a real HID kit for our 7" pop up rounds would be great. Again the simpler the better...plug and play.

I am an idiot at mechanics...I want to buy a kit and swap it out with simple tools and be done with it.

I was planning on doing the HELLA or IPF H4 conversion which is great and all..but it is not a true HID kit with ballasts etc. So that and fender flares that work!

 

If you did the conversion headlights, you can get an HID kit with H4 bulbs, IIRC.

 

Anothe vote for flush headlights. Also spend some time on 79-80 front air dam and rear apron. Plenty for 81-85 but not the SA.
Kris

 

plus plus for bolt on fender flares

 

here's my wishlist ...

i love my pop-up lights just fine.

- master cylinder brace
- a strut tower brace to compete with the RB unit (for better pricing )
- solid or polyurethane/graphite =whatever motor & tranny mounts
- a 16-gallon fuel tank that will accept FC or FD fuel pump setup and bolt in stock location
- a decent brake ducting kit for stock-bodied cars
- 6.5 inch wheels of the stock "+" design
- a 3.8X:1 rear set
- reliable carbon driveshaft
- a tasteful front diffuser to work with stock bodywork


that's all i can think of for now ... i know i had a few ideas about the interior, but i can't think of them right now.

 

VERY interested in HID kit for the factory pop-ups.

 

I just wanted to mention something for some of you guys:

You do realize that if you want to use bolt on fender flares you will have to cut the metal of the stock fender lips off right?

That is if you want to be able to utilize them appropriately. I will cut that **** no problem as long as the flares are tasteful and do not take much away from the original design of the car. I just need the space for tires and wheels. More tire means more speed in the corners. Also they need to be reasonably priced so when I break them. Yes I will I promise! Then I can buy new ons. i vote for ABS since it's cheap as hell and I know I'll just break them anyways. Then I can buy new ones once or twice a year. Also they should be available individually or in a front and rear set or something so when just one is damage you're not buying a whole set everytime.

I would add about 2 inches to the front and 3 inches to the rear. I also vote for the exposed fastener style as it looks a lot more purposful and less like your going to the fashion show.

Something needs to be done to the headlights. Not sure if flush or pop up or whatever, but something. Oh I know make a kit that moves the retractor motors to the inner fenders so i can have more room in the engine bay. A better looking engine bay and the weight can be lower to the ground since we are already screwed being that the weight is already in front of the axle. And make the whole thing out of fibre or abs or something then it's lighter and then you can make a whole new motor assembly that can be lighter and more compact and cheaper yet again. Greatly reducing the weight and cost of everything. The damn headlight lids are $100 each for gods sake. So if you have a tiny dent you need $100 dollars to make you headlight less *** like. It's stupid. It';s almost completely flat it will be easy.

Also door panels that don't suck and look like crap and are broken. Carbon fibre would be great. Whatever do it out of fibreglass or abs and then its cheap and paintable.

I also offer my GSL-SE parts car for you use if your in CA. Take it and make stuff so then you have a SA and FB at your disposal.

I'll shut it now! Thanks. I have a million ideas!

I suck at typing fast.

 

Um, our motors are behind the front wheels, which is how we get the near perfect 50/50 weight balance.

 

Yup I know that I have to cut my stock fenders for flares...isnt that the point?

the main problem is the arent any that FIT good and have readily available. There are like one or two places...or you have to modify from a 240Z.

I want fender flares that and idiot like me can install...basically a plug and play install...and I can have an "expert" do the actual cutting of the metal. I just want fit and finish to be perfect. And yes I LOVE the exposed rivets look....I would not want to flush my flares...I want the bolts or rivets exposed!

 

• A CF hood that is a cross between the N-1 and 'Vette 427 designs.
• 2 or 3 gauge A-pillar pod that replaces the entire interior piece, driver side with gauges, passenger side completely smooth, stock dimensions.
• Rear bumper replacement with 3 vane diffuser going halfway up the belly of the gas tank.

 

The diffuser would be a nice thing. I'd take one.

 

Looks that kill is useless without the speed.

 

By speed, do you mean what you take when you wake up in the morning or what your old skool does?

 

My wish list:

* Strong - race proven if possible - Lug pattern adapters that would allow me to fit 4x100MM wheels for more wheel choices. Make a kit that adapts 4X110 and 4X114.3 OE patterns

* Repair parts for the OE steering boxes. The Rack and Pinion conversions are not compatible with the racing rules that most us are bound by.

* Stainless steel headers

* Stainless steel exhaust parts - over the axle mandrel bends in 2.5" and 3"

* Stainless steel heat shields that use the top two header studs.

* A high quality low pressure regulator that will work with a Niki and or a Weber when using 5-7PSI high volume fuel pumps. I have had allot of trouble with Holley regulators.

Thanks for asking!

 

i second this ...

 

Definitely would like to see some custom tail lights, but I think it would be hard to make ones that would still look good with the 1st gen lines and not look like the stock ones...

And if you came out with an RX-8 inspired dash that would fit in a FB, you would be my god... kind of like that Japanese SA with the renesis in it... but i doubt that would ever happen...

oh, just thought of something else, a TII style vented c/f hood! I don't think FIBREMAZ is ever gonna make one like that... but it'd be sweet...

 

I also vote for this diffuser. I would buy one in a second. Obviously a CF hood would be great too! Vented or not I don't care just make one.

Some side mirrors that don't suck. i hate the stock ones. At least some like thouse little APR ones I think that's who makes them the little ones with the skinny post that you see on GT cars and drift cars. They are sometime CF with aluminium parts.

 

Your not too keen on the rotational inertis thing are you. Any weight outside the axles is bad for everything. Just like any weight on the roof is super bad. Why do you think an EVO MR has an aluminium roof.

I also vote for a better bracket/mounting plate for a buddy club / odessey sized battery. I kinda have mine between the radiator and driver's side headlight retractor. I may move it lower and further back though as it only weighs like 12lbs but still in front of the axle and only on one side of the car. Maybe between the radiator and engine down low. Not sure yet.

 

duckbill front spoiler for the sa!!!

 

And one with a boost-reference for a blow-through Weber or Nikki setup.

 

Explain to me rotational inertia and how it applies to the 7.

 

Reverse vented hood is far more beneficial to SA/FB's than a forward facing scoop. A front mount IC (even if it's 2 TII coolers welded together) is better in every way than standard top mount IC. I like to make stuff that works and looks good

 

HID kits for the pop ups

carbon fiber hoods fenders, and fender flares

fiber glass hoods fenders and fender flares

one peice front end

roll cages

lexan window kits front side to side and rear side to side and the rear window

 

Ya, I dig the dual lights on the FD, like the pic of the corvette above.
FB setup similiar to that pleez!

 

i want side mirrors like this. and i like those dual lamp headlights if you did that would they be hid's? Haven heard this but can you make new targa bands?