itty bitty light don't work
itty bitty light don't work
I got all my GSL's lights going except for that tiny one that illuminates the key switch. the bulb OHM's out ok, doesn't seem to be voltage at the cable connector. Haynes doesn't even show the thing.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Any ideas? Thanks!
Just a guess, but the little computer box that controls how long the light stays on for etc might be damaged. If you don't have any power at the end of the wire that could be the problem. I have no idea how to fix that though.
is there green crap in the connector when you unhook the mini-harness the bulb is on? That's the cause of almost all the itty bitty light probs I've experienced with 2 ReXes thus far. Emery board can be your friend.
Hey, does anyone have that light for the key on the drivers door? Does it actually work on your cars? What does it do? I mean, when does it come on? Is there even a light there? I was looking into the drivers door the other day (85 -SE), and noticed a wire harness that wasnt part of the power mirror assembly, and was wondering if thats like a door lock light or not, I dont know what else it could be for.
~T.J.
~T.J.
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Yeah, mine works. I like to brag about it because not many do still work. It comes on when the handle is lifted, and shuts off on a timer like the ignition light.
The ignition illuminator is timed off when the driver's door is opened. What do you mean OHMs out ok? Check the resistance between one of the wires and a ground and if you get high resistance, then there is probably a short in the wire.
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that's what he means, the Ohms are in spec.
The ignition switch illumination light on mine works.
Does your interior light come on when the driver's door is open? The frame-mounted switch inside the door often corrodes, but can be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with little difficulty.
The ignition switch illumination light on mine works.
Does your interior light come on when the driver's door is open? The frame-mounted switch inside the door often corrodes, but can be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with little difficulty.
By "ohms out" I meant the bulb is ok, I believe. The interior light comes on when the door is opened, I did clean the switches. Does the little bulb somehow connect to a timing circuit?
Hey sterling, what all cars were those on? Do you know? Were they only on GSL-SE's? Or were they on the GSL's also? Do you know what years? Just some interesting trivia for me to know later...
~T.J.
~T.J.
Since i'm to lazy to actually post and your talking about it when i switch my switch overhead to come on when the door is opened it doesnt come on the light works when i put it to on. 84 gsl-se.
thanx, Sweetege
thanx, Sweetege
The door handle sends a signal to the ecu to illuminate the key hole light and door lock light. Most common problem with door lock light is a broken wire to the bulb (inserted in a rubber grommet attached to the lock cylinder bracket). I've replaced 2 of these, part is still available from Mazda.
Look inside your door frame and lift he handle. You'll see it press down a metal bar onto a plunger. If not, replace whatever is missing/broken.
If this part is malfunctioning, neither of your lights will work.
jeryj
Look inside your door frame and lift he handle. You'll see it press down a metal bar onto a plunger. If not, replace whatever is missing/broken.
If this part is malfunctioning, neither of your lights will work.
jeryj
Ok, so, the ignition switch light is controlled by the ecu, right? Does it get its signal from the door switch (which is now working fine) or does it illuminate when the lights are on like the rest of the dash lights?
MAJOR DUH!! I'm afraid that, once again, I've wasted some of your time and forum space. Plugged the light in, opened the door, it works!
Then, after 30 seconds or so, it goes off like it's suposed to. Problem was:
1. Door switches needed cleaning.
2. After that, I was trying to get the light to come on, AFTER THE TIMER HAD SHUT THE LIGHT OFF!
*sigh* the RX-7 learning curve continues, thanks for all you help & patience with me!
Then, after 30 seconds or so, it goes off like it's suposed to. Problem was:1. Door switches needed cleaning.
2. After that, I was trying to get the light to come on, AFTER THE TIMER HAD SHUT THE LIGHT OFF!
*sigh* the RX-7 learning curve continues, thanks for all you help & patience with me!
Electrical problem in the overhead console where the light is, probably. I had that problem and it turned out the filiment in the bulb had snapped, yet would still make contact if bumped. I thought it was the wiring and spent 10 minutes trying to trace down which of the console wires was loose until I discovered the problem was in the bulb.
As to the originator of this post, I'm glad you discovered the problem with the door switches. Both of my car had corroded switches, but they come apart and clean easily enough.
As to the originator of this post, I'm glad you discovered the problem with the door switches. Both of my car had corroded switches, but they come apart and clean easily enough.
I still have intermittant no-work-when the-door-is-opened overhead light. The actual switches, (on-off-door) and maplight needed cleaning. That took care of it.
BTW, mantis, on the door switches, you said they came apart, I used sandpaper all around, but it might be better to do it your way. How'd they come apart?
BTW, mantis, on the door switches, you said they came apart, I used sandpaper all around, but it might be better to do it your way. How'd they come apart?
I removed the switches from the door frame (undo the two visible screws and disconnect the wire) Then just disassembled them as seemed logical. No manual proceedure or anything.
The metal housing/mount acts as the ground and the wire supplies power with a simple spring and post to connect the two when the plastic cap is released (door open)
It's been a few months but I think there were two plastic tabs to push in on to pop the plastic cap/switch out and everything else slides out once that part is released. Just remember the order and manner they go back in.
The metal housing/mount acts as the ground and the wire supplies power with a simple spring and post to connect the two when the plastic cap is released (door open)
It's been a few months but I think there were two plastic tabs to push in on to pop the plastic cap/switch out and everything else slides out once that part is released. Just remember the order and manner they go back in.
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Hey sterling, what all cars were those on? Do you know? Were they only on GSL-SE's? Or were they on the GSL's also? Do you know what years? Just some interesting trivia for me to know later...
~T.J.
Hey sterling, what all cars were those on? Do you know? Were they only on GSL-SE's? Or were they on the GSL's also? Do you know what years? Just some interesting trivia for me to know later...
~T.J.
I've had two 85 GSs, and both had working key tumbler illumination lights. The first car, with 57K on it , sstopped working.
My DD, 71K, still works. In posing the "how do I fix..." question two years ago on Mazspeed.com, I was shocked to see that few people had this working.
Many did'nt know about it.
I suspect it was on all the later cars only, and probably all models?
....And it always seems to fail sooner or later.
Last edited by Sterling; Jul 29, 2002 at 07:29 AM.




