The base is about the size of a dime.

 

BTW, it came with my carburetor

 

your only supposed to show a little part of it and not give any hints. but is it missing something?

 

No, no, I need to know what it is! lol

 

hahahaaha, i thought this was gonna be another trivia thread. either way I have no idea, what kind of carb is it?

 

Dude its the Vtec valve for your naws port.

 

Are you serving a purpose right now, tj?

It's a stock Nikki, rebuilt and shipped to me.

No clue what that part is though. It was just in the box?

 

Don't know what it is but where did you get the nikki carb from...and how much was it...i need one...mine is leaking gas.....

 

Accelerator pump without the rubber diaphragm.

 

So, is it something that needs to be in there?

OnlyonThurs, I bought mine from a fellow forum member, BKM_RX7. You can try autozone, though, if you don't wanna buy forum style. They sell them for $300 O__O

Usually they can be had at around $100, shipped, newly rebuilt.

 

so you got the carb in a box, and that part was just lying in the box?

 

That's about the gist of it. It was packaged real nice, don't get me wrong, but all the bolts and nuts and whatnot were just loose, along with this thingy.

 

yarr, he be right!

yeah... you need that in your carb

 

Any help on where to put it?

It's a pump? It doesn't PUMP though?

 

told you it was missing something!

i'm sure if you bought it that it is probably just a left over piece. when you rebuild one you get a new one. slap the carb on and see if it works good. if thats not in there when you step on the gas there will be no sudden burst of gas. know what i mean. you will know if its not there. or you can look at the engine side of the carb, there is a little box looking thing with 4 screws holding it on. also has a lever rod connected to it. when you step on the gas the lever rod pushes the accelerator pump wich is inside the box wich shoots a good stream of gas to the primaries in order to fill the void of the carb opening.

 

Well, that's the problem. The carb DOESN'T work good. Well, it does, but, it doesn't start the engine. And my gas pedal does nothing. Just sort of flops around

 

I was just talking to the guy. Showed him a picture. Said he'd never seen that before.

 

well, that will have nothing to do with your gas pedal flopping around. don't know if it would have anything to do with starting either, it might though. if your pedal is flopping around, have you checked on your linkage at the carb and at the pedal.

 

Actually, yeah, it's the linkage. I had all four linkages all screwed up (still can't find where the fourth one attaches) but was told that I only need accelerator and choke?

As for the starting, I just. Don't. Know. Getting rather frustrated.

The last carb I had refused to take in fuel. This one takes it in, and doesn't do anything with it.

Bah

 

well, looks like one, but i just took one out of a nikki, and its not one. so good luck on trying to figure it out. it's probably just something that was dropped in by accident.

 

I'm beginning to wonder. Oh well. I'll just leave it in the armrest until I need it (wether it be to get the car running, or to gouge my own eyes out next time I try something that doesn't work at getting the car started)

 

You really only need the accelerator linkage working. The choke is optional, depending on how cold it is when you try to start it. I have only the choke and accel linkages hooked up and it starts fine year-round.

Have you started from step one on getting the car started? I assume you've verified that you have spark.

Does the engine turn over fast? You need it to in order to get it to start up. If you're not sure, try a jumpstart. If that works, you've narrowed it down to battery, starter wiring and starter.

Do you have fuel in the float bowls? If yes, then move the accel pump linkage by hand. You should see good squirts of fuel coming from the nozzles in the primaries.

Have you messed with the air/fuel mix screw? If so, gently screw it in until it stops. Gently is important cuz if you do it too hard you'll mess the tip and it'll never idle right. After it's closed completely, back it out about 3 turns (default). Unless you've got vacuum leaks, this setting should be just fine to get the car started and running. The idle set screw should be 4 - 5 turns from closed at this point.

Take a good look at Pele's no-start thread in the FAQ section.

Good luck!

In case you can't tell, I've been through this before. It took daaaays to get mine started after I rebuild the carb. Very frustrating. Ask my wife.

 

Well, I'm jumping it from my truck.

The engine turns over at anywhere from 500-1500 ish RPM

Fuel is in the bowls

I haven't touched the mixture screw, but I'm thinking I should reset it.

I've looked through the no-start. Seems like it has everything BUT my problem.

I even tried spraying some starter fluid in there.

I've been working this problem for weeks now

 

Oh, btw, I KNOW the battery is dead. When I first got it, I thought the 'headlight down' switch would turn the headlights off. Whoah am I now that I find out how wrong I was, lol.

Also, I put them back up, and they won't go back down.

Thanks for all y'alls help!

 

Has it ever started?

Ever done a compression test?

You sure you don't have a massive vacuum leak?

Open the hood after trying to start it. Smell gas?