JDM 12A Turbo Electronics question
JDM 12A Turbo Electronics question
Asked Corksport about the JDM 12AT motor, got this response:
Hello Bryan,
The 12A turbo engine comes complete with the turbo, manifolds, injectors, etc. As for being drop in I would say no. You will need to get the EFI system up and running on the engine.
Thanks
Derrick
where would i find the EFI system for it? i already searched the forum for "12AT Electronics" but came with nothing.
Hello Bryan,
The 12A turbo engine comes complete with the turbo, manifolds, injectors, etc. As for being drop in I would say no. You will need to get the EFI system up and running on the engine.
Thanks
Derrick
where would i find the EFI system for it? i already searched the forum for "12AT Electronics" but came with nothing.
You would have to either get the JDM harness and ECU or get an aftermarket ECU. I think you would be best off with the aftermarket. The 12AT ECU is pretty simplistic from what I hear. Look into the MegaSquirt ECU. It is fairly cheap and will do everything you need it to do. You will need to wire it up and tune.
The original ecu is an analogue Nippondenso which will need repacing with a modern digital ecu.
The two options are going for a fuel only ecu like the Microtech LT4 and retaining the 12AT boast retard dizzy, or if you are going to seek 250+hp go for a fuel/ignition ecu like a Haltech. With an added FMIC you can go 12+psi boist, and for that you should have a fuel/ignition ecu as the stock dizzy gets marginal. Choose the brand of ecu that your local tuner can support as he will have the required map and can dyno tune.
The other essential change is to the fuel system as the original will require up-grading to cope with efi. Otherwise the 12AT is basically a bolt in modification. I would suggest a BOV and upgraded exhaust system. The 12AT has the late oilcooler, if you are dropping it into a SA keep to the FMOC as its better with the oil cooled turbo.
For reasonable power, say 200rwhp. you will need an FMIC. Above that will need two more injectors and a change to a larger turbo, plus the usual mods to clutch and flywheel.
The two options are going for a fuel only ecu like the Microtech LT4 and retaining the 12AT boast retard dizzy, or if you are going to seek 250+hp go for a fuel/ignition ecu like a Haltech. With an added FMIC you can go 12+psi boist, and for that you should have a fuel/ignition ecu as the stock dizzy gets marginal. Choose the brand of ecu that your local tuner can support as he will have the required map and can dyno tune.
The other essential change is to the fuel system as the original will require up-grading to cope with efi. Otherwise the 12AT is basically a bolt in modification. I would suggest a BOV and upgraded exhaust system. The 12AT has the late oilcooler, if you are dropping it into a SA keep to the FMOC as its better with the oil cooled turbo.
For reasonable power, say 200rwhp. you will need an FMIC. Above that will need two more injectors and a change to a larger turbo, plus the usual mods to clutch and flywheel.
Last edited by PaulFitzwarryne; Aug 4, 2006 at 08:14 PM.




