vy_MR2

iTrader: (1)

I have a Mazdaspeed FC short shifter which I'm planning to put in my GSL-SE. Does anyone know how to remove the lower rubber shift boot? I took off the top round one and can access the 3 10mm bolts by sliding the lower boot to the side.It spans past the shifter. I'm not sure if removal the radio bezel then removing the 5 bolts will allow the trim to be removed. I've tried the search feature but the majority of what I'm finding is related to the pre '84 models.
Thanks

Update:

After watching videos on the earlier RX7s, I got the short shifter installed. It feels great. Looks nice with a Mazdaspeed shift **** on it as well. Only issue now is the metal shank that was always pressed against the maroon shift **** wont fit. Are there any alternatives to this or just live with out?

LongDuck

You can replace that big rubber boot without removing anything but the shifter surround. I've done it. There are 5x 10mm bolts holding the metal plate over the top of that boot, and they can all be reached with some small sockets and box-end wrenches. It will be a battle of wills to get the new boot lined up for all 5 bolts and the metal plate to fit, just be patient. Also, be careful with the rubber boot atop that, as it's easily torn and any breaks or tears will let noise in through there - and a LOT of noise comes through. Lube the boots on reassembly with brake caliper grease safe for rubber parts.

While you're installing the short-shifter, take the time to pour 2-3oz of 90w gear oil down the shift rod hole. It dries out over time and there should be some in there to lubricate the linkage, making shifts easier. Let us know how it turns out; Mazdatrix seems to have mixed results with their kit. Might want to have new upper and lower plastic rings ready to install to help with rattle concerns.

vy_MR2

iTrader: (1)

I found a crack in middle boot near the opening the shifter goes through. With the round rubber boot slide over it I think it will be ok until I eventually tackle replacing the middle boot. I think I'll remove radio bezel to do it as the top bolt seems impossible to get to. I put in 1 ounce or so. The oil came to the top of the socket where the ball goes in. I'm not sure how much is needed but my understanding was there is no need to have any more fluid that some at the ball. I put in new lower ring and washer and kept the upper ring on the shifter as I don't have a replacement M513 plate for the shifter. I don't feel like cutting the rubber until then to change the upper ring and washer. The Mazdaspeed shifter hopefully won't suffer from rattling etc. I'll know more tomorrow. I'd like to think the quality control should be good for a Mazda product.

vy_MR2

iTrader: (1)

The shifting is excellent. There was hardly any rattling with only the inner boot on. However today the rattling increased a little and I noticed that 1st and 2nd no longer return to the neutral position. I took the shifter out and the return spring is in tact. I was thinking maybe it broke. I put it back together and same thing. I'm not sure what is going on. Somehow the lower ball is no longer engaged with the spring.

cmnork

Struggling with this today. I removed all 5 of the bolts from the metal retaining plate, but the plate won't budge... Do you just have to lift it up and slip the rubber out? Or should I be able to pull up the metal plate out once all the bolts are out?

My middle boot is badly ripped and I'd like to replace it. Also, is there a rubber piece that just floats on top of this? Or is it just the one with the 3 screws that pokes through?

LongDuck

It's been mounted there for over 30yrs, so expect that it's taken a set and won't want to budge. Once the 5 bolts are free from holding the plate down, you can wiggle the plate around and get it out of the shifter hole in the console. Note that the shifter is best to be removed while doing this, just to give you room to work. It's a tight fit, and you'll want to go slowly so you don't rip the boots. Once the plate and old boot are out, put the new boot in place, put the plate over it, and then start fishing formthe holes for,the bolts. This took me almost an hour, because inevitably, the rubber boot will want to shift around, making it hard to get all the bolts started. This big rubber boot is the most important one for sound and vibration control, so take your time and do it right.

The boots are setup so that the rubber at the top of the shifter friction fits over the top of the big rubber boot. Adding some rubber safe grease to this boot makes future disassembly much easier. All of the boots installed help immensely to cut down on noise inside the car. I was amazed what a difference those boots make when I replaced them during my last clutch work.

vy_MR2

iTrader: (1)

Should there be a bushing that the lower ball pops into below the spring in the turret? It looks like that bushing started being used in the S5 RX7s.