LED tail lights
10-17-10, 07:13 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LED tail lights
So i put some LED tail lights into my 85. Now when i step on the break pedal the "stop lamp" light comes on. Does anyone know why this happens? All the lights work.
10-17-10, 09:58 PM
#2
Rotary Freakazoid
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Holland, Michigan/ Afganistan/ Iraq/ Itatly
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the Dash light is set to a resister draw i think.
Ok you hit the break the power goes from dash to light and the light sucks up a certian amount of voltage when the light goes out the closed loop is broken and the dash unit knows that this means its out.
LED doesnt draw much so my guess is that the draw isnt enough for the dash unit to realize its ok.
I installed the same thing but i noticed the LED wasnt bright enough in the red lens.
but its just a guess.
Ok you hit the break the power goes from dash to light and the light sucks up a certian amount of voltage when the light goes out the closed loop is broken and the dash unit knows that this means its out.
LED doesnt draw much so my guess is that the draw isnt enough for the dash unit to realize its ok.
I installed the same thing but i noticed the LED wasnt bright enough in the red lens.
but its just a guess.
10-17-10, 10:46 PM
#4
Rotary Freakazoid
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Holland, Michigan/ Afganistan/ Iraq/ Itatly
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
was i right? i think so.
Michael is on to something, if you put the right resistor tight in the line befor the bulb it should not trip the light, but you will not know if its really out.
check the FSM to see what the resistance is and also try a search on if the stock bulb type has a built in resistor?
Michael is on to something, if you put the right resistor tight in the line befor the bulb it should not trip the light, but you will not know if its really out.
check the FSM to see what the resistance is and also try a search on if the stock bulb type has a built in resistor?
10-18-10, 01:18 AM
#7
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Find the required resistor and wire it into the circuit, the system is looking for the proper resistance in the circuit assuming it has regular filament bulbs.
Trending Topics
10-18-10, 11:20 PM
#9
The reason your brake lamp indicator is illuminated is because the car thinks the bulb is burnt out. LEDs consume less power, through a lower current. In the event of a burnt out bulb, the car sees the branch as an open circuit, illuminating the indicator. Open circuits have zero current flow. An LED lamp will draw such little current, the car assumes the bulb has burnt out.
If you add a power resistor to the circuit, you can trick the car. A resistor in parallel will draw current, in much the same way a light bulb would. You will need a high power resistor, one rated at least 30-50 watts.
Typically a 6 Ohm 50W resistor for each bulb replaced is needed. Remember these resistors are dissipating power, which means they are generating heat. The higher the power rating, the cooler they will be. The 50W rating also assumes you are mounting them to a heat sink, so in open air their power rating will drop.
Points to remember!
These resistors can be purchased from electronics supply stores, eBay or online retailers such as: RL-650 Tail Light Load Resistor kit
Also, I think you will find the LED replacements are not as effective. Most do not toss light onto the reflector as the incandescent bulbs did.
If you add a power resistor to the circuit, you can trick the car. A resistor in parallel will draw current, in much the same way a light bulb would. You will need a high power resistor, one rated at least 30-50 watts.
Typically a 6 Ohm 50W resistor for each bulb replaced is needed. Remember these resistors are dissipating power, which means they are generating heat. The higher the power rating, the cooler they will be. The 50W rating also assumes you are mounting them to a heat sink, so in open air their power rating will drop.
Points to remember!
- Use a suitable high power resistor.
- Wire them in parallel, NOT series.
- Use one resistor per bulb.
These resistors can be purchased from electronics supply stores, eBay or online retailers such as: RL-650 Tail Light Load Resistor kit
Also, I think you will find the LED replacements are not as effective. Most do not toss light onto the reflector as the incandescent bulbs did.
Last edited by Sgt Fox; 10-18-10 at 11:34 PM.
10-18-10, 11:32 PM
#10
the Dash light is set to a resister draw i think.
Ok you hit the break the power goes from dash to light and the light sucks up a certian amount of voltage when the light goes out the closed loop is broken and the dash unit knows that this means its out.
LED doesnt draw much so my guess is that the draw isnt enough for the dash unit to realize its ok.
I installed the same thing but i noticed the LED wasnt bright enough in the red lens.
but its just a guess.
Ok you hit the break the power goes from dash to light and the light sucks up a certian amount of voltage when the light goes out the closed loop is broken and the dash unit knows that this means its out.
LED doesnt draw much so my guess is that the draw isnt enough for the dash unit to realize its ok.
I installed the same thing but i noticed the LED wasnt bright enough in the red lens.
but its just a guess.
was i right? i think so.
Michael is on to something, if you put the right resistor tight in the line befor the bulb it should not trip the light, but you will not know if its really out.
check the FSM to see what the resistance is and also try a search on if the stock bulb type has a built in resistor?
Michael is on to something, if you put the right resistor tight in the line befor the bulb it should not trip the light, but you will not know if its really out.
check the FSM to see what the resistance is and also try a search on if the stock bulb type has a built in resistor?
Check your brake fluid level sender. The brake indicator is tied to the bulbs, fluid level and parking brake.
10-22-10, 03:49 AM
#12
I bought and installed a complete set 2 yrs ago for some $75 and they were hopelessly dim in sunlight. I actually had people at stop lights tell me my brake lights were broken. Maybe aftermarket tech has improved since then - it will eventually - but be warned you could be in a world of hurt if these under-perform in an emergency.
New OEM LEDs are a completely diff kettle of fish - far more sophisticated (they use a complete, specialized housing/power supply, etc) and likely eye-wateringly expensive. This too will change. meanwhile I think Thomas Edison is still your best friend...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
New OEM LEDs are a completely diff kettle of fish - far more sophisticated (they use a complete, specialized housing/power supply, etc) and likely eye-wateringly expensive. This too will change. meanwhile I think Thomas Edison is still your best friend...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
08-05-14, 01:57 PM
#14
Looking for input on proper installation of load resistors....
85 GSL FB NA, totally stock.
Sorry to resurrect this thread, as I know the topic already has been covered in detail here and elsewhere; but I'm hoping to get some advice on why my load resistor installation does not work... :-(
About a year ago I installed LEDs in my taillights for all bulbs other than turn signals. These are bright and awesome--but of course give me the STOP LAMP warning light whenever I apply the brake. Ignoring it has gotten old, so a couple weeks ago I elected to go the load resistor route, with this kit: 6 ohms, 50 Watts
The instructions are pretty straightforward (see attached).
So based on these instructions, and the wiring diagram for the taillights (attached, from FSM, Wiring Diagram, p. 50:24), I connected the load resistors (one for each taillight assembly) *in parallel, between the GREEN wire on the harness connector and the BLACK (ground).*
And yes, it was the solid GREEN wire that I used. No stripes.
Unfortunately, I still get the STOP LAMP warning light in the gauge cluster...
Can anyone point out where I may have gone wrong? I figured this was such a simple fix, and the Stop Light circuit was so clearly labeled in the wiring diagram that it should be quick and easy...
Sorry to resurrect this thread, as I know the topic already has been covered in detail here and elsewhere; but I'm hoping to get some advice on why my load resistor installation does not work... :-(
About a year ago I installed LEDs in my taillights for all bulbs other than turn signals. These are bright and awesome--but of course give me the STOP LAMP warning light whenever I apply the brake. Ignoring it has gotten old, so a couple weeks ago I elected to go the load resistor route, with this kit: 6 ohms, 50 Watts
The instructions are pretty straightforward (see attached).
So based on these instructions, and the wiring diagram for the taillights (attached, from FSM, Wiring Diagram, p. 50:24), I connected the load resistors (one for each taillight assembly) *in parallel, between the GREEN wire on the harness connector and the BLACK (ground).*
And yes, it was the solid GREEN wire that I used. No stripes.
Unfortunately, I still get the STOP LAMP warning light in the gauge cluster...
Can anyone point out where I may have gone wrong? I figured this was such a simple fix, and the Stop Light circuit was so clearly labeled in the wiring diagram that it should be quick and easy...
The reason your brake lamp indicator is illuminated is because the car thinks the bulb is burnt out. LEDs consume less power, through a lower current. In the event of a burnt out bulb, the car sees the branch as an open circuit, illuminating the indicator. Open circuits have zero current flow. An LED lamp will draw such little current, the car assumes the bulb has burnt out.
If you add a power resistor to the circuit, you can trick the car. A resistor in parallel will draw current, in much the same way a light bulb would. You will need a high power resistor, one rated at least 30-50 watts.
Typically a 6 Ohm 50W resistor for each bulb replaced is needed. Remember these resistors are dissipating power, which means they are generating heat. The higher the power rating, the cooler they will be. The 50W rating also assumes you are mounting them to a heat sink, so in open air their power rating will drop.
Points to remember!
These resistors can be purchased from electronics supply stores, eBay or online retailers such as: RL-650 Tail Light Load Resistor kit
Also, I think you will find the LED replacements are not as effective. Most do not toss light onto the reflector as the incandescent bulbs did.
If you add a power resistor to the circuit, you can trick the car. A resistor in parallel will draw current, in much the same way a light bulb would. You will need a high power resistor, one rated at least 30-50 watts.
Typically a 6 Ohm 50W resistor for each bulb replaced is needed. Remember these resistors are dissipating power, which means they are generating heat. The higher the power rating, the cooler they will be. The 50W rating also assumes you are mounting them to a heat sink, so in open air their power rating will drop.
Points to remember!
- Use a suitable high power resistor.
- Wire them in parallel, NOT series.
- Use one resistor per bulb.
These resistors can be purchased from electronics supply stores, eBay or online retailers such as: RL-650 Tail Light Load Resistor kit
Also, I think you will find the LED replacements are not as effective. Most do not toss light onto the reflector as the incandescent bulbs did.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post