That's right, I said it! I wanna lift one of my rx-7s two and a half inches in the back, and put 265 50 15s that will stick out past the fenders about 2 inches on each side.

This is for fun right now, but the car will eventually be a winter beater. Wondering how to lift the rear, and what doing that in combo with the wide wheels sticking out will do to handeling.
I mean, does'nt widening the track by 3-4 inches make up for lifting the rear?

The body on this car is suffering badly, but I refuse to scrap it! I think I'll just use it to experiment with different things...a guinea pig car.

I'm gonna try my hand at welding with it.

 

Do you have the stock shock/springs/struts on it?

 

they make spacers but 2.5" is a lot without using a taller spring.

 

how would i go about lifting mine by about 1"? i have rims with slightly wrong backspacing and the 2 front tires rub when i corner too hard.

 

RB springs, Koni adjustables.

 

Spacers sounds like the best option then.

 

Where would I find them? I don't recall seeing them in RB or Mazdatrix.
I thought about just making some on my lathe.

 

you gotta post pics, when you do the lift
i'd love to see it!!

 

I will! I have huge slotted wheels for it. It'll be very "70s backyard muscle car wannabe-ish"! If I like the look, I'll just put it all on the rex that is getting the Eaton. That way it can live up to what it screams visually.

What will this lift in combo with the rear wheels sticking out two inches each do to the handeling?

 

Hard to tell!

The car's CG will be higher in relation to the roll center. This means the chassis will have more leverage over the suspension, similar to a normal ride height car with a Panhard rod. The rear of the car will want to roll more than the front. Meaning - massive understeer with stock spring rates, because there will be more weight transfer in the front. (I know weight transfer is a misnomer and load transfer is a better term - oh well)

The wider tires won't be helping

However I don't know how limber the rear suspension is when the car is raised that high. My guess is roll bind will be worse. Result - snap oversteer sometimes. (keep in mind we are ASSuming here)

Should be interesting to find out for sure though

 

Peejay-

View the car from the rear. Draw an isosolese triangle that goes from the bottom and center of one wheel, up to about the center of the bumper, and back to the other wheel, and across.

Widen the wheels, and lift the car, but keep the angles of that triangle the same.

Are we then talking the same suspension geometry?

Another option on the rust bucket is to simply leave the stock hieght, but remove some of the fender.
What will wide rear tires do to my suspension if I don't raise the rear?

 

isosceles**

**Ducks and Runs**

 

Shouldnt you be finishing that blower setup first Sorry had to do it to ya

 

The geometry I mean is the geometry of the 4-link.

 

hurt my brain long words do.

 

This is what I got in the rear, With the stock springs you can get the height you want.

Its just a treaded collar that goes over the bump stop.
(im talking about the two collars on the "wider" springs)