iceblue

So heres my amp install. I will put the headunit in and convert the RCA back over to it when I come off the cash on ebay for it.

Then I have not decided if I am going to fiberglass a box or just make a new one.

I need a new sub too I blew my 10 a while ago when it was in my FE.

iceblue

Max7

Change that ground!!! Run is to the seat belt bolt. Don't use it the way you have it or problems will occur!

Nice documentation! and nice wiring otherwise

iceblue

I don't think I should realy have any probs with it. I will see if I can make it fit there anyways. Perhaps you know something I don't.

samtuck

second that. you need a good, clean ground for your amp, just isn't the same without it. I don't really like those connectors at all. I found one setup for the ground on my head unit when I got my car.

nick1

nice amp!...just make sure you run the rca cables on the pass. side so you don't get any noise interference

iceblue

That is a very clean ground. The only difference is the amount of immediate mass of the bolt and nutt. They both transfer to the same gauge sheet metal.

nick1 - Thank's for the tip!

Hades12

Yes, Yes he does.


Now go change that ground.



What is the green box with the speakers wired to it? Line input converter?

GavinJuice

on the 4th and 5th picture from the bottom, whats with the tapping into the speakers wires and the green box?

iceblue

Yes it is a line converter.

I can assure you the continuity is the same. Having a giant bolt can give a false sense a security.

GavinJuice - I have the OEM radio right now so it converts the high output to RCA.

Hades12

Its your stuff so you do what you want But that is not a good ground. the metal is only connected to the car by a couple of screws and they are real bad to rust.

iceblue

Actually it is connected to the car by spot welds down the entire wall to the sub frame the rockers and quarter. They are all welded together. The screw is only holding it against the metal and transferring it to the sheet. You get a little less transfer to the sheet unless you scrape the paint off as you would compare to the seat belt bolt.

You should think really hard and then trace out the whole cars electrical system and follow the ground from the battery. Then think about how the to bolts get grounded.

Girth of metal means nothing in DC voltage, amount of mass is what makes it.

There is zero rust on my car.

Just to be clear sorry for the mix up. I did not notice that pic was during my test power up. The connector is in-between the two pieces of metal with the paint scraped off with di electrical grease coating it.

It kickes the metal up so I think I will spray that area with primer and sealer and do the same just below the metal pan.

Hades12

So you are saying that it is NOW not screwed into the Sheeting of the NOT bins section?

Max7

Screws don't hold or clamp as well as bolts. Like power, Ground will take the path of least resistance. The amp will draw more current than anything else in your car. I feel safer knowing mine is on a very solid part of the car that won't change over time. If you could lock the screw and tie down the wire from movement it would be better.

Nice amp btw. where is it mounted?

Hades12

I always use 2AWG for my gound and then 4 for the Power. Just to make sure

iceblue

Yea very sorry for that mix up on location. I know exactly what you are saying MAX7. It is securely against the cars sheet metal not that gay piece laying over it with a few screws.

I have an SA so I do not have bins. It is mounted exactly where you’re bin lid would be. The dual output is in the middle because I thought it would be nice to show it off. When I add an AMP for my speakers I will do the same thing behind other seat. Should look much bettor.

Hades12

We can tell that you have an 80, the first pic shows that.

iceblue

Yea it is an 80.

Yea after the test I moved the wire in-between that silver panel and the car metal itself. After I stated this I was feeling unhappy because it budged the sheet metal some.

So what I just did was drill a hole below it. I sanded the paint off where the connector lays and took a 10mm bolt and nut. I cleaned these on the wire wheel. I coated each contact with di-electrical grease; I then bolted the bolt through the metal with the ring connector in-between. Here is a pic.



Sorry for arguing without checking that.

Max7

Looks good! now time for an alternator upgrade with that beast behind the seat!

I've seen it all in my time, seen one where they ran 2ga out the hood into the door under the seats to the amp laying on the backseat. Then they had 18ga speaker wire for ground going to the ground on the interior lights! Oh what fun that was to look at.....

iceblue

LMAO I hear you! Lights go dimy dim and wires over heat. The ground should be = or very close to = the power. Mine are 4ga with a 2ga power main lead.

I am thinking FC alt. I don't want to put to much money in here right now; the FC will die if I take money away from it.

After the FC yea I will put a rack and pinion and rims and rear disks and stuff. Who knows maybe I will get the itch before then. Just the FC is my project car and this is my driver lol.

Evry time I open the hood I say. It will only take like 2 hrs to pull the engine and redo the bay. Then I say well if its out lets street port it. Then I say well hell if I am going to do that I should of just turbod it instead of selling that crap off. So I close the hood and go do something else ;-) But I did fab a CAI for it “pics coming soon” This came about because I ran over the OEM filter setup ;-(

Max7

I love this statement!!! been there done that