e_surface:

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I did a mod to my 12A OMP to run external feed oil. Here's the link:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/12a-mop-mod-illustrated-597197/

Others have done similar mods to the 13B OMPs.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/diy-2-stroke-mop-mod-write-up-372702/

As for the OMP rebuild...I have some extras of the o'rings. PM me if you would like a set.

Oil tank...I am using a Polaris oil reservoir. It came with a level sensor and was about $5 on ebay.

 

sorry for the delay guys. i havent had the time to do this yet. i have since removed the bottom plug on the resovoir and replaced it with a 90* adapter and a nipple. i also blocked off the old nipple. i need to buy new OMP line and do thsi mod this weekend.

 

Just noticed the pic you posted of the bottom. That works out perfectly, now get busy and install it, lol.

 

I also want to do this mod soon...and being a self-proclaimed 2-stoke guru I just want to say that some 2-cycle oils builds up carbon(which is what this adapter is suppose to prevent by using 2-cycle oil opposed to regular motor oil)...some worse than others. The castor 2cycle oils will gum/carbon up rings and power valves in 2-stoke cyclinders but very good protection(mostly used in cart engines turning high RPM's like 10,000-18,000 rpm's), so I assume it will also gum/build up carbon to seals in rotary's eventually....even if you use Klotz de-gummed benol. The cleanest burning/least carbon building 2-stoke oil that I've found is synthetic Bel-Ray MC-1 and less fouling too...I learned this after years of using Golden spectro, Castor, maxima, Klotz, ect. and what ever you do I wouldn't use outboard 2 cycle oil or cheap stuff from auto parts store like Valvoline and especially Pennsoil.
MC-1 is the only one I'll use...Bel-Ray also makes HR-1 and although it is better than most it does tend to get a little gummy also.
It's about $35 a gallon from online MX sites.
I finally found a subject that I can actually give advice on, woohoo!

 

Oh and never mix two different kinds of 2 cycle oils...drain the old first if you have to. Using a combination of two different 2-cycle oils will cause foaming, which will cause a combination of air and oil delivery opposed to just oil delivery.

 

*Edited* sorry...somehow my post got posted twice, hmm

 

If you want that really strong, but great smelling exhaust(just like you were at the races)you could use a tank of Klotz Benol...smells soooo good(but gummy).
Ok I'm leaving now

 

yes sir!

bigmotoxer- i have a case of indemitsu premix ill use first. after that ill either buy another case, use MMO, or possibly try something else.

 

where did you get your indemitsu premix? No one local sells it here.

 

Yeah we've used mmo in atv tranny's, buggy's, and older vehicles..it definately cleans and it also lubes "to an extent"(oh man not another mmo v/s 2 cycle...that is not my intent of saying what I'm about to say and hope it doesn't grow into that same arguement.
The ultimate sought out pre-mix oil for racing in 2-strokes is finding a balance between protection and prevention of carbon build up(for less stuck rings and power-valve cleaning...maintainance)....In other words a clean/FULLY burning 2cycle oil that still ultimately protects at high rpm's(all 2 stroke oils are not equal by far...but they all have their purpose for particular applications).
I know my 12a isn't a 2-stroke but the principals still apply. I've heard the arguement about one oil being thicker than the other(Yamahalube is a very good oil and is as thin as mmo, Klotz is a very good oil but very, very thick and intended for higher reving and higher maintainance engines all-while leaving residue)...so the thickness arguement is funny(to me) because when you add 16oz of any oil w/10 gal of gas it totally breaks down to the same consistancy/thickness... dissolved into the gas evenly. So it's the additives and viscosity that does the deed...whether ultimately protecting and leaving residue OR protecting for your needs and cleanly burned leaving no residue(which is what I've found in Bel-Ray MC1)... to me leaving NO residue AND protection is what us rotary guys are looking for too). mmo is engineered to clean by the additives added and being that it's OIL based gives it a lubricating quality also...but not enough viscosity to be trusted "for me" to burn mmo only. Put it this way, I would never mix mmo only in my $8,000 race bike...it would blow up(probably while I was 20 feet up and traveling approx 40MPH ).
But adding a little mmo to the premix would be not only acceptable but probably a good thing(if mixed directly into the gas...not both mixed together in injection system). Any 2-cycle oil in combination with mmo(if you wish)will be good for a rotary(not that I'm a rotary expert). I just believe (and it is JMO...but based on experience)that when I put 50 hrs on a bike, tear it down and rings are gummed up but piston has not one score on it, and then use a different oil and tear down after 50 hrs and have no gum and piston has not one score on it then the second oil is the one I'm gonna use...And of course when you pull a cylinder off and have a smooth, bright shiney(worn) piston w/or w/out gum that is the oil I will not use(Pennsoil for one!)
So IMO I agree w/alot of peeps on here about 2-cycle pumped into the engine opposed to motor oil and adding a little mmo to the gas(if you're using a rezzy and pumping it in through the omp don't mix the mmo and the 2cycle oil together...two stroke oil is funny about foaming when introduced to other oils when being injected and I do not know why, sorry).
So my whole point is that everyone can do what they want but don't mix oils AND use a good quality 2cycle oil that burns clean(no castor oils), AND add a little mmo if you wish but I personally would not run mmo only...this is based on 2-stroke built-to-the-hilt race engines and me trying to apply the knowledge to rotary engines.

 

mazdatrix.com

order it buy the case or quart

bigmotoxer--thanks for all the info

 

i installed it yesterday. i found out that the line included with the tank is too big for the nipple on the OMP kit. it started a slow leak a few minutes after i installed it. so i pulled it off, drained all the indemitsu back into the bottle, took the kit off and im going to buy a smaller nipple for the tank tomorrow along with a new hose.

to mount it i used the bracket for the cold start resovoir and drilled holes into it. i test fitted it with the top hole and it wouldnt clear the hood so im using one bolt in the bottom hole and its holding firm.

here are pics of it installed before i removed it.

 

more pics

 

Damn that looks good!

 

yep that looks good...that rezzy rocks!