so i got my 83 compression tested today and the apex seals on the rear rotar are shot...there is no compression on it...now i know i could rebuild the entire motor but couldnt i just replace the seals...my uncle says he could get the parts/seals for about 200 bucks...also does anyone know of any mechanics that can and or will do this in wisconsin...

also how can i tell what sub-model my rex is if it doesnt have any badges clarifying that.
thanks for any and all help


---Sam

 

 

i believe it's only down to s, gs, or gsl......is the only difference between gs and s that the gs has a sunroof basically?...this is a harder question than i thought lol.

 

The 200$ kit will only come with soft seals. This will not solve your problem, as you will just reuse the apex seals you already have. Best to just get a master kit from Mazda.

 

how much would that be(ballpark)and is there an online site that sells them

 

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...cat=590&page=1
would this work

 

the only way to know what you need is to take the engine apart and measure everything to see if it is in spec or not

 

well the car runs good, its just slow, it doesnt overheat and the oil pressure is always good.

 

Yes that would work, I would opt for their Master Rebuild Kit, as if you just bought the hard seals you would still need the soft seals.

 

Also, although you didnt give us any info on the age of motor. There are alternatives.

Has the motor been sitting/last time if was driven.

Could the seals be stuck and not gone.

If you do a rebuild are you prepared to try and find housings if yours are shot. How about rotors (broken apex usually means broken **** inside)

All things to consider.

 

He will have to replace the housings if he tears it down, unless his motor has very very few miles...

 

I know this but does he?

 

110k original...was parked and not run for 5 years

 

i would recommend doing the ATF/MMO/seafoam thing to see if by some chance your seals are just stuck, it'll save you some money if they are just stuck.

 

how can the car run good if you say it has no compression on 1 rotor.......

 

i know, the guy at the dealer said its a dream that it runs...

 

+1 on the seafoam treatment. Let it soak for a couple days. Ray Green has a thread on this a month or 2 ago. He thought his engine was toast and it was just a stuck seal

 

+1 on seafoam. I tore down one of Ray's old engines and it had barely any carbon in it at all!

 

No sunroof means it's an S model, lightest model for each year. It can't have zero compression on the rear rotor and run good, just doesn't work that way. Add another vote for seafoam, which I seem to remember suggesting once before to you.

The kit you listed is fine for the internals, but you'll need a gasket kit too, they run around 200, unless you can fid a Felpro kit which run less, but I've never used one so I can't say if everything needed comes in the kit.

 

I favor a cautious approach. Try the MMO treatment first. MMO should dissolve/loosen oil residue buildup that may cause stuck seals, and it's pretty harmless when it goes through the engine, even if it's bearing debris and goo. Repeat if necessary. If that doesn't do it, try seafoam. I'd hold off on ATF because it seems so radical and I'd worry about the bearings and gears in the engine as well as the walls of the combustion chambers.

 

can anyone give me step by step instructions on the seafoam...i got 3 cans today and i have a general conception on how to do it but i dont want to screw anything up...pics would be great also

 

alright, you can either put it in the gas tank: get about 1/8th of gas left in the tank, pour the whole can in the tank, then go for a ride, until you've burnt most of it, then go refill, it will be very very very smoky, so make sure you keep a can with you in case you get pulled over.

2)(what i recommend since your case seems severe) turn the car on and use a vacuum hose to suck in the seafoam. or take the plugs off and use something to squirt it in the engine. let it soak for about a day or two, then crank. let it iddle until it stops smoking.

hopefully that will fix it

 

thank you very much...although there is one more thing, where is the vacuum line and where do i disconnect it.

 

i disconnected the cruise control from the carb (there's a nipple right above the air/fuel mix screw, that's where the cruise control goes) then i used a small rubber hose and attached it to the nipple and inserted the other end in the can. ... i'm sure you can use your cruise control hose if you don't have one, just make sure all the liquid inside the hose is gone before you connect it back to the C.C. just for safety.

i don't have pics anymore or i would show you. (you could also slowly pour it through the carb, but it takes a lot longer cuz you gotta be careful not to put too much or it'll stall the car)

 

oooo, mine doesnt have ps