Quick update. Turned up idle speed screw slightly. Seemed to help some. On vacation back East currently. Plan to work on it some before an SCCA event near me this coming Sunday. If I can stabilize the issue with idle and mixture screws adjustments, or find the mystery vacuum leak, or just live with blockage in current carb... I might auto x it.

I appreciate the mountain of good advice. I will keep posting with updates. I have access to FSM manuals so it helps getting some real world advice also.

As strong as it runs, I may run it anyway; issue would only occur leaving timing box.

 

Well work on idle and mixture setting on carb on Saturday evening. It appears that the suspected vacuum issue did not exist; thanks for the tips on hunting them down. It drove much better. Think issue is carb related.

So I went to autocross on Sunday. Had a blast. Such a fun car for autocross as expected.

 

Quick Question -- I'm slapping this back together after putting the RB system on. On the air control valve block off plate, what did you do about the extra long bolts? Got an 84 GSL-SE, and there's 3 bolts: 1 coming out of the motor, and 2 that come out. All of these are too long. I can prob round up couple of shorter, but what did you all use for the one that stays in the motor? Lots of washers?

Also, right past the header presilencer join, the presilencer is touching the upper heat shield. What's the minimum clearance I need? I don't think I'll be able to get 1/2 inch -- 1/4 will be pushing it.

Thanks

 

Ok mine was a 12A in a GS. I went to Lowe's and got three shorter bolts to replace the one that attach the ACV to manifold. With your being a 5 letter you might have a different ACV valve set-up; I know that there is connection with RB system for 5 letter cars for ports.

I would loosen and retighten all bolts again so that you have clearance; several good tips in some early post on this thread... look for post by GSLSEforme and chuyler1.

To be honest not too familiar with 5 letter Fbs; always had GS models.

 

I've got some notes printed out that GSLSEFome gave me couple weeks back, and very useful, but the bolt issue wasn't mentioned. The top bolt remains in the motor, like a threaded shaft - how did you replace that one?

On clearance, I think I've read 1/2" clearance, maybe from RB, or Mazdatrix, but I don't see how that's gonna be possible. I've beat & banged on that particular spot already, and I don't think it come can move much more without tearing.

 

Not positive but I think I have seen other post that mention using vice-grips and removing the threaded shaft. Might want to just give Racing Beat a call to confirm. Mazdatrix told me the correct size and length bolts (I actual used SS flat head screws) to put on ACV block off.

I do not have any clearance issues, have heard other had to loosen and tighten a few times to get clearances. If you are doing by yourself, use a jack to help get resonator section in position then tighten bolts.

 

I can try the vise grips -- the last 3/4 inch of shaft closest to motor doesn't have threads, so can't hurt much (famous last words). I think I can round up some short bolts if I can get past shaft issues.

I've got all the pieces in place, and although I've not completely tightened header to presilencer - just finger tight, the problem will worsen, it seems to me, when I do tighten, as it will bring the presilencer closer to the front where it will be rubbing the top heat shield.

 

For the ACV, I had a few nuts that were slightly bigger, I dropped those on the shaft then used the original nut to tighten it. Not the best solution, but it worked.

For the heat shields. I banged a few spots out of the way. I'm not sure what particular section you're talking about but as long as it doesn't touch with the exhaust at its resting position and you can't jiggle it and get it to touch, I'd consider the clearance fine. Put a few miles on it and see if there are any marks from it making contact.

 

thanks chuyler -- you've also given me some good advise in the past - much appreciated.

I'll be coming back, probably, to get answers when I go to fix the mess that the shock shop left me in - more details later

 

one project at a time

 

k4,i used a 6mm stud extractor to remove this stud. You can source/use two 6mmx1.0 mm nuts. Thread them both onto stud and tighten snugly against each other. Use wrench on innermost nut and extract stud. Three 6mmx1.0mmx16mm flange head bolts is what i used to install ACV blockoff plate and gasket. 1/4" clearance is sufficient from exh. parts to heat shield. I recall removing presilencer section to get accesss to bend/shape heat shield in area you speak of.

 

That worked like a charm GSLForme. Only thing left is find me 2 plugs and get more clearance.

On the OEM hanger that uses the doughnut -- I can't see how they'd be used now - correct?

 

Correct,saved all that stuff in the event of oe reinstall.

 

everything on mine past the manifold was rusted to the point of being scrap

 

On the bright side,you don't have a bunch of "stuff" upstairs in garage taking up space like i do,lol.

 

sounds like a treasure chest to me

 

Sounds like you're close to a test drive...

 

My girl says "what'sthat crap?! Why are you saving that stuff"...

 

Yeah, I should be -- I took and had the front struts, springs, bushings, tie rods, idler arm, and front bearings done right before I started on everything else. I outsourced that because was faster, and I didn't have the tool to compress the spring, nor a press for bearing, & would need a front end alignment. I got started on the header project, and noticed the difference in top bolts of each strut, then checked the clearance on each side from top of tire to bottom of fender - about an inch difference on each side. So, that's gotta get redone - I can redo myself now, except for new alignment. And, once I jacked it up, noticed that front wheels are way too tight -- will NOT spin, so I gotta losen up the wheel bearing. Only put about 5 miles on it since that was done, so I'm guessing no damage yet. THEN, I'm ready for a test drive. I'm just hoping to get everything done by Deals Gap time.

 

was hoping to get a paint job on it before then, but that's out of the question now -- may have time to get the 2 nickel-size rust spots fixed

 

I've not got to test all of the rear suspension stuff yet either - put on new links and watts setup, RB springs, tokiko shocks and stab bar bushings and links. I can't wait to take for a drive

 

Sorry to hear about the substandard work,not certain what you're referring to by clearance... make sure your calipers aren't dragging leaving brakes partially applied before you adjust wheel bearings. Take caliper off and see if wheel spins freely.

 

on clearance, I was referring to the distance between top of tire and bottom of outer fender.

Great headsup on caliper thought -- I will check that. Front brakes were done at same time, so I will check.

 

Does car look like it sits level? On the calipers, sometimes when new pads are installed,problems arise. The caliper piston has to be retracted into bore of caliper to accomodate thickness of new pads. There is an outer dust seal that due to age may be split which allows road dirt/grit/moisture to get into caliper and corrode piston and caliper bore. When piston is pushed back that crud gets pushed into the caliper seal,also after so many years the void in caliper behind piston gets a lot of sludge,rust built up both conspiring to make piston not want to slide smoothly back and forth. The caliper seal also slightly twists on brake apply and relaxes when brakes released. This allows the piston to move back slightly so there is no brake drag. Lastly is the caliper mount which has channels machined into it to locate the pads & antirattle hardware ,these should be thoroughly cleaned of rust and lubricated with silicone brake grease. Rust can cause pads to **** in holder,or jam up and not allow clean brake apply and release. In pics the round accordion seal is dust seal,round square sided seal is caliper hydraulic seal.

 

Forgot to mention the pivot/slider pin. Same deal,corrosion can cause this to not move smoothly contributing to caliper bind,brake drag.