loose head bolts?
#1
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loose head bolts?
I saw some postings where people used 4-108mm wheels and used loose head bolts.I hear that you only want to use the steel ones being the copper ones break.What is a loose head bolt and where can I find some..Thanks!!!
Last edited by jedknight01; 05-05-05 at 12:43 PM.
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#8
Originally Posted by trochoid
What ever you do with these wheels, make sure the rims are hub centric. If not, you will have diveability and safety issues.
I got my bolts at the local wheelshoop, at first i got ones with copper heads (OK, i dont know what you guys call them, so loose head bolts is a translation from Norwegian) and broke those. Then i got some with steel heads. These are still working for me.
I`ll have to bring my camera down to the workshop tomorrow, and take some pics of the bolts!
#9
Hello again!
I finally dug up a picture of the "loose head bolts" i was talking about when using 4*108 rims. Like previosly stated, using these bolts, requires the use of a new center ring that in fact makes the rim hub centric.
Here are the bolts:
I dont know if you can see it, but the copper coloured part, is not "stuck" to the bolt itself. If further explanation is wanted, send me a PM and ill try to explain the best i can.
Perhaps someone else, located in the states can tell everybody the american word for these bolts? I only know the norwegian word, and "loose head bolt" is just a looooose translation!
Please excuse my bad sense of humor on the last remark there!!
I finally dug up a picture of the "loose head bolts" i was talking about when using 4*108 rims. Like previosly stated, using these bolts, requires the use of a new center ring that in fact makes the rim hub centric.
Here are the bolts:
I dont know if you can see it, but the copper coloured part, is not "stuck" to the bolt itself. If further explanation is wanted, send me a PM and ill try to explain the best i can.
Perhaps someone else, located in the states can tell everybody the american word for these bolts? I only know the norwegian word, and "loose head bolt" is just a looooose translation!
Please excuse my bad sense of humor on the last remark there!!
#14
Savanna Rx-7
Originally Posted by Anex 570
Complete ******* junk..
No idiot,
its designed so that the lug bolt itself does not gouge the wheels softer aluminum surface. Becasue the top is "loose" and rotates, the softer brass/bronze portion sticks to the wheel, and the steel lug bolt tightens against it gougeing the brass/bronze part vice the wheel.
Think before you speak
kenn
#16
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
No idiot,
its designed so that the lug bolt itself does not gouge the wheels softer aluminum surface. Becasue the top is "loose" and rotates, the softer brass/bronze portion sticks to the wheel, and the steel lug bolt tightens against it gougeing the brass/bronze part vice the wheel.
Think before you speak
kenn
its designed so that the lug bolt itself does not gouge the wheels softer aluminum surface. Becasue the top is "loose" and rotates, the softer brass/bronze portion sticks to the wheel, and the steel lug bolt tightens against it gougeing the brass/bronze part vice the wheel.
Think before you speak
kenn
#17
Thanks Kenn, i can vouch for that.
I got my rings at the local dealer, but.. They are not a perfect fit. Therefore i am having new rings machined for the rims, so that they will fit perfectly! I would guess that any machine shop could make them for you, just bring along the car and a rim.
Any good shop should be able to do this at a fair price.
I got my rings at the local dealer, but.. They are not a perfect fit. Therefore i am having new rings machined for the rims, so that they will fit perfectly! I would guess that any machine shop could make them for you, just bring along the car and a rim.
Any good shop should be able to do this at a fair price.
#19
Old [Sch|F]ool
Why not just remachine the 4 1/4" wheels to 110mm?
It shouldn't be too difficult to make a jig to do this. Then you don't have to muck around with hubcentric spacers and other crap. Only have to go one MM outboard, on a 60 degree taper this means only a little bit deeper.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make a jig to do this. Then you don't have to muck around with hubcentric spacers and other crap. Only have to go one MM outboard, on a 60 degree taper this means only a little bit deeper.
#21
Old [Sch|F]ool
Most trucks don't even have tapered or shanked lug nuts, and are only loosely hubcentric. You just sorta bolt the wheel on and where it goes, it goes.
Scared the crap out of me the first time I encountered it, but it works well enough. Really, it's the tension applied by the lug bolts/nuts that holds teh wheel in place, any taper or piloting is only there to put the wheel in place before they are tightened down. Once tight, the taper or pilot does exactly *dick*.
Scared the crap out of me the first time I encountered it, but it works well enough. Really, it's the tension applied by the lug bolts/nuts that holds teh wheel in place, any taper or piloting is only there to put the wheel in place before they are tightened down. Once tight, the taper or pilot does exactly *dick*.
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