I'm looking for the long hose that goes through the engine bay around the back of the engine, and connects to the block. The other end goes to the heater core I guess, since it ends right next to the other from the lower rad hose T. Is there a part number for this that I can cross. I work at a national chain, but they don't show it. I need to get it locally, because we're about to get an icy blast the day after I do the work on the car. The same day I will be taking it in for inspection. In other words, no time for ordering. Do any of the other chains besides Carquest stock this hose?. I could use a straight piece, a coupler, and another bent hose like the other HC outlet.

I think ALL of my hoses are originals, lol. Stands to reason, all my marker and tail light bulbs are originals as well.

 

It's a dealer only hose. Otherwise you will have to see if you can get one with 2 90degree angles, 1 at each end or cut out the portion that is bad for now and put a connector inbetween.

 

Hmm. At work we have a new product that you put around heater hoses etc. You then can put a bend into it. I will either do that, or get another like the other side and splice it to straight piece for the rest of the way. Thanks for the info.

Not going to pay the inevitable $50 dollar or more dealer cost for that one hose. I got all the others
for about $29 with my employee discount.

 

Very honestly, instead of getting a jerry-rigged hose, do it properly and put a new OEM hose on. You may be thinking 50 dollars is alot, it's much better than a setup failing and you needing a new motor because of it.

There is no faster way to blow your engine than to have the cooling system to fail and the car to overheat. Believe me it will happen within seconds if a coolant line like that fails. Do it properly the first time and you won't regret it.

 

I believe I have one left on my parts car. Pay for shipping and it's yours.

 

I think I may be able to handle it. I don't think I can ride a bike 10-15 miles to my nearest mazda dealer in 20-30* weather. Why would a brand new line with a metal specifically made for heater hose coupler fail if done correctly?

 

Looking for new, unfortunately. It's not popped, but is pretty hard. I am more concerned with it failing than a "jerry rigged" one. Thanks though.

 

I'm not saying that for sure it will fail, but rather that you are increasing your chances of a cooling system failure. The OEM stuff is tried and tested and you can rely on the fact that it's going to give you a long trouble free life. It's your decision, but like I said if it were my car I would be replacing the lines with new OEM lines from mazda.

 

If you work at a parts store it's easy to match up to a picture guide. And I don't see why a universal hose with 90 degree ends would not work. It comes off of the nipple at the engine block under the oil filter then goes across the width of the motor to the heater core nipple at the firewall which would be the other end of a 90 degree bend. Come on guys, think outside the box.

 

Are you talking about the hose on this page? This is where I got mine. $42.55

http://www.mazdatrix.com/bhose1a.htm

Rich

 

One thing is certain: if you overheat your engine you'll eventually have to replace the ORings in the beehive and the Orings in the intake manifold. At the least. Or you may have to rebuild the engine if you operate it too long overheated.

The old 90 deg bend by the firewall can be left in place and a 4" length of 1/2 " copper tube (scrap from a plumber or a nipple from a hardware store) used as a coupler with 2 hose clamps in the section parallel to the firewall. Then ordinary 5/8 heater hose from the autostore can be fished into place patiently but it's tedious. Lube the ID of the hose so it'll slip onto that buried nipple more easily. Then make sure your hose clamps are properly tightened. I've done this fix just to know that I could do it if an emergency arose in a remote village.

There! How's that for being outside the box? Cheap and not even all that hard. Even so, I carry a spare OEM hose in the bin of each car because it's easier to install.