Hey Bob do you have a wiring diagram for the 2nd gen coil wiring with the resistor position
I'm thinking of trying it on my ice racer this winter
Don

 

Sorry Don I don't have a diagram. The resistor simply goes on the + line into the coil. It's really that simple.

 

How reliable is this going to be? I have this apart and ready to put in my car, just in like 5 hours of reading millions of posts and looking at the coil and the resister. I have to get it by my dad, because I don't want to blow my ignitor, because I don't have any extra laying around anymore.

 

I have about 2500 miles on this setup so far and it's worked flawlessly. If you intend to do this mod or even not, I would highly recommend removing your ignitors to clean and re-apply heat-sink compound to the backs of them. The original heat-sink compound installed at the Mazda factory is surely dried up and worthless at this point.

 

Ok, I am still not sure if I want to jeopardize my system just yet. Maybe after a few more have done it, or I go get some spare ignitors, because thats about all that would go wrong correct? Nothing else really could. And what is the advantage of running the trailing through the leading prongs of the dizzy? Can I just leave them on the stock trailing posts, and not touch the trailing at all?

 

I've been wondering the same thing about changing the trailing over to the leading positions on the dizzy. Why do this?

Brian

 

Take a look at the dizzy cap and rotor. The leading spark only has one air gap to jump before it reaches the spark plugs whereas the trailing has two. That's because the leading post in the center of the cap has a carbon contact that goes straight down to the rotor. Less air gaps means better spark.

 

Thank you much. I thought I'd seen something about better spark before, but went looking at other related threads and couldn't find it. I just hate doing things without knowing the reasoning behind them just because someone said so. Tragic flashbacks of childhood...


Me: "Can I go play next door?
Mom: "No."
Me: "Why not?"
Mom: "Cause I said so."
Me: "kjhdfs$%$^*(&LKJDFS" Storm off to my room.


Brian

 

Update. I finally blew out the leading ignitor on my 3rd gen coil setup. It was on the last practice session of the day at streets of willow springs raceway. I guess a whole day of racing was too much for the ignitor to handle. I popped another ignitor in and its been fine for a couple weeks now.

 

I'll give my own form of update. Been running a 2nd gen leading coil on my 12a for about 3000 miles, love how easy it is to start and seems to pull very nicely, but yesterday the car started running very funny. No power at all, revved okay with no load, okay idle. Guess what, blown coil!!! Power at positive and negative of coil, but no spark. Quick question, can too small a guage of wire cause a coil to not get sufficient power and burn itself out? So, now looking for another 2nd gen coil, but don't want to pay 50 or more like some people want. To the junkyard I guess, unless I want to switch to true dual coil leading setup. I have all the parts, just have to make the setup and find a place to mount the coils.
By the way, I switched the ignitors and used my trailing coil to run the leading plugs, and I can't feel any difference. But I hate seeing those naked plugs on the engine.

 

Perhaps I'm missing something... but exactly how does the coil know when to fire, since the dizzy it now out of the picture (for leading at least), what is controlling it now?

 

the pickups in the dizzy still trigger the igniter just the same
just then with direct fire, there is no dizzy to separate the front and rear rotors leading sparks,

 

damn. would it be easier to run a 2nd gen coil rather than the blaster 2 coils? and wich would be better?