MG-X7

First of all, I'll start with the question.

I have a 4 port 13B and am removing the heater from my car. Currently the return line from the heater goes to bottom right (looking at the engine from the front of the car) of the engine block. I'll need to cap this and would like to use a plug on the block, not just plug the line. Any suggestions on what to use (i.e. brass?) or the size of the fitting?

Now for the introduction. The engine is a 4 port 13B streetport, Carter 625 AFB carb, custom header going into a mazda racing presilencer with a borla stainless muffler. This is mated to a 1980 5-speed trans.

The car is not an RX, but rather a 1977 MGB convertible. I figured it made the most sense to post in the 1st gen section since that mostly what my drivetrain is. I've been lurking for awhile now, and have learned a lot from what I've read. This seems like a very well organized and well behaved BBS.

Thanks for the space and the time.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I usually call it a forum, but welcome! I have an MG Midget that a local shop installed a '73 12A into it in the late '80s. I got it and installed a '74 13B a couple years ago.

As for the heater core fitting, what type of 13B do you have? In other words, can you tell me which cast iron side plates your engine has? You have three choices. Well four, but we're not counting the T2 stuff right now. Your three choices are 3B, R5 (nitrided or non) and Y.

My 13B has 3B plates dating from '74-'75 and the heater core tube could be replaced with a screw-in plug from Racing Beat. The Y plates have pressed-in fittings which are either short and straight or longer with a T for the beehive (oil to water) oil cooler. R5 are also screw-in, but are typically longer. Since there are several variations of four port 13Bs, Please tell me as much as you can about yours.

By the way, look under your oil filter pedestal and tell me if it has a rib leading down to the dowel pin. If you don't know what I'm talking about, that's ok.

web777

BBS? Wow that's old school! Anyways you can always ghetto rig a short hose with a bolt blocking off that opening. BTW, I don't remember a coolant line on the bottom right of any rotary, just oil lines???

MG-X7

I know it's screw in, and I'm 75% sure it's the 3B plates. I can double check the engine build sheet when I get home and also take some pictures of the inlet. The engine was assembled by a race shop in the late 90's and the rotor irons and the other sections (forgive my noobness, I always forget proper terminology) are from different years.

Here's some pics I have handy, but as luck would have it none show the inlet.

http://www.freechicagoclassifieds.co...es/engine1.jpg

http://www.freechicagoclassifieds.co...es/engine2.jpg

http://www.freechicagoclassifieds.co...es/engine3.jpg

Jeff20b, I've read many of your posts and will be soon doing the direct fire upgrade and hopefully with some of the other work I'm doing it'll improve the idle and throttle response.

Also, since you mentioned you have a midget with a 13b I'll ask another question directed to you. What radiator are you running? I'm having a hard time locating a decent priced one that'll fit in the small MG's. I currently run the stock MGB radiator, but I fear getting stuck in traffic with it some day.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Your intermediate is not a 3B. Your rear plate has the rib so it's not a Y. Do you know if your plates are nitrided?

Have you seen any pictures of my MG's engine bay? You can sort of see the direct fire stuff.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...e=post&id=7734

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...e=post&id=7728

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...e=post&id=7727

Mine has a stock two row core '79-'82 1st gen radiator. The side mounts have been trimmed, as well as parts of the MG's radiator supports.

I don't have any current pictures. I also don't know if the current setup will run cool enough to use since the carb is on a rebuilt 13B in my REPU. I removed the crummy fan in front of the rad and installed a 10" puller fan behind. I was going to try to get the MG running this summer, but my 20B is taking up all my free time.

purple82

He he he, bungie chords.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Especially when you pluck them.

MG-X7

Here's what I have from the build sheet. Wasn't able to get a pic yet tonight, haven't had time to run to the garage. Only in chicago would your garge be 3 blocks from your apartment.

Engine iron side housings - 1980 RX7
Engine rotor housings and rotors - '74-'75 RX4 or rotary pickup

Hopefully that makes some sense, it's directly off the letter from the original engine builder.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You may infact have R5 plates. I've sen a few 12As with them, but I couldn't tell if they were infact nitrided due to years of dirt/oil buildup.

Is there an oil pressure sender hole below the oil filter? I noticed you have a Racing Beat oil pressure and temperature adaptor between your filter pedestal and the rear plate. '80 and probably '79 did not have oil pressure guages. Niether did all the nitrided R5 plates I've ever seen (I've seen at least 7 or 8 different R5 rear plates recently... also be sure to ask Elysian about the rear plate in his blue REPU). I decided to drill and tap some NPT threads in one of my R5 plates as an experiment. It actually worked. The other option if the engine is already togther is to drill and tap the banjo bolt at the bottom of the plate on the oil line. I also have a temp and pressure adaptor in case I need it for something. Luckily my 3B plate in the MG had a 45º fitting already in it which fits the stock guage line perfectly. Too bad it looks like it has a slow leak at the plate though (stock thread is BSP and a little smaller than NPT so when it comes time to rebuild this engine, I'll most likely chase the threads with an NPT so they'll be compatible with my new 45º fitting). The engine also has other slow leaks at the front and rear eccentric seals and OMP. It needs a rebuild to freshen up all the seals and get a another set of rotor housings to replace the flaking chrome one is got right now. I also need to replace the cruddy NO intermediate (from an '80 EGR model) with a correct 3B plate. Ah, what fun it is.

gonzz

How can you tell if thr R5 plates are nitrated or not? What's the best to use? Just wondering before I buy some