key stuck..
05-31-09, 05:52 PM
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key stuck..
so today i was puttin air in my tires.. went to get in the car and it was super hard to turn the key.... it turned eventually after willing and swearing.... so i get to my destination and the key would not com out... nor would it turn again.... so once again willing and swearing... got the key out....... then it was time time to leave.... and sure enough the key would not turn, this time really would not budge... so i disconnected the ignition switch.. to just start it like that... and forgot about the wheel lock... and you guest it... it locked... so i pulled the steering colum down so i could push the car to a spot where it wouldnt b in the way... at this point i was very frustrated, cause i noticed that i could not get the cylinder off with out a dremel or somekind of tool ... but after some more willing and swearing and this time hitting the key turned to unlock the wheel.... and now it is stuck and wont move.... this ever happen to you guys? what do i do?
05-31-09, 08:18 PM
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trust me it want the steering wheel... im going to take the lock mech. off as well as the ign. cylinder... and mess with it.. and try to get it to work again.
06-01-09, 07:52 AM
#7
He already has a used switch from me.
Make sure the screw holding the lower steering column cover to the bottom of the dash is not too long. This screw threads into the metal portion of the ignition switch. If it is too long it pushes into the side of the plastic case of the contact switch. This presses the case into the contact cylinder inside and stops the switch (key) from turning. If it is long enough it could break the case. It can make it seem like the steering wheel is locked. I'll bet this is the cause of many broken ignition switches.
Make sure the screw holding the lower steering column cover to the bottom of the dash is not too long. This screw threads into the metal portion of the ignition switch. If it is too long it pushes into the side of the plastic case of the contact switch. This presses the case into the contact cylinder inside and stops the switch (key) from turning. If it is long enough it could break the case. It can make it seem like the steering wheel is locked. I'll bet this is the cause of many broken ignition switches.
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06-01-09, 08:03 AM
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while that is a great thing to know.... i dont even have a screw there.. since who ever owned the car befor me broke that part of the steering column.... so the key is still stuck... i even tried to get a pair of plyers on the side where the switch usually is and turn it that way... no dice... i think i just may go back to my origianl idea with the starter button.... can anyone help me wire one up? i tried using a diagram that someone posted on here but it did not work.. i want a switch to turn on the acc. and a button to start the car...
06-02-09, 08:14 AM
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ok so this is whats going to happen.... i can not get the key out, iv tried everything i can.... so the lock cylinder is coming off, and im going to put a togle acc/kill switch/push button start.... now heres my problem, iv serched and searched, got info tried it... and didnt work, this is what happpend... i would push the button, and some how it would blow the fusible link out of its spade.... so i tried another way... it did not do anything!!! so can anyone possibly pm the directions to wire in a toggle switch for turning the acc on and a push button with a relay for start... will i need a realy for the toggle switch as well?
06-02-09, 03:41 PM
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If I remember right, the side of the switch opposite the key (the one with all the wires) comes out with a screw. Also, I believe it's got a slot in it.
If that's the case, if nobody comes up with a wiring list/diagram for you, you should still be able to use either a multimeter/voltmeter to see which wires get juice at each position. Start with it turned all the way counterclockwise (to where it would be at the "lock" position), and see which wire has positive all the time (battery obviously has to be connected). Hopefully only 1 does (but check 'em all), and it's the main positive feed to the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise one notch (should then be where it would be if ACC were chosen), and see which other wire now has positive as well. That's the ACC line from the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise again a notch (should be at the ON position), and see which wire now has positive too. That's the ON line from the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise again a notch (should be at the START position - not sure if it's spring loaded here or not), and see which wire gets positive. That's the START line from the switch. Note that since the battery's connected, the car will obviously start at the same time unless you pull the wire to the starter solenoid (which might be a good idea). The ACC line probably won't have power in this position btw but it probably won't matter.
THIS IS IMPORTANT - IF IT'S NOT EXACTLY AS I'VE ASSUMED ABOVE, STOP HERE - THE REST IS BASED UPON THE FIRST STUFF BEING ACCURATE AND WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY BE WRONG IF THE TOP IS INCORRECT. I ALSO HAVEN'T DONE THIS BEFORE (I'VE HOTWIRED A CAR USING THIS METHOD, BUT NOT AN RX), SO SOMETHING ELSE COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG OR I COULD BE MISSING SOMETHING AND I WOULDN'T KNOW.
From there, you should have a good idea as to how to wire up your switches/pushbuttons. The positive will always come from the initial wire, will go to the switch for ACC, the switch for ON, and the pushbutton for START. Each of those switches/buttons will run to their respective wires. You'll have to cut all the wires from the original switch and wire them to your new stuff.
As far as relays go, if the switches are rated for pretty high current, you can probably make do without relays for them. If they're not rated for high current (or don't say), definitely use relays.
It's worth noting you can use relays for fancy stuff like killing the ACC line while the car's in the START position if you want to mimic the stock behavior, but it adds complexity to the system and probably isn't worth it unless there's a reason to do it.
I'd probably simply use 1 switch with a relay that dumps power to both ACC and ON, and 1 pushbutton with the relay for start to keep it simple.
In any case, good luck, and hopefully someone dumps some perfect instructions with a wiring diagram for ya to make things easier, but if not, you can always figure out how to do it with a voltmeter and some time. To be honest though, might be just as much work to disconnect the steering box to give you room to dremel out the bolts holding the lock assembly on and just replace the darn thing, keeping everything stock.
If that's the case, if nobody comes up with a wiring list/diagram for you, you should still be able to use either a multimeter/voltmeter to see which wires get juice at each position. Start with it turned all the way counterclockwise (to where it would be at the "lock" position), and see which wire has positive all the time (battery obviously has to be connected). Hopefully only 1 does (but check 'em all), and it's the main positive feed to the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise one notch (should then be where it would be if ACC were chosen), and see which other wire now has positive as well. That's the ACC line from the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise again a notch (should be at the ON position), and see which wire now has positive too. That's the ON line from the switch.
Next, turn the switch clockwise again a notch (should be at the START position - not sure if it's spring loaded here or not), and see which wire gets positive. That's the START line from the switch. Note that since the battery's connected, the car will obviously start at the same time unless you pull the wire to the starter solenoid (which might be a good idea). The ACC line probably won't have power in this position btw but it probably won't matter.
THIS IS IMPORTANT - IF IT'S NOT EXACTLY AS I'VE ASSUMED ABOVE, STOP HERE - THE REST IS BASED UPON THE FIRST STUFF BEING ACCURATE AND WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY BE WRONG IF THE TOP IS INCORRECT. I ALSO HAVEN'T DONE THIS BEFORE (I'VE HOTWIRED A CAR USING THIS METHOD, BUT NOT AN RX), SO SOMETHING ELSE COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG OR I COULD BE MISSING SOMETHING AND I WOULDN'T KNOW.
From there, you should have a good idea as to how to wire up your switches/pushbuttons. The positive will always come from the initial wire, will go to the switch for ACC, the switch for ON, and the pushbutton for START. Each of those switches/buttons will run to their respective wires. You'll have to cut all the wires from the original switch and wire them to your new stuff.
As far as relays go, if the switches are rated for pretty high current, you can probably make do without relays for them. If they're not rated for high current (or don't say), definitely use relays.
It's worth noting you can use relays for fancy stuff like killing the ACC line while the car's in the START position if you want to mimic the stock behavior, but it adds complexity to the system and probably isn't worth it unless there's a reason to do it.
I'd probably simply use 1 switch with a relay that dumps power to both ACC and ON, and 1 pushbutton with the relay for start to keep it simple.
In any case, good luck, and hopefully someone dumps some perfect instructions with a wiring diagram for ya to make things easier, but if not, you can always figure out how to do it with a voltmeter and some time. To be honest though, might be just as much work to disconnect the steering box to give you room to dremel out the bolts holding the lock assembly on and just replace the darn thing, keeping everything stock.
06-02-09, 05:23 PM
#11
Sounds like the lock cylinder failed or something got stuck in it. Maybe one tumbler pin fell out and jammed the key in there.
My ignition lock is so worn I can take the key out with the car running... which is actually really handy... and I have to "unload" the steering wheel from the lock position before the key will turn. 30 years of wear.
My ignition lock is so worn I can take the key out with the car running... which is actually really handy... and I have to "unload" the steering wheel from the lock position before the key will turn. 30 years of wear.
06-02-09, 05:33 PM
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"If I remember right, the side of the switch opposite the key (the one with all the wires) comes out with a screw. Also, I believe it's got a slot in it."
yeah you are right that is how i start my car and turn it off right now..... its just hanging there... i can use just about anything to start the car.... thanks for the help ima get into it tomorrow morning and see what i can figure out with the voltmeter... maybe that last button i had just wasnt strong enough, but i think it was either 100amps or 60 amps...
yeah you are right that is how i start my car and turn it off right now..... its just hanging there... i can use just about anything to start the car.... thanks for the help ima get into it tomorrow morning and see what i can figure out with the voltmeter... maybe that last button i had just wasnt strong enough, but i think it was either 100amps or 60 amps...
06-02-09, 05:45 PM
#13
I have the mechanical part for that contact switch. I also have the key and complete lock set. If you want to go that route. 84-85 Ignition switch wire colors... are, at least sometimes, wrong in Factory diagram. Wires coming from the switch are....
Blue wire is out to ACC
Cigar lighter, remote mirrors, power antenna and audio.
Black/yellow is out to Ign 1
alternator, ignition, meters and warning lights, turn, hazzard, back up lights, power windows, cruise control...everything else but lights and Ign 2.
Black/white wire is out to Ign 2
AC, power steering, front and rear wiper and washer motors and rear defroster.
Black/red wire is out to starter
White/red is 12V in from main fusible link
If you look closely at the terminals where the wires are soldered to the back of the switch there are tiny letters labeling each one. You could use three toggles. One for Acc, one for Ign1 and one for Ign 2. Then a push button for the starter. You're going to want a heavy duty toggle to handle the power load.
Blue wire is out to ACC
Cigar lighter, remote mirrors, power antenna and audio.
Black/yellow is out to Ign 1
alternator, ignition, meters and warning lights, turn, hazzard, back up lights, power windows, cruise control...everything else but lights and Ign 2.
Black/white wire is out to Ign 2
AC, power steering, front and rear wiper and washer motors and rear defroster.
Black/red wire is out to starter
White/red is 12V in from main fusible link
If you look closely at the terminals where the wires are soldered to the back of the switch there are tiny letters labeling each one. You could use three toggles. One for Acc, one for Ign1 and one for Ign 2. Then a push button for the starter. You're going to want a heavy duty toggle to handle the power load.
06-02-09, 09:31 PM
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for some reason i think the switch you sold me did not have the blue wire... cause it is not hooked up, i just thought it was something my loaded gsl had that yours didnt..... but it explains a good bit seeing that with the new switch installed my cd player didnt work, nor my cigerette lighter... but the remote windows are not there any more... since i put my new doors in, and the have manual windows and mirrors... as well as the switch is very finicky still, even off the ing. cylinder lock.... but thank you for the advise!!
06-03-09, 06:14 AM
#17
for some reason i think the switch you sold me did not have the blue wire... cause it is not hooked up, i just thought it was something my loaded gsl had that yours didnt..... but it explains a good bit seeing that with the new switch installed my cd player didnt work, nor my cigerette lighter... but the remote windows are not there any more... since i put my new doors in, and the have manual windows and mirrors... as well as the switch is very finicky still, even off the ing. cylinder lock.... but thank you for the advise!!
06-03-09, 08:08 AM
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yea stu ill be workin on the 7 all day today... getting the e-fan in there, trying to wire up the toggle switches relays and push button start, and gettung my cd player and cigerette lighter to work as well... if you want to drop by and help out you are more the welcome too! i got beer! haha. i got a gu comming in from GA to pick up my brown interior at some point today too!
06-03-09, 11:00 AM
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just got back from a few stores with a bunch of goodies!!! i got a sodering iron... and a new voltmeter... and some wire, and connectors, and toggle switches and a 60 amp push button start( the most heavy duty one they had!) some 30 amp relays and a new dremel tool!!! im ready for my new project... 74 rx-4 i think i may send you the switch back im sory man but i think it may not be in as great of working order as it looks but i REALLY do appreciate you helping me out!!!
06-03-09, 08:56 PM
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Pretty sure the contact switch I sent you has exactly the same color wires I described above. Here are pictures before I sent it. Can't see all the wires, but the blue is clearly visible in the second pic. If we can't get it to work, you can send it back and I'll refund your money.
06-03-09, 09:07 PM
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so the switches and button are all installed!!! although since i dont have a cd player in there at the moment, an dmy cig. lighter doesnt seem to be working.... im not sure the acc switch is wired up... i mean it is according to all the info from this forum but seems to do nothing at the moment!!! but the install is great! i hid the ign. power switch... and the push button is where the choke was... it looks stellar!
06-04-09, 01:27 PM
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yeah it was! just time consuming soldering all the wires... and stuff from the info we you gave me... the info i looked up and the bump of that wiring diagram.... pretty easy... though i dont have a relay on the acc... yet.. but its just powering my cd player,(and soon to be fan as soon as cut the alluminum to hold it in place.... im trying to get my cig. lighter to work as i type.... so there might be a relay in its future... but the button has a relay and so does the ign. on switch.