I saw some postings where people used 4-108mm wheels and used loose head bolts.I hear that you only want to use the steel ones being the copper ones break.What is a loose head bolt and where can I find some..Thanks!!!

 

i'd like to know too....

the thread was started by "mortenf" (not sure on spelling) who runs 16" 108mm wheels on his 1st gen.

 

Bump

 

anyone?

 

Rotary's got heads ?

 

They re talking about wheels i think, rotaries dont have a head on the motor.

 

What ever you do with these wheels, make sure the rims are hub centric. If not, you will have diveability and safety issues.

 

Yes indeed! I dont know if i forgot to mention it before, but you will need a new center ring that ensures that the rim is hub centric!

I got my bolts at the local wheelshoop, at first i got ones with copper heads (OK, i dont know what you guys call them, so loose head bolts is a translation from Norwegian) and broke those. Then i got some with steel heads. These are still working for me.

I`ll have to bring my camera down to the workshop tomorrow, and take some pics of the bolts!

 

Hello again!

I finally dug up a picture of the "loose head bolts" i was talking about when using 4*108 rims. Like previosly stated, using these bolts, requires the use of a new center ring that in fact makes the rim hub centric.

Here are the bolts:



I dont know if you can see it, but the copper coloured part, is not "stuck" to the bolt itself. If further explanation is wanted, send me a PM and ill try to explain the best i can.

Perhaps someone else, located in the states can tell everybody the american word for these bolts? I only know the norwegian word, and "loose head bolt" is just a looooose translation!


Please excuse my bad sense of humor on the last remark there!!

 

Lug Bolt.

 

I know is a lug bolt, but its a lug bolt with loose head! What do you call it?

 

A loose headed lug bolt?

 

Complete ******* junk..

 

No idiot,

its designed so that the lug bolt itself does not gouge the wheels softer aluminum surface. Becasue the top is "loose" and rotates, the softer brass/bronze portion sticks to the wheel, and the steel lug bolt tightens against it gougeing the brass/bronze part vice the wheel.

Think before you speak

kenn

 

where would someone get the hub centric rings?

 

I just hate the lug bolts all together. I think its great they designed a better version of it though.

 

Thanks Kenn, i can vouch for that.

I got my rings at the local dealer, but.. They are not a perfect fit. Therefore i am having new rings machined for the rims, so that they will fit perfectly! I would guess that any machine shop could make them for you, just bring along the car and a rim.

Any good shop should be able to do this at a fair price.

 

Where would you get some of those bolts? Any place on the internet? Thanks.


Jeff

 

Why not just remachine the 4 1/4" wheels to 110mm?

It shouldn't be too difficult to make a jig to do this. Then you don't have to muck around with hubcentric spacers and other crap. Only have to go one MM outboard, on a 60 degree taper this means only a little bit deeper.

 

This is quite possibly the WORST idea I've ever heard on this forum, and I've heard some real doozies.

 

Most trucks don't even have tapered or shanked lug nuts, and are only loosely hubcentric. You just sorta bolt the wheel on and where it goes, it goes.

Scared the crap out of me the first time I encountered it, but it works well enough. Really, it's the tension applied by the lug bolts/nuts that holds teh wheel in place, any taper or piloting is only there to put the wheel in place before they are tightened down. Once tight, the taper or pilot does exactly *dick*.

 

Let me clarify: I was talking about the original idea.