1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Install of RB full exhaust, tips and advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-13-17, 11:38 AM
  #76  
Always entertaining

iTrader: (2)
 
swbtm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 815
Received 58 Likes on 40 Posts
Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Pretty frustrated with this site about now,have posted about this previously. Put some time into writing a reply to help someone here,try to submit,only to have a screen come up and tell me i can't because i'm not logged in-which i am. When i login as prompted,response is gone. 3 times to rewrite response to '80 with 6-port engine thread AND when posted,everything jammed together,just like this thread. Doesn't happen til i submit a post...
Adding this here since I have the same issue and I can be long winded. I've resorted to writing up my entire post in word or textpad including image links. Then I sign in, copy the entire thing from word/textpad/wordpad into the box and submit. Only good that that came from loosing paragraphs of writing is I got a second and third chance to think about what I was trying to say. So, some good came of it.

As for RB exhausts, I really like mine. On my 12a is has been described as the transforming sound from transformers as it gets up in revs. One suggestion... don't sand blast and paint the entire thing like my younger self did. It really isn't needed, SS does just fine on its own, dummy (to younger me).
Old 04-14-17, 10:36 AM
  #77  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)
 
chuyler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 1,079
Received 67 Likes on 57 Posts
Originally Posted by k4adams
thanks chuyler -- you've also given me some good advise in the past - much appreciated.
No problem. I'm no expert, I'm just a few steps ahead of you on my build. Speaking of which, once you get up and running with your new exhaust the next thing you're going to notice is belt squeal at high RPM, especially right after dropping the clutch to shift. It's the water pump pulley. After deleting the air pump and belt, the water pump doesn't get enough belt surface area from just the alternator belt to spin correctly at higher RPMs.

Some install those loud gilmer drive units that sound like super chargers. A cheaper solution, that's much quieter, is a double pulley on the alternator. I grabbed this kit off eBay from Bansai Racing. Came with the pulley and two matching belts. Took about 30 minutes to install.
Attached Thumbnails Install of RB full exhaust, tips and advice-photo268.jpg  
Old 04-15-17, 10:34 PM
  #78  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I got that same dual pulley -- GSLForme recommended, and that's why I'm back here again, as I got questions. How do I got the OEM pulley off? It free spins, so little confused. Also, and this is gonna seem really dumb, how do I get the belts off? You got the fan there, and it's shaft, so.... I'm NOT a mechanic - I deal with database querries for work, so I deal with logic daily. However, I'm feeling like getting these belts off is like one of those mental tests.

Also, once I've got the ACV off, do I remove the charcoal canister setup on the passenger fender? That's not in my notes about that apparatus.

GSLForme - on my front wheels -- it's the brakes that was causing the drag -- the piston is not going 100% return. Should I just get new calipers?
Old 04-15-17, 10:37 PM
  #79  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I think of all the little small problems that I've encountered, and with the use of these forums, and the expert, free, advise you get, you're able to fix your problem, and roll on. Wasn't this easy 20 years ago - if you didn't know what the hell you were doing, and have the needed resources for parts, you was fucked
Old 04-15-17, 10:39 PM
  #80  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Chuyler -- you going to Deals Gap?

GSLForme -- I think you said you were??

I'm trying my best to be ready to get there
Old 04-15-17, 10:54 PM
  #81  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
swbtm -- I feel your pain on some of the issues you mentioned. I too have typed a shitload, only to be told "not logged in" and everything gone. And logging in isssues, and how cookies are not handled well. BUT, this site has made me be able to get and keep a RX7. I'm in the stix, and no one round here even knows what these rides are. Without this forum, I'd give up. The workings of this forum is somewhat like a rotary -- got get adjusted to it -- it's not like the others. This site has helped me on front & rear suspension, axles, power antenna, and much other -- all for free (I have sent out a free keychain for advise and time spent helping me)
Old 04-16-17, 03:13 AM
  #82  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
On alt,best bet is take off(disconnect battery ground cable first) & take it to shop that has impact gun to zip old pulley off & new one on. If you were doing it yourself you could hold pulley with gloved hand & use impact gun to zip off/on.
Old 04-16-17, 03:34 AM
  #83  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Belts: 1st take Ac compressor belt off by loosening 14mm pivot/adjustment bolts which lets Ac compressor slide in toward engine. You can slip belt off now.. Alternator already off... Take alternator belt off pulleys and pull upwards and feed. Belt up and over fan toward front(radiator side), now turn fan around while you feed belt through fan blades tll its off. Be mindful of radiator while doing this. Put both new alternator belts on same way in reverse. You can remove 4 nuts from water pump hub & remove fan (again be careful of radiator as fan will be stuck on hub,wiggle slightly to loosen) to make it easier for you but not necessary. Avoid overtightening alternator belts as too tight will cause premature water pump & eccentric shaft bearing wear. About 1/2" deflection with thumb pushing on belt in midpoint. Of alternator/water pump pulleys will be sufficient. Same for. Ac compressor belt on reinstall.
Old 04-16-17, 03:59 AM
  #84  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Currently away & posting from tablet... You have to be smarter than the belts,lol...sorry,had to throw that in there... Leave charcoal canister in place,no need to remove,it can still do its job. You will have to source rebuilt calipers there are. no new anymore I'm aware of. Quality suffers on some rebuilt products so you'll nerd to look them over good before turning in your or ones for cores. I rebuild all my own for this reason as I control the quality. Make sure you clean rust from pad holders and antirattle hardware and lubricate with silicone brake grease. Put slight film of grease kb back of brake lads,helps cut down on brake noise. While I'm spending your money,take close look at flexible brake hose going from hardline on fenderwell to caliper for wear,cracks etc...should replace just due to age. Again while spending your money... Could upgrade to stainless flexible lines for improved pedal feel but not necessary. You can see this posted. In pics a few posts back. Make sure you bleed brakes thoroughly.
Old 04-16-17, 10:51 AM
  #85  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)
 
chuyler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 1,079
Received 67 Likes on 57 Posts
Removing belts: the fan can be removed with 4 10mm bolts. That's how I did it. Yes, I know the fan wants to spin on you, but if you get the angle right with your spanner you can break them loose.

Removing alternator pulley: I knew I should of mentioned this earlier. It cannot be done without an impact wrench. I have a cheap compressor I bought at Home Depot. Used it for doing some finishing woodwork around the house, and it works fine with an impact wrench in the garage too.

Deals Gap: unfortunately I have my niece's first birthday party to attend that weekend. I'm hoping to make it next year. I've never been.
Old 04-16-17, 10:56 AM
  #86  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)
 
chuyler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 1,079
Received 67 Likes on 57 Posts
Oh, and I just bought the stainless brake line kit from Mazdatrix and spent a weekend afternoon installing them. I'm taking my car on the track and I don't want an old rubber hose bursting on me. I had one fail on an '87 cougar in '99...so '85 original lines are not considered safe even if they are low mile.
Old 04-16-17, 12:16 PM
  #87  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I'll take the Alt to a shop, as I don't have an air compressor or impact gun - just wrenches and sockets here.

The charcoal canister had a hose attached to the ACV, and I'm not seeing it hooked up to anything now - I'll go back out later and look again

On my brakes, the flexible hoses were redone when I put new pads and rotors on front (and rear). Is there any way to get the dirt behind the piston cleaned out?
Old 04-16-17, 10:24 PM
  #88  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Will look at my SE when home Tuesday for charcoal canister hose oruentation. No way to just clean rust/sludge from caliper without complete overhaul. Your best bet is to replace them. Between this website and this tablet trying to post j's frustrating.
Old 04-17-17, 10:17 AM
  #89  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)
 
chuyler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 1,079
Received 67 Likes on 57 Posts
My '85 GSL definitely didn't have anything on the ACV connected to the charcoal canister.
Old 04-17-17, 10:31 AM
  #90  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
http://www.ekyrecoverycenter.com/ACV_Connection.jpg

Here's a pic of the connection I'm referring to
Old 04-17-17, 08:51 PM
  #91  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Originally Posted by k4adams
http://www.ekyrecoverycenter.com/ACV_Connection.jpg

Here's a pic of the connection I'm referring to
That's air pump inlet air filter/muffler. You can remove that and keep with rest of removed air pump parts. Pic of charcoal canister in my SE engine bay right side,lower left in pic. Cruise control cable loops around it. Yours should be identical. In response to DGRR,i will be there unless something unforeseen occurs.
Attached Thumbnails Install of RB full exhaust, tips and advice-4576-mms-1487902621339-attachment1-0213161323.jpg   Install of RB full exhaust, tips and advice-4578-mms-1487902651327-attachment1-0213161322.jpg  
Old 04-17-17, 08:55 PM
  #92  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks, and sorry about misnaming the part. Do I remove just the hose or the whole apparatus?
Old 04-17-17, 08:57 PM
  #93  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I was hoping to get a paint job done before Deals Gap, but that seems highly unlikely now. I need to put a new clutch in - I've got a throwout bearing that's starting to chatter. I'm about 200 or so miles from Deals Gap - not sure how much damage, if any, it would be to drive it with this clutch if I run out of time. Thoughts?
Old 04-17-17, 09:03 PM
  #94  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Originally Posted by k4adams
Thanks, and sorry about misnaming the part. Do I remove just the hose or the whole apparatus?
No worries. I'd take the whole thing off,you don't have to. Will do no harm left there. I wanted to keep all removed system parts together and boxed up so i removed all air pump pieces and hardware.
Old 04-17-17, 09:05 PM
  #95  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
Originally Posted by k4adams
I was hoping to get a paint job done before Deals Gap, but that seems highly unlikely now. I need to put a new clutch in - I've got a throwout bearing that's starting to chatter. I'm about 200 or so miles from Deals Gap - not sure how much damage, if any, it would be to drive it with this clutch if I run out of time. Thoughts?
Noise occur with clutch pedal depressed? How long been making noise? Trying to get paint work done in short time frame usually results in something you're not happy with...

Last edited by GSLSEforme; 04-17-17 at 09:08 PM.
Old 04-17-17, 09:08 PM
  #96  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
yeah, noise only when peddle pushed to the floor -- just started doing it maybe 40 miles ago, or about month ago -- I've not moved the car much since started as been working on the suspension and exhaust. When I started it up last week, it wasn't doing it. I didn't drive it any that time (was sitting where I'm working on it), but I did push the clutch in several times and didn't hear the chatter
Old 04-17-17, 09:12 PM
  #97  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
How's the clutch feel,how many miles on it,loud chatter noise?
Old 04-17-17, 09:15 PM
  #98  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Got fine clutch peddle -- 100k on the whole ride, and I'd assume original clutch kit. Chatter's not too bad. I've got a new Excedy clutch here, but not sure if I can pull that job off by myself, and it's hard to coordinate with other's work and kid schedules. I'm in the stix, and there's not really any place close to take to, and I'm not sure I'd trust anyone else doing the work after the suspension deal.
Old 04-17-17, 09:22 PM
  #99  
Full Member
 
k4adams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: KY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I got front calipers coming from RockAuto -- got A1Cardones, both for under $100 including core charge (I'm not sending back my originals).
Old 04-17-17, 09:33 PM
  #100  
ancient wizard...

 
GSLSEforme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,335
Received 256 Likes on 209 Posts
If main concern is making it to DGRR,i'd chance it. Clutch job not real hard,need proper tools,jacks,jack stands. Recommend resurfacing flywheel and replacing oil seal while out/off. Understand how you feel about crappy service work performed,sucks on a modern car,lot worse on cars of our vintage. Really need to find a shop that understands you want it "right" and not just parts replacers like apparently you just experienced. Shops like this usually charge more money than the cheaper places. Shame so far away,i'd do the work for you.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:49 AM.