Low Gas warning light flickers dimly
02-27-07, 07:33 PM
#1
7-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: No. Virginia, USA
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Low Gas warning light flickers dimly
Well, I was able to install my replacement gas tank this morning just right. FINALLY.
Anyways, with this replacement tank, I also purchased a brand new fuel level sending unit. However, the original pigtail for the unit was heavily corroded from the last one and one of the prongs of the unit got stuck in the pigtail. so, I ended up taking the three wires and sticking on a female connector on each end and just sticking each one on the 3 prongs.
_
- |
Top prong - Yellow/blue stripe
Bottom prong - Yellow
Vertical prong - Black
As far as I know, that's how the original one was. Anyways, my Low Gas warning light (the one that lights up when you reach 2.6 gallons) flickers dimly now. I notice this because I drove back home tonight in the dark, so I saw it. The thing is that I have 1/4 tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it's a loose connection. Also, when I first drove the car after final install, that light would bright up normally (still 1/4 tank of gas) when I would get on the brakes. But, then after stopping at a place and then driving back, I didn't notice it. However, that could've been because it was doing the "dimly flickering" bit in the daylight and I didn't see it.
I'm wondering if I should get a replacement pigtail for the sending unit. Could this be a loose or bad connection?
Anyways, with this replacement tank, I also purchased a brand new fuel level sending unit. However, the original pigtail for the unit was heavily corroded from the last one and one of the prongs of the unit got stuck in the pigtail. so, I ended up taking the three wires and sticking on a female connector on each end and just sticking each one on the 3 prongs.
_
- |
Top prong - Yellow/blue stripe
Bottom prong - Yellow
Vertical prong - Black
As far as I know, that's how the original one was. Anyways, my Low Gas warning light (the one that lights up when you reach 2.6 gallons) flickers dimly now. I notice this because I drove back home tonight in the dark, so I saw it. The thing is that I have 1/4 tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it's a loose connection. Also, when I first drove the car after final install, that light would bright up normally (still 1/4 tank of gas) when I would get on the brakes. But, then after stopping at a place and then driving back, I didn't notice it. However, that could've been because it was doing the "dimly flickering" bit in the daylight and I didn't see it.
I'm wondering if I should get a replacement pigtail for the sending unit. Could this be a loose or bad connection?
02-27-07, 08:01 PM
#2
Since the sending unit relies on a resistance reading it is possible that a poor connection will affect the correct reading. As long as the sender has been installed in the correct posistion I would lean towards the connections. (Taking for granted that the new sender is calibrated correctly).
02-27-07, 08:18 PM
#3
7-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: No. Virginia, USA
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New sender is from the dealer and so far it reads true. A lot better than my old one, which was off by half a 1/4. So, a full tank of gas meant that needle was between the full mark and the 3/4 mark. This new one seems to be fine, on the level, anyways.
I may have to look into finding a replacement pigtail from a guy here locally.
I may have to look into finding a replacement pigtail from a guy here locally.
02-27-07, 08:19 PM
#4
FB+FC=F-ME
Keep driving, and see if it gets brighter as the level goes down more.
I often start to see a little flicker of light when I get near 1/4.As the level gets lower,it will get brighter until its on solid,just below 1/8 full.
Its hardly a scientific way of telling you your low on fuel,its just kinda there for people who dont ever look at their gauges......
I often start to see a little flicker of light when I get near 1/4.As the level gets lower,it will get brighter until its on solid,just below 1/8 full.
Its hardly a scientific way of telling you your low on fuel,its just kinda there for people who dont ever look at their gauges......
02-27-07, 08:52 PM
#6
7-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: No. Virginia, USA
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Keep driving, and see if it gets brighter as the level goes down more.
I often start to see a little flicker of light when I get near 1/4.As the level gets lower,it will get brighter until its on solid,just below 1/8 full.
Its hardly a scientific way of telling you your low on fuel,its just kinda there for people who dont ever look at their gauges......
I often start to see a little flicker of light when I get near 1/4.As the level gets lower,it will get brighter until its on solid,just below 1/8 full.
Its hardly a scientific way of telling you your low on fuel,its just kinda there for people who dont ever look at their gauges......
Well, when I had my old, read: original, parts in, that light NEVER came on and I've taken that needle down low. If this is how the item should be working, then I guess I have nothing to worry about then?
Also, is it normal for that gauge to take a couple seconds before it tells you how much is left in the tank? My original stuff the needle would move the instant power was fed into the car (turn the key into On). Now, you have to wait a couple seconds for it to move. My friend said it's probably normal, because his truck does that, too, and it's a new Ford Ranger.
02-27-07, 09:55 PM
#7
90' triples? been there*)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Leesburg, Fl
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 85 FB
Well, when I had my old, read: original, parts in, that light NEVER came on and I've taken that needle down low. If this is how the item should be working, then I guess I have nothing to worry about then?
Also, is it normal for that gauge to take a couple seconds before it tells you how much is left in the tank? My original stuff the needle would move the instant power was fed into the car (turn the key into On). Now, you have to wait a couple seconds for it to move. My friend said it's probably normal, because his truck does that, too, and it's a new Ford Ranger.
Also, is it normal for that gauge to take a couple seconds before it tells you how much is left in the tank? My original stuff the needle would move the instant power was fed into the car (turn the key into On). Now, you have to wait a couple seconds for it to move. My friend said it's probably normal, because his truck does that, too, and it's a new Ford Ranger.
And being a licensed electrician I can tell you that being that you're working w/low-voltage the cleanliness of the connectors and a nice tight fit(no jerry-rigged stuff)is important, could put some De-Ox on the connection for good continuity.
Now if all my automotive problems were electrical I'd be good...but there not.
How much was the sending unit? I need a new one.
Trending Topics
02-27-07, 10:11 PM
#8
7-less
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: No. Virginia, USA
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The dealer gave me a good deal for it, for like $128 after taxes, altho it goes for about $137 after taxes I believe.
And, I use dielectric grease for all my electrical connections. The guy that's in my area has a spare pigtail connector, so I'll see about getting around to working on that. Maybe Steve is right and it's not abnormal for it to be behaving the way it is. As I said before, the original stuff was badly corroded on the connector. Bad enough to where removing the pigtail ended up breaking one of the prongs and left inside the connector.
And, I use dielectric grease for all my electrical connections. The guy that's in my area has a spare pigtail connector, so I'll see about getting around to working on that. Maybe Steve is right and it's not abnormal for it to be behaving the way it is. As I said before, the original stuff was badly corroded on the connector. Bad enough to where removing the pigtail ended up breaking one of the prongs and left inside the connector.
02-27-07, 10:50 PM
#9
Originally Posted by 85 FB
The dealer gave me a good deal for it, for like $128 after taxes, altho it goes for about $137 after taxes I believe.
And, I use dielectric grease for all my electrical connections. The guy that's in my area has a spare pigtail connector, so I'll see about getting around to working on that. Maybe Steve is right and it's not abnormal for it to be behaving the way it is. As I said before, the original stuff was badly corroded on the connector. Bad enough to where removing the pigtail ended up breaking one of the prongs and left inside the connector.
And, I use dielectric grease for all my electrical connections. The guy that's in my area has a spare pigtail connector, so I'll see about getting around to working on that. Maybe Steve is right and it's not abnormal for it to be behaving the way it is. As I said before, the original stuff was badly corroded on the connector. Bad enough to where removing the pigtail ended up breaking one of the prongs and left inside the connector.
02-27-07, 11:00 PM
#10
FB+FC=F-ME
My orginal low fuel light never worked at all.
I only actually got any life out of it,after I switched to the FC intank pump setup.Im actually utilizing the FC low fuel light sensor on the pump assembely.Its wired to the FB sending unit harness,the stock 1st gen gauge sender is still hooked up and working.
My light coming on at about 1/4 might be a little premature, since the FC tank is a different shape than the FB tank its installed in now.But still,the low flickering followed by a full bright indicator,seems to be its "normal" modus operandi.
I only actually got any life out of it,after I switched to the FC intank pump setup.Im actually utilizing the FC low fuel light sensor on the pump assembely.Its wired to the FB sending unit harness,the stock 1st gen gauge sender is still hooked up and working.
My light coming on at about 1/4 might be a little premature, since the FC tank is a different shape than the FB tank its installed in now.But still,the low flickering followed by a full bright indicator,seems to be its "normal" modus operandi.
02-27-07, 11:09 PM
#11
Normally the light should start to come on when there is approx 2 gallons left in the tank. It may flicker somewhat before that if you are going up and down hills. General rule is 1/8 f a tank it should start to come on. A 1/4 tank is approx 4.2 gallons.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
08-23-15 09:28 AM