Killer Bee Logo



Killer Bee Engine
coloring theme gives it away


Ready to slide in

 

I might need to call him and ask if I can use his coloring scheme lol. I love it

 

Whats the hp/tq,and at what rpm range? I'm looking for a nice enigne to drop into an FB for a daily,but still be able to auto-cross it. How would the Killer Bee hold up to a nice shot of nitrous? I was also thinking,what about a ram air set-up? I know it wouldn't add that much hp,but hell,its worth a shot.

 

they stole my engine!

 

then after wal-mart changed the oil...ha ha ha more like emptied the oil... had another made with a little different color....
like the first one more.



by the way, for the most power especially at high rpm's go TURBO.
Rotortuner's turbo is sweet. whoop my *** quick. was fun though. was doin 125 and he FLEW by me. jerk. and as for the superchargers. they are great. the atkins car did only dyno at 176. but........ he was runnin a 6psi pully and had a carb that wasn't tuned in very well. actually a few hours before i noticed the secondaries weren't even opening all the way, so we fixed that. and the other good thing about the supercharger is that his hp wasn't below ,i believe 120 at the start and had a very even line, not a boost curve. so the pro's and con's. for the most power at high rpm's go turbo. for constant power, go camden supercharger.

 

like the first one better,

 

same here

 

So,what about those questions on this engine and nitrous/ram air?

 

it all depends on how it's built. yes, ram air is good on any engine. stock or built. cold air rocks. how much power it will produce? probably not too much. and for nos? i've been lookin into it for awhile now. you can run a 75 wet shot on a motor. unless you get it built with clearanced rotors, then you can run a 150 wet shot. just depends on how well it is built and how long you want it to last.

 

heys guys thanks for all the input. by the way the complete setup comes with a weber carb and a complete exhaust system that is identical to racingbeats.....also this is the Fast Freddy's shop located in Joshua Tree in cali...its the secondary shop of the one in Santa Anna

im looking at doing this swap here in the next couple of months...and im going to put a blow-thru turbo on it after the new years if everything goes as planned...so keep up the advice and ill make sure to post pics

 

Well,I'm looking at this "killer bee" set-up. Is this on a 12a,or a 13b? I'm assuming 13b. With 250 flywheel horsepower,and a 2800lbs car,that should put me in the mid-low 14's atleast. With the 75 shot,I'm sure I can hit 13's. Would be a great daily/auto-x car.

 

since when does a 1st gen weigh 2800lbs? they were 2350-2500 depending on year and options.

you want the extra power and torque of a 13b.

 

Holy crap,even lighter then I thought. This set-up alone would drop you in the 13's.

 

Is there a certain 13b that would work best? I know someone that I think ran this set-up,and he used a 13b from a 79 Cosmo.

 

yes, a 4 port motor puts out a little more power than the 6 ports.

13b 4 ports were in rx4, repu, and cosmo. but you can make one with 12a 4 port plates, 13b rotors, eshaft, counterweights. lighter 89-91 rotors are also higher compression.

 

I hadn't realized how little there actually is to a rotary engine till I was looking for 12a parts on ebay. I'll have to look into building one of those engines you just described. Do you have idea what the reliability/how many miles that motor you described would be capable of?

 

http://mazdatrix.com/eng13bsp.htm

 

I have a killer bee in my SA22C LS, I bought the car from a local junkyard for $1,000 and the engine fired right up after replacing the battery, ignition switch and adding gas+premix and after doing some basic maintenance and replacing a few old failing parts it's currently my daily. The car is very quick and easy to drive. While it's much faster than my old stock 83' FB, it's surprisingly fuel efficient. I drive alot and my overall mpg is about 15-17 city and 19-23 hwy. I'm not sure what power and torque output is, but what I can tell you is that it's very enjoyable to drive and I would highly recommend this setup to anyone wanting a good solid and reliable rotary powered daily.

Details: the engine is a 12a/13b hybrid using 12a irons and RX-5/Cosmo 13B housings, it's paired to an RX5 5 speed ribcase trans and uses a racing beat 465 cfm holley and has full racing beat header back exhaust

The car is a 1980 SA22C LS

*verified that the engine was built by RRR over conversations had with Nick and is one of his earlier setups that used racing beat holleys. He stated that he made the switch to weber carbs due to issues had with the RB holleys when cornering and the setup I have is better for straight lines, but perfectly fine for daily use. I've noticed when I turn left there is some hesitation and/or fuel cutting, but right turns are perfectly fine (largely due to how the carb sits with the bowls on the right and left). But again this set up is perfect for daily use.

 

now get DLIDFIS.

 

Finally got my car onto a dyno and results weren't disappointing at all. For a car that came out of a junkyard with a modified engine with unknown mileage (aside from the 10,000 miles i've put on it within the last 6 months) likely built in the early 80s from what Nick was telling me about my setup in particular, the numbers seem very decent (plus this was at 4,300 FAS)

*When I had my old 83' FB which was just a stock GS I had planned to do an S4 Turbo II swap after finishing my RX-8 build, but since losing it in a wreck being T-Boned and the SA being it's replacement, with this setup, I no longer have any desire to either boost or swap a boosted engine into a 1st gen chassis. As a daily driver it's perfect and I enjoy every second of driving it and having the solid reliability of an NA with similar WHP output of a stock TII is a huge plus. So IMHO if all you care about is power, by all means go for the TII, but if you want the best of both worlds and don't care so much for very high output, but rather a modest but decent output, go for the killer bee

*Also turns out the irons I thought were 12a are actually 13b irons, Y cast front and rear and R5 center 4 port 13B irons with RX-5 housings (just thought i'd mention it to correct my last comment)

 

not bad for a $1000 dollar car you scored