Ok i installed my new brake master cyl yesturday wanna know if I made a mistake. I went ahead and got the SE one since I am plaining on doing the SE swap. The problem i am having is the brakes still aren't bleeding right. I bleeed the passengers rear serveral times and never got a good filling in the brake pedal. Checked for leaks none found could my booster be bad? My roommate will be working so I dont know when I ll have a chance to try and bleed the brakes agian.

 

Hey when bleeding make sure you start from the furthest brake and then work your way to the shortest brake which will be the drivers side front brake. The bleeding sequence should be rear passenger brake, rear driver brake, front passenger brake, and front driver brake. Also when changing out the master cylinder you must bleed all 4 brakes to be sure that all air is out of the system.

 

Hey Did You Bench Bleed The Master Cylinder Before You Installed It? And If You Want To Check The Brake Booster For Leaks Heres How You Do It.
1. Turn Car On And Press Brakes
2. Turn Car Off And Pump Brakes; The Pedal Should Gradually Get Harder If This Happens Then There Is Nothing Wrong With The Booster If The Pedal Is Hard As Soon As You Step On The Pedal The First Time Then There Is A Leak .
If You Did Not Bleed The Master Cylinder Take It Off Again And Bleed It.

 

Bleed the master cyl? Do you mean prime it? If so yes I did prime it.

 

how long did you bleed it for? sometimes if you have a not so great brake pedal guy (helper) then this could happen. I keep wanting to get the speed bleeder check valves on all 4 calipers as this must be soooo easy.

 

Speed bleeders arent a cure-all.
I have them on my brakes and they are only effective for heavy flushing of the system.I always final bleed my system with a helper.If you open the speed valves too much,they leak around the threads,destroying the ball-check's system of keeping air from drawing back in on the up-stroke.If you only open them a little,the bleeding is very slow and you might not be able to fully purge the air from a dry system or one that need lots of bleeding,like during a M/C change.

You really,really should bench bleed a M/C before install.Not just prime it with fluid,but actually run the outlets back into the resevoir, and full stroke the cylinder many times,to ensure that all the air is out of the bore and the outlet ports.That way,the only air you have to purge from the system,is the small amount present when you re-attach the hardlines to the new M/C.Getting a large amount of air to purge out from all the body lines and through the prop. valve can be frustrating,if not impossible sometimes.

The M/C can be bench bled on the car,just dont do it with the body hardlines attached.Or you can just loosen the hardlines at the M/C and let some of the air escape from there when you push the pedal.This way is messier,but it might get enough of the air out so that you can push the remainder down the lines.The less air you have to force to the end of the system(the brakes), the easier it will be to get your pedal feel back.

 

Ahh bench bleeding the master cylinder. Forgot to mention that earlier when I posted.

 

Any Thing On The Brakes?

 

Nope not working on it today working on a rebuild for a friend .

 

Well Wen I Say Bleed The Master Cyl I Mean Bleed The Master Cyl You Have To Pump It With A Rod Usually A Phillips Screw Driver Wrapped In A Rag As To Not Damage The Rubber Any Way You Pump The Cyl And Watch Fluid Come Out. Do This Over And Over Untill You Are Sure There Is No Air Left In The Cyl.

 

My friend and I got the brakes fixed re bleed all of them went through 3 bottles of brake fluid. Good thing I work at an oil change place.

 

Atleast the system is flushed now which is supposed to be done every 30k or 2 years.

 

Yea thats the only fluid I hadnt replaced but now every thing is good.