Ok, So I'm redoing my interior and everything is out my car right now so all of my wires are easy to reach but I'm having a hell of a time getting this to work.

I was driving with everything out becuase it's still my daily driver. And some **** stopped working. My hatch openner and gas tank one stopped but I replaced the fuses and fixed that. I also replaced the fuses under the hood with the square ones, 20/50/20.

When I use my blinkers and some other stuff it dims my lights and my battery gauge fluctuates.

My Driver's side door when openend doesn't activate the upper dome light, but the passenger one does.

My temperature gauge isn't raeding anything, I disconnected it from the nipple under the fuel filter and cleaned it and put it back on and nothing happenened.

My Rev buzzer isn't working, but it never has one. Do I not have one? I have an 82 gsl.

My headlights turn on but they won't go down.

My airconditioner also isn't working.

I can get pictures of wiring if you guys want, but I just dont know what to take pictures of, there is 1000 million billion wires.

 

A few of my fuses blew and I replaced them, the opening fuse and the window fuse, so that stuff works now. But a lot of **** is giving me trouble.

 

Start checking for shorted wires under the dash. It could be a few different things, bad relays, wires melted together, bad connections... Best advice I can give you is get a multimeter and wiring diagrams and start checking all the wires at the fuse box under the dash.

 

 

 

When I use my blinkers and some other stuff it dims my lights and my battery gauge fluctuates.
Probably the alternator. They are old and very underpowered.


My Driver's side door when openend doesn't activate the upper dome light, but the passenger one does.
Probably the switch down near the rocker panel. Try flicking it with your finger and see if it starts to work.

My temperature gauge isn't raeding anything, I disconnected it from the nipple under the fuel filter and cleaned it and put it back on and nothing happenened.
As per the Haynes manual "Disconnect the electrical coupler at the water temp sensor. Connect an ohmmeter to the coupler connection coming from the sensor and check the ohm reading. With the engine cold, the reading should be between 105 and 233 ohms. Warm up the eninge ot normal operating temp and take another reading. The reading should be in then neighborhood of 20 to 50 ohms. If not, replace the sensor. If the readings are normal, check the gauge."

Dont' know about the rev buzzer, be glad it doesn't work.

For the headlights, I would check to see if I had 12V to the motors. If not, backtrack until you find the problem. The manual would be a great deal of help here.

A/C could be a zillion reasons. Sorry.

 

I have a brand new alternator. Everything in my car worked properly, then it just stopped working. My friend moved some wires. I don't know what happenend.

And not the AC, the whole entire fan and stuff doesn't activate.

 

Those multicolored wires I found under my seat and aren't connected to anything on either ends.

I tried to turn that **** that manually lowers my headlights and it just started spinning back up and scared the **** out of me.

 

Are u driving your around like this? or is this before u put it all back together. I just did this with my car 2 days ago. I found that if some the things like light dimmer (lights dont go down)arent hooked up certain circuit loops arent complete therefore some things wont work. That plug your holding next to the blower/right speaker... conects to the logicon..(well on my gsl-se it does)

 

well, that switch that "manually lowers" the lights actually selects between "auto" and "always up" as a winter, dont get stuck feature.
set it to the other setting and the lights will stay down when off, up when on. if the switch is disconnected, the lights will come up then never go down (until switch is reconnected)
furthermore, when power is lost to the headligght system and then it is re-energized, the lights WILL autoset.. they will go up, then down all by themselves.. creepy, but its a means of calibration i think.

my voltmeter flickers as well when i hit the siggies.. and i have a supra alternator installed (writeup later boys - no worries). its not the alternators fault so much as its the wiring to the gauge cluster.. the signal indicators inside the gauge cluster draw enough current to create a local voltage drop in the cluster, where the gauge is. no worries there.

rev buzzer: never knew they came with one until someone told me.. my 83 never has worked.
driver side illumination sw: take off the switch (two phillips screws), use some alcohol based cleaner (carb/tb/brake) to spray the rustproofing gunk off it, hit with some wd40 and reinstall.. make sure the screws, screw landings and the threads in the body are free of rust (it grounds through those screws)

as for the blower motor, check your fusible link install twice, nay: three times. thats where ALL the power comes through... UUBER critical you do not mess thisone up.

---edit----
the wires under your seats are for the clarior sound system amplifiers.. one is under the driver seat, the other is behind the driver under the cargo compartment...that fills with water.

 

The thing under the oil filter is the oil press sensor, the water temp is on the water pump housing, the lights would be a relay issue (there are 2 one for up another for down) the air box could be a dead blower motor (just happened to a friend in her car), the fluxuations in electrical system w/ blinker on makes me think your alt is going (mine did the same as it went out)

 

The temp sensor for the gauge is below the oil filter tower.

 

The thing is everything worked perfectly (except the buzzer) before I had it all taken out. And I have new Box Style fusible links under the hood and the manual **** on the headlights automatically go back as i start to turn it.

 

I want my lights to go down. One of the positive wires from my power window switches hit some metal on the chasis i heard it pop a fuse, and after that my fan for my ac/heat and lights stopped working

 

Where are the relays for the headlights?

 

I don't think your car has a rev limit buzzer..my 82 GSL dosen't...as for the remainder of your electrical problems..be sure that you have correctly reconnected all of the switches from the center console that you disconnected when you removed the center console and dash, as well as any other switches, contacts, etc. Once you have reconnected all of the things you removed, most of your ploblems will go away. Most of the circuits in your 7 need to have the switches intact to complete the circuit. Check the manual headlight switch from the center console to be sure the right switch is plugged into the correct connector. Once you get that one right, your headlights will go up and down normally.
The above is true expecially if as you said, that everything worked correctly before you started removing things.