Hey guys,
I'm scouting for a radiator for my project. As some as you know im shooting for 400 rwhp from a TII motor.

I would like to try and retain the stock radiator mounting brackets as they have already been modified to allow my intercooler to sit properly in place. I initally was thinking of going with the ISCracing radiator (http://www.iscracing.net/1stgenparts.htm) but I see that the mounts for it come with the radiator in order to mount the rad back further.

What kind of rad's are you other turbo guys using and what modifications were needed in order to fit the rad in the stock location? I know some are using the stock rad, but since im stepping the horsepower up several notches I would like to stay on the safe side and do it properly the first time.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Dan_s_young

 

Uh... Stock? So far good for 507rwhp in South Florida weather...

Although there are some nice and expensive Mazdaracing ones I wouldn't mind intalling.

 

Try www.pwr.com.au. They make direct replacements and the quality is second to none.

 

2nd gen section has quite a bit on aluminum rads, Dan. You might also look into doing a v-mount intercooler set up. There might be enough room with the kit. I still haven't decided which way I want to go yet.

 

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/cooling.html

 

where can i find those?
is it a kit made for FCs that'll have to be modified for an FB?

 

FWIW, ISC sells two first gen radiators. The picture I believe you're refering to is of their really big sucker that requires different mounting. They also sell a smaller version of that (19x22) that has wings off the sides so you can use the stock mounts. I doubt you'd run out of cooling with a 19x22 two pass crossflow on the street.

 

I use a HOWE 19x22 dual pass aluminum radiator with 35psi cap on the 12aJbridge. Bolts to stock radiator mounting but u have to drill the holes in the radiator support L brackets.

Car is Track only 9400rpms. It cools beautifully. On cool days ,70*F ambient I have to duct tape over the rad cause it gets below 160*F ON the track 9400rpms. On 100*F+ days it don't overheat.

Oil cooling is another issue....

 

Good to know my existing radiator is only a few years old, if the stock one can handle your car it certainly will be able to handle my 250hp build.

 

Check with AWR racing they sell the Ron Davis bolt in.

 

In the end, I just drew up what I wanted and sent it to 5 American fabricators of aluminum radiators and then went with the guy that had the best customer support, phone and Email, and price...lowest was $550, the highest was 4 figures which is ridiculous.

Scott Attig from Wizard Cooling set me up with this based on my detailed drawings....I have to drill the ears to mount it, but everything else screws in where it's supposed to...

The view of the back side...




The view from the front side...




Fuzzy close up of the bottom outlet tube, why it was an $$$ proposition...




Logo stamped in top coolant tank...




Sucker is going into Furious this weekend...

 

Very nice.

 

Here's mine. Modified to fit 1st gens, RX-2 and RX-3. Also modified for under the radiator oil cooler

 

Mine is PWR unit. Excellent welds and good thick core

 

Is that a Griffin?

 

Where are the coolant level and temperature sensor bungs?

I wanted all of the factory sensors operational and in the same place so it would be an easy bolt in once the holes were drilled on the "ears" to mount it...if you look, you'll even see the ledge on the front side of the radiator so I can mount the factory shroud...

 

Waste of money. Did you not just read that DF is running 500 RWHP with the stock 3 core SE radiator in FLORIDA.... I never had an issue with mine either, and I was running a 12a 2 core rad with my turbo blowthrough ported S513BT. And copper disipates heat almost twice as efficialtly as aluminum...

 

Here's a brief run down on why you wasted your time with your uninformed reply...

• The radiator is noticeably lighter than the stock two row radiator, though weight on a car, especially on the front end, is prolly something you don't worry about.
• Despite it being an aftermarket aluminum radiator, I don't have to worry about buying different radiator hoses.
• Having a solid aluminum radiator (no epoxy) means it will last virtually FOREVER and never corrode. Keep on buying your corroding stock radiators while I
• Being aluminum, I've just taken out a big source of disparate metals from the cooling system, reducing the "dissolving electrolytic" effect of said coolant.
• With a bigger capacity of coolant, the need to replace that coolant is reduced as far as maintenance windows go.
• When it comes time to replace that coolant, I don't have to remove the lower radiator hose (or cobble up some Prestone conversion kit for the heater hose) to do so.
• Being larger....did I mention it was still lighter?.....it DOES NOT MATTER that copper is more efficient than Al in heat transfer. The sheer increase in SURFACE AREA of the radiator simply blows that fact into the weeds...the aluminum radiator will do the job better than the stock radiator.

Lastly, but not leastly, I live in Texas, not Florida or, God forbid, Seattle, WA (been there, done that, came back)......I don't recall Florida having 36 consecutive days of 101+ degrees Fahrenheit temps during the Summer. Or hitting 107 degrees, though I may be wrong, so feel free to correct me on that one.



Why don't you work on getting my money from Gregs, instead....

 

Its an AFCO