GSLSEforme

About best you can get,price reasonable.

k4adams

Yeah, I'd gladly pay for quality service. This forum lists a dude in KY that's rotary expert -- well, I got up with him, and sure enough, he's got the knowledge, but he's moved to OK City. From my research, I figure the tranny will weigh around 60lbs once I drain it. I've got a homemade rack my Dad built, and I'm gonna take it there once I finish up the stereo, exhaust and redoing front struts (and new calipers). I'm thinking I'll just need help getting whole unit off and back on. I have found a shop that resurfaces flywheels and that's on my plan. I've not got time to get any online parts - would Advance or AZ have the oil seal, or does it come in the complete Trans gasket kit (that's coming)

k4adams

well, I typed a response, and *poof* - gone. I've got a rack me & my Dad built from railroad ties - you can stand under the vehicle. I'm going to take it there and do the clutch -- if I time it right, I should be able to snag some help during the removal and replacement of the whole tranny. I'm figuring around 60 lbs drained. I've found a place that says can resurface the flywheel, and within 10 miles.

I'd gladly pay higher prices for work done by a rotary specialist. This forum lists one for KY, but was still about 100 miles away. I located him, but he's moved to OK City

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Time to just install the Garage Talk app on your smart phone.

k4adams

I will research that - thanks

k4adams

http://www.ekyrecoverycenter.com/exhaust.jpg

working on my exhaust Saturday

GSLSEforme

For stuff like that i prefer to use a Mazda part. Have had problems at times using aftermarket,for instance when replacing clutch/resurfacing flywheel i bought a National seal from Rockauto. When i got it all apart and opened seal box,no way was i using that compared to what came out-only want to do job once,got it from Mazda.

k4adams

ok, good advise -- closest mazda dealer I'm aware of would be in Kingsport TN -- I think I got to work in Frankfort this week and I'm sure there's one in Lexington. I bought a new B2000 at Paul Millers during cash for clunkers

k4adams

prob need to call them ahead, as I'm running out of time

GSLSEforme

Think you have a big enough chunk of work to do to get car to DGRR without taking on clutch job for first time at last minute. Going to be a hell of a thrash to get done what you need to drive it as of right now with brakes,suspension,etc. and get it all sorted. Like aforementioned paint work,rushing thru something like this without prior experience usually ends up with something less than satisfactory. Leave this job for later when you have the luxury of time and have all parts AND tools on hand. You will need a 54mm socket, and impact gun or some method of immobilizing flywheel to loosen the nut that holds it on. Other than this,hand tools you likely have can do the rest. My 2 cents...

k4adams

Well, your advise sorta rules it out for me as a shade tree job, at least for now. I don't have an impact wrench, and largest socket I got is 31mm (got a 30 & 31 from some past use that I can't remember). There's lots of "locals" should be at DGRR that could point me to a reliable mechanic in the area. When you're in the stix, "local" takes on a new definition. 150 miles to doctor, good restaurant/store, etc, is common.

k4adams

Everyone will just have to deal with my chatter - bout like on here -- yack yack yack

GSLSEforme

Regarding caliper replacement,remove and replace is pretty straightforward. Car takes DOT3 brake fluid,get a quart,won't need all of it but don't want to run out part way through. Do you know how to bleed brakes?

k4adams

Yeah, I can bleed brakes, with an assistant. I got the easy bleeders coming with the pistons - should be able to bleed by myself

GSLSEforme

You can buy a 2 1/8"=54mm socket at Tractor Supply for 12.00. Look at flywheel locking tool on Mazdatrix website to get an idea,look at posts on here about homemade versions. Breaker bar/pipe extension for torque to loosen gland nut.
Deadblow/copper hammer for tapping flywheel free from eccentric shaft. Pilot bearing removal tool,possible to rent one from some auto parts stores. Pilot bearing/seal installer tool you can borrow from me when ready to do clutch job. Should be all you need in way of special tools.

k4adams

I'm a little intimidated by this job; again, I'm not a mechanic. I think I'd prefer to take it to someone who knows what they're doing for the clutch.

GSLSEforme

Understood,so you know,wasn't trying to scare you off doing this job. You just tackled complete exhaust R & R. Certain you could complete the clutch job,having a stand up type of lift is a big + imo. Not likely car will encounter catastrophic clutch issues going to DGRR and back if you're not beating on it so you can take that off list for completion for DGRR and do it later when you've assembled necessary parts and tools.
Having someone help you muscle gearbox out/in also big+. You have resources here for advice and direction and knowledge you'll gain will help you learn how the car is put together and how it works= source of pride you did it yourself. These cars in comparison to others and more modern cars are comparatively easy to work on.

k4adams

I got the alternator, new pulley and belts on today and fired her up. Damn she sounds good. It's like a purr. I think engine area is actually more quiet now, as the original was sprouting leaks everywhere. I've still got her on the mountain, so no test drive, yet.

GSLSEforme

One more thing checked off punch list...

k4adams

RPMs are little lower at idle, but seems to run well, at least at idle

GSLSEforme

Really shouldn't have changed that much from what was previously. EGI system in S E allows a small adjusrment to idle rpm. Target idle speed is 800 rpm,how far from that is it?

k4adams

At first start, it was running at around 600, and after warming up, it was hovering around 700, but idling good

GSLSEforme

Does it not have a fast idle when cold? Should start and run 1500-1800 rpm when cold,faster when colder & drop down to base idle speed@800 rpm. You know you have to depress & release gas pedal to set fast idle cam before starting when cold?

GSLSEforme

There is an adjustment you can do to raise idle speed slightly. Will take pic of throttle body on mine to show what to adjust when get home and post,won't be til tomorrow afternoon though.

k4adams

That may be the problem - I didn't do the gas pedal thing. I figured that was just for cold weather starts, not any cold motor start. It was 70-some degrees yesterday, so figured not needed. I'll go out and start her here shortly and see what I got today. Thanks