i got my car going and it idles fine but has no take off power, accelerator pump is fine. what can be doing this, ill rev it up let the clutch out and then it will bog out, but it will rev up standing still. also when the secondaries open is the only time i have power otherwise i have to floor the pedal and bog the car, then slowly the secondaries open. and it starts moving

 

ohh yea it sounds like, brap brappp braaa(clutch all the way out bout here) booogggg then it dies, so wierd revs up good on standstill ... ???

 

check fuel filter, make sure your fuel pump is delivering enough fuel, it may also be that your cat is clogged...but start with the filter.

 

parking break on?

 

i changed the fuel filter and drained the tank. the cat would do that? like i said it revs up fine idle, its so mind boggleing that it wouldnt wanna take off, lol no the parking brake isnt on

 

Check your ignition, mine ran real weak when my leading ignition crapped out.

 

If everything is still relatively stock, it shouldn't be brapping. Check the ignition system, cap rotor, wires, sparkplugs, spark strength, timeing, etc.....

 

well it dosent, brap i just said that, its a stock port 12a with muffler removed, air pump, acv, rats nest, broken down carb that's it., all new plugs n wires, its not running rough, if i revved it and burnt out in the snow it would carry it out through the secondaries but when im in the street and taking off on a hill is almost impossible unless i ride out the clutch

 

it could also be your clutch being worn out

 

i poke fun, then less than an hour later, i have the same problem. it died twice on the way home.

 

So it won't rev under load is essentially the problem?

 

if you're having trouble for it to catch first gear, specially going up, most likely the culprit is the clutch. This would also cause it not run as strong as it used to because the gears will be slipping. low end will feel like ****, and mushy, no power what so ever, it'll rev but it won't go, 4-5 gear don't require that much pressure so virtually no difference will be felt here unless you're trying to floor it. it would also be hard to get into gear, maybe do some grinding on the way.

If it's catching fine, but no power, the usual culprits are, fuel filter, clogged lines, clogged jets, secondary's not opening due to linkage (teeter totter) fuel pump being fucked up, or a clogged cat. and yes a clogged cat can cause it to act like that since the exhaust is not breathing well and it's causing extreme back pressure. these are the basic checks. (usually all of these will cause the car to act fine while idling, the symptoms will show while under load).

also, if you haven't done mechanical secondaries, it could be your vacuum solenoid going out or a vacuum leak in the system...a very quick cheap and effective way to fix it, would be to do mechanical secondaries, there's a write up on that somewhere lol.

 

I'm having the same issue right now. It starts fine, idles fine, but when I accelerate its got no ***** till 4000 RPM then I can really feel the secondaries kicking in. I just did a carb rebuild as well. Did you ever figure out what was causing yours?

 

It's not the clutch, unless he keeps going and burns it up. Ignition, carb, fuel filter/pump/supply or plugging exhaust system.

 

Drive ability problems are very hard to diagnose. What I have found very helpful is to rule out what is not contributing to the problem. Always start with the basics, fuel spark and compression. I would do a compression test first a finger over the spark plug hole when cranking the motor works pretty good.If you think that the fuel is not being delivered to the motor properly then hook up a fuel pressure gauge in line so that you can drive the vehicle and look at the fuel pressure(tape the gauge to the wind shield) when the problem happens. Another good way to check on fuel delivery is to run the motor through the rpm range(trany in nutral and standing to the side of the vehicle) and look down the carburetor,using a mirror to prevent getting your faced burned in the event of a stack fire, to make sure that there is fuel getting delivered to the motor via the two primary and two secondary circuits of the carb. These are a few ways that I have used over the years to determine how the fuel is getting to the combustion chamber. Ruling out what is not contributing to the problem is going to be the fastest way to fixing the problem. I hope that this will help? Remember the basics, compression, fuel and spark.

 

Are the wires from the T1 and T2 terminals on the distributor connected to the top spark plugs?

 

 

nah i havent idk what the hell is going on, everything is new and i never touched the wires or anything, it ran primarys b4 the build and no secondaries now its only got secondaries

 

uh..yeeeaaaaah . . . haha i don't know what you're trying to describe here man sorry. You have any videos? or pics of your set up, to help us try to identify what is in your head

 

How did you get "all new plugs and wires" without touching the wires?

 

check your trailing ignitor (the one on the cap closest to the radiator) it not only controls the tach but ur fuel pump as well, mine did the same til i replaced it, now it hits the rev buzzer from take off everytime

 

coils?

 

my trailing is the one closest to the Alternator

 

oops sorry your right leading is closest to the radiator and trailing is closest to the alternator, i appogize. good catch.

 

It has to be running your primaries. If it wasn't running on primaries, you wouldn't be running. I'd guess that it's what Trochoid has already suggested: check your fuel flow and your ignition. I'd also be suspicious of your cat. Does your "exhaust overheat" light turn on at all?