tools or techniques needed?
Other than the major stuff, I've cleaned my K&N with the help of a cleaning kit I got (what a pain, I had to find a Canadian supplier because right now chemical products can't be shipped across the boarder!), and I've got new filters set to go in for fuel and oil. I just replaced the fuel filter last year, but I figure if I'm getting a cleaned, rebuilt tank, might as well change it again.
Let's hope I get the RB stuff mid-august, because then I *might* be able to get her running by September
Thanks for Reading My Rambling Novel Again!
Jon
#3
hmm... didn't think of whether or not it was on there with a gasket.... *thinks*....
The kit I'm getting has all the washers and little rubber thingies inside.... see "the brown mound" restoration page for pics of what I'm talking about... I don't have it on hand right now..
Now where could I get that gasket :P
Jon
The kit I'm getting has all the washers and little rubber thingies inside.... see "the brown mound" restoration page for pics of what I'm talking about... I don't have it on hand right now..
Now where could I get that gasket :P
Jon
#4
Anytime baby!
If I remember correctly the OMP to engine gasket comes with the Lowes kit (yeah I paid $21 too, for a few miniscule pieces of rubber LOL). I reused the 4 hole crush washer, but I think I got new crush washers all around. Of course, since the car isn't starting I have no way of knowing if it all works, but I suspect it will be fine.
Right on.
PS: the web page is below, and in need of an update.
Right on.
PS: the web page is below, and in need of an update.
#6
Anytime baby!
Originally posted by vipernicus42
Well, I guess it's a race between you and I then
I'm aiming on Sept or Spring... You mike? What's left for yours?
Jon
Well, I guess it's a race between you and I then
I'm aiming on Sept or Spring... You mike? What's left for yours?
Jon
Then I've got suspension waiting to go in, springs, swaybar, shocks and struts. Probably bushings too.
Then it's just get it painted. Oh yeah new hatch carpet, dye the plastic, tint windows, A/C revamp.
Etc. etc. etc.
Right on.
#7
Heck Yes!
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
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Hey Jon,
Found a place that will refurbish you gas tank, cool. You will want to make sure as much of the crud from the refurbishing process is complete befor you install the tank. And keep a new fuel filter handy.
About 3 mounths after I installed my new feul tank I had to replace my fuel filter because it was cloged with the crap that was in the bottom of the tank from the referurb process.
Changing the tank is pritty straight forward. The drain plug may or may not come out so make sure your fuel is low.
Connecting the filler pipe can be alittle harry, and the low level sensor may trigger at a different level then it did befor. But all in all its not that bad.
Best of luck
matt
Found a place that will refurbish you gas tank, cool. You will want to make sure as much of the crud from the refurbishing process is complete befor you install the tank. And keep a new fuel filter handy.
About 3 mounths after I installed my new feul tank I had to replace my fuel filter because it was cloged with the crap that was in the bottom of the tank from the referurb process.
Changing the tank is pritty straight forward. The drain plug may or may not come out so make sure your fuel is low.
Connecting the filler pipe can be alittle harry, and the low level sensor may trigger at a different level then it did befor. But all in all its not that bad.
Best of luck
matt
Trending Topics
#8
Airflow is my life
Make sure you dont block the oil passages if you use sealant on the OMP.
This pic is from
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/EngineDamage.htm
#10
Yeah, you disconnect the OMP lines from the carb and place a "graduated container" (measuring cup, but smaller), to catch what falls out. Start the engine, add oil down the carb as necessary, have an assistant rev it at 2k for whatever time the Heynes tells you to. Measure.
It's all in the Heynes..
Jon
It's all in the Heynes..
Jon
#11
I read your email
Originally posted by bliffle
Is there a method for determining if the OMP is operating properly? I'm premixing MMO, so the point is moot (I believe) for me.
Is there a method for determining if the OMP is operating properly? I'm premixing MMO, so the point is moot (I believe) for me.
#12
Anybody know where the hell I can get "mineral spirits"??
Every time I think of it I picture a ghost in the shape of a piece of Quartz.... but I have yet to really find any around here. What's it used for primarily? (other than rebuilding OMPs).
Jon
Every time I think of it I picture a ghost in the shape of a piece of Quartz.... but I have yet to really find any around here. What's it used for primarily? (other than rebuilding OMPs).
Jon
#15
Airflow is my life
Mineral spirits can be found at the local paint-hardware store. Yes, its just paint thinner, look at the labels as "paint thinner" is a generic term that covers many chemicals.
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