has anyone done it?

and would the solenoids from a central locking kit be strong enough to open ("pull" the handle) the door?

also how would you get the doors to open (they'd only need to open about 10cm or so)?
would high tension springs near the hinges work?
or would you need another solenoid?

also with this you wouldnt have to lock your car, because theres no way to get in with out the remote.(but you'd be screwed if you're battery ran flat, might have to install a holly ***** switch under the car somewhere)

-Cheers

 

the previous owner did what your talking about. all I know is the solenoids he has(i think from a central lock) barely work 1/5 of the time. he also put in a ghettorific pull cable up in the front fenderwell so if the battery is dead you can still get in, etc. Its too much money for my blood to fix right so I will prolly put some handels back in, that and track tech dont like em


edit: I'll try and get some pics today of his job

 

thanks mate

 

Try this one: http://www.autoloc.com/products/shaveddoor.lasso Autoloc's been supplying shaved door handle kits to the street rod set for years. I installed one, and the solenoids are much more powerful than the ones used to operate the locks. When you open the doors, you hear an audible "bang".

To do this right, you want a detent so the doors only pop open an inch or so (just enough to get your hand behind the flange). Otherwise, you'll have to make sure you don't open your doors when parked on an angle or they might fly open and mess up somebody else's ride.

The cable in the fender trick mentioned above is the simplest and safest way to back up a shaved door handle system. A bicycle brake cable works well for this.

Lastly, everything I know about these systems says they are very durable. I haven't heard of problems with the "canned" systems like Autoloc's.

 

autoloc is the best bar-none. I am going to work on the 7 today so I will bring the camera along and to take some pics of it.

sorry to take so long btw



ok I just remembered I thought I had posted a picture I had. I will get some of the inside.

btw here is the post https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=259451

 

tahnks for your help guys!

also.. if you had no handles, would you still need locks?

no one would be able to get it, so you could take of the popup part of the lock on the inside, and hey presto

 

I'm interested in this. But how does the passenger get in? Does the driver hit the button on the remote once for the drivers door and a second time for the passenger?

Just curious.

 

Obviously either that or you would have to open his door for him forn the inside.

 

yeah either two different buttons.. or press the same button twice.

with the master module (dont know the name), would it possiable to use the same one from a sequential c/locking kit
(ie press the button once and it unlocks the drivers door, press it again and it unlocks the rest)? so that it would only open one door at a time. or would you need to program something to do that
(how hardwould it be? i have access to the motorolla 68HC11 if anyone has knowledge of asembly (YUK) programming)

but you would have to set a delay for the solenoids that push open the door.. else it'll be pushing against a closed door, not good.. how would this be done?

 

This is kinda like the question, "If you had no feet, would you need shoes?" The answer to both is "No". When you delete the locks, however, be sure to disable the lock lever on the door latch so it can never be inadvertently locked. As for covering over the lock "tombstone" hole in your door trim panel, you're on your own.

 

If you were going to shave the door handles, you wouldn't need to lock the front doors (see my previous post). As for using the output from a central locking module, you will want to check the duration and voltage of the pulse that comes from the module. The Autoloc system employs a relay for each door latch solenoid. The relay is actuated by a normally low square wave pulse from the control module supplied with the kit. You'll need to verify that the pulse from the central locking module has (or can be made to have) the same properties.

 

do they doors lock if you close the door without holding up the handle?

coz if they dont you wouldnt need to disable the locking system (but its aneasy job with the panles off anyway)

from what you say it'd prolly be easier to programme a new micrcontroller my self.

also.. instead of solenoids to push open the door... would it be possiable to have high tension sprongs near the hinges?

 

Q1: They're not supposed to, but mine have malfunctioned, with the tombstone 1/2 way up & the door locked. I'm not very familiar with the RX-7 latches, but we simply tack-welded the lock mechanism on the last car I did -- one less opportunity for things to go wrong.

Q2: If you get the Autoloc kit, everything you need is already included -- solenoids, relays, door popper springs, control unit, key fob remote, instructions, wiring, etc.

Q3: The solenoids don't push the door open. They release the door latch, just like you do when you pull the outside handle. The door popper spings mount in the door shut face, near the strikers, and they're the part that push the door open. If you try to mount them near the hinges (like on some household door setups) you'll need to overcome the resistance created by your door checks with very short lever arm, and I imagine you'd need a very stiff spring to reliably pop the doors.

 

yea i looked at the autolock ones.. but $350 or so seems to be alot.. plus shipping...

so you're saying that the springs are mounted near where the door latches to the car body?

how do they get them to push it out that far? ie are the springs longer then the "shut face" (if you had the doors open and looked at them from the back, would you be able to see the springs?)

thanks for your help btw!

 

How do you close the doors, period? Use the window or bump the door with yer butt? What kind of wear factor is being introduced and where to close the doors now that you no longer have a handle to grab to do the job?

 

usually just push it from about half way up on the frame next to the window

elwood.. do you have any photos of these springs?

-Cheers

 

No, photos, but I think I can explain them. In the lower rear corner of your RX door, there is a plunger that is your door ajar switch. Now imagine that thing about 5X larger, with a very stiff spring and no electrical function. When you unlatch the door, it flings it open. It's that simple. It can be mounted on either the body side or the door side. You just have to find a spot with enough space behind it since the plunger will want to stroke quite a bit.

After reading your post, I can understand you want to do this on the cheap. Two places to search for oddball hardware and electrical stuff are Grainger and Aircraft Spruce. Haven't checked for the stuff you're looking for, but they usually have some interesting stuff at good prices.

 

here are some pics, the guy did use the stock door lock mechanism to pull the door latch open, it isnt strong enough so it takes a bit of fanagling(sp) to make em work. I have the car parked so I just left the window motor out and push down on that when I want to get in.
oh btw I was in a rush so the pics suck


EDIT: website owns me, Ill post after church, laters

 

ok.. that makes alot more scence.
thanks...

also.. im in aus and i've never heard of those stores... but i know a few sops and whatnot thatd be able to get stuff..

how strong would the solenoids have to be?
i was reading on that website that they're like 75 lb
sounds a bit excessive..

and pics would be great... thanks mate

(and im being a cheap *** coz im a full time un student = no time for work = little money )

 

why dont you pm me your email addy so I can send them to you, I exceeded my bandwidth so I cant post pics right now.

 

As far as how strong the solenoids have to be -- the answer is just strong enough to open the door latch. You can test this by removing your door trim panel and pulling on the latch lever with a fish scale. The real trick, however, is making sure your setup will work in all types of weather and temperatures. The Autoloc setup has so much power because it's a universal setup made to work with all makes of car, and under all temperature conditions -- i.e. when it's well below freezing and there is ice on some of the components. I live in Michigan (where it gets fairly cold), and I installed my own custom power door lock setup using Mazda 626 components. The system works great above freezing / not so great below freezing.

 

so if i live somehwere that never gets below 10 deg cel.. id only need the bare minimum (plus a little for the hell of it)?

 

I'd go for around double the force -- I doubt the price would be much more.

 

sounds like a plan...

now all i need is a sequential locking kit..
and a car!

(might have fixed that last one..)