Ignition Coil Upgrade
06-13-07, 05:12 PM
#1
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Ignition Coil Upgrade
Has anyone ever upgraded their stock coil? If so, what brand/model did you choose?
I was looking at Accell, but most of their coils are only good up till 6500 RPM, and their "Racing" coil which is good till 8500 RPM is only for GM. Im looking for a canister style, I can mount them in the stock location.
I was looking at Accell, but most of their coils are only good up till 6500 RPM, and their "Racing" coil which is good till 8500 RPM is only for GM. Im looking for a canister style, I can mount them in the stock location.
06-13-07, 05:39 PM
#3
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Did you notice a difference in the "smoothness" of the engine? Also, did you need to modify anything else, or just removed the old, and connect the new...plug and play.
06-14-07, 06:59 AM
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I did DLIDFIS and used two MSD Blaster coils on the leading with HEI igniters. Trailing is stock. It will rev to over 8K. I know that's not good for the engine, but it sure does sound great!
- David
- David
06-14-07, 12:40 PM
#6
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If you use MSD BLASTER 2 coils and plan on mounting them horizontally(like the stock ones), get the HIGH VIBRATION ones http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0474_-1_745372
As they are meant for mounting in any position, while the other ones are only meant to be mounted vertically.
As they are meant for mounting in any position, while the other ones are only meant to be mounted vertically.
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06-14-07, 04:18 PM
#8
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If you use MSD BLASTER 2 coils and plan on mounting them horizontally(like the stock ones), get the HIGH VIBRATION ones http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0474_-1_745372
As they are meant for mounting in any position, while the other ones are only meant to be mounted vertically.
As they are meant for mounting in any position, while the other ones are only meant to be mounted vertically.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
02-09-14, 12:16 PM
#10
Heres the proper link to the coils to get
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Try this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8222
02-09-14, 02:27 PM
#11
I swapped my leading over to the 2nd gen coil. I found that it helped the smoothness alot and gave it some extra pep. I thought about doing the MSD blaster coils but I read somewhere (probably on the packaging) that they don't operate properly unless they are oriented vertically and the stock coil housing didn't do that so I passed on the MSDs.
02-09-14, 05:13 PM
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I just installed the blaster coils the ones I have say u can mount them anyway u like even upside down. Sadly tho it didn't fix my my problem I'm starting too think its the carb or distrubutor cause my compression is perfect.
02-09-14, 06:54 PM
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Fearfulear69 exactly what problem are you experiencing? On another note, I guess I'm tempting fate but I have the regular Blaster 2 coils (red) and have mounted them horizontally in the stock location with no ill effects yet. Spoke to a couple other people and they've had their Blaster coils similarly mounted in the stock location for years and they haven't failed yet. Hoping the odds are on my side here!
02-09-14, 10:48 PM
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Fearfulear69 exactly what problem are you experiencing? On another note, I guess I'm tempting fate but I have the regular Blaster 2 coils (red) and have mounted them horizontally in the stock location with no ill effects yet. Spoke to a couple other people and they've had their Blaster coils similarly mounted in the stock location for years and they haven't failed yet. Hoping the odds are on my side here!
Switch to 8222 coils from MSD.
02-11-14, 12:37 AM
#17
02-11-14, 08:46 AM
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You referring to this 8222? http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...ster_Coil.aspx
02-11-14, 10:24 AM
#19
Just ordered a pair of the MSD 8222 Blaster "High Vibration" (potted) coils off Amazon - same price, and free shipping thanks to my Prime membership. Because they are epoxy potted they can mount horizontally in the original positions.
We'll see how they work. Currently running original stock coils from 1980. They test out OK on impedance but I suspect a little extra pep in the spark might help smooth out my burble.
Stock coil primary impedance is 0.9 Ohms +/- 0.09; Blaster mfg spec is 0.7 Ohms. This will raise current draw through the ignitors by a bit (about 23%); hopefully it doesn't shorten life on my J-105's.
We'll see how they work. Currently running original stock coils from 1980. They test out OK on impedance but I suspect a little extra pep in the spark might help smooth out my burble.
Stock coil primary impedance is 0.9 Ohms +/- 0.09; Blaster mfg spec is 0.7 Ohms. This will raise current draw through the ignitors by a bit (about 23%); hopefully it doesn't shorten life on my J-105's.
02-12-14, 09:54 AM
#21
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Just ordered a pair of the MSD 8222 Blaster "High Vibration" (potted) coils off Amazon - same price, and free shipping thanks to my Prime membership. Because they are epoxy potted they can mount horizontally in the original positions.
We'll see how they work. Currently running original stock coils from 1980. They test out OK on impedance but I suspect a little extra pep in the spark might help smooth out my burble.
Stock coil primary impedance is 0.9 Ohms +/- 0.09; Blaster mfg spec is 0.7 Ohms. This will raise current draw through the ignitors by a bit (about 23%); hopefully it doesn't shorten life on my J-105's.
We'll see how they work. Currently running original stock coils from 1980. They test out OK on impedance but I suspect a little extra pep in the spark might help smooth out my burble.
Stock coil primary impedance is 0.9 Ohms +/- 0.09; Blaster mfg spec is 0.7 Ohms. This will raise current draw through the ignitors by a bit (about 23%); hopefully it doesn't shorten life on my J-105's.
ignitors though because the little circuit board in the SA control box had some
scorch marks on it. The symptoms when your SA ignition fails will be it starts up cold
fine but when it gets warm it will start to miss and when it gets hot it will fail to run.
Once it cools it will work ok, lather rinse repeat until it happens so fast you can't
drive anywhere. At first you will think its something else and eventually it will strand you somewhere.
Ask me how I know.
02-12-14, 10:56 AM
#22
A leading 2G coil left PercentSevenC stranded. It killed the J-109 he was using. Yes we did include the ballast resistor but it still was too much for the stock ignitor.
His is an '83 that was set up for 2GCDFIS. I was there and "edited" his car to use trailing, which was still stock, going to the leading plugs and I think we rotated the dizzy for closer to leading timing. It got him home.
After that experience we had to make a decision. Either get a GM HEI which we know will handle more amps before going into current limit mode, or swap to true DLIDFIS. We chose DLIDFIS and the difference was actually noticeable. Shows how poor of a setup 2GCDFIS really is. I know it sounds like a broken record at this point, but it's true.
So now I'm curious about something LongDuck said. Just swapping coils but leaving them sparking through the cap and rotor didn't make any difference on his thoroughly stock and I'm guessing very nice GSL-SE. He seems to be the GSL-SE go-to guy around here. And as such most likely has a stock well kept engine bay. This means it has stock ignition.
I see a bunch of words and letters in his sig but nothing that jumps out at me suggesting a direct fire ignition upgrade. I'm thinking his car would benefit from a direct fire upgrade with "wasted spark" because even Mazda went to it with the FC. If it's good enough for Mazda, it's good enough for us 1st gen guys, if we decide to go for it. I just don't know if Mr. Dong would be willing to "fix" something that isn't broken. It's not really a fix, but rather a nice upgrade that does actually do something. It's noticeble, at least on all the carbed engines I've ever done.
His is an '83 that was set up for 2GCDFIS. I was there and "edited" his car to use trailing, which was still stock, going to the leading plugs and I think we rotated the dizzy for closer to leading timing. It got him home.
After that experience we had to make a decision. Either get a GM HEI which we know will handle more amps before going into current limit mode, or swap to true DLIDFIS. We chose DLIDFIS and the difference was actually noticeable. Shows how poor of a setup 2GCDFIS really is. I know it sounds like a broken record at this point, but it's true.
So now I'm curious about something LongDuck said. Just swapping coils but leaving them sparking through the cap and rotor didn't make any difference on his thoroughly stock and I'm guessing very nice GSL-SE. He seems to be the GSL-SE go-to guy around here. And as such most likely has a stock well kept engine bay. This means it has stock ignition.
I see a bunch of words and letters in his sig but nothing that jumps out at me suggesting a direct fire ignition upgrade. I'm thinking his car would benefit from a direct fire upgrade with "wasted spark" because even Mazda went to it with the FC. If it's good enough for Mazda, it's good enough for us 1st gen guys, if we decide to go for it. I just don't know if Mr. Dong would be willing to "fix" something that isn't broken. It's not really a fix, but rather a nice upgrade that does actually do something. It's noticeble, at least on all the carbed engines I've ever done.
02-12-14, 11:44 AM
#23
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
A leading 2G coil left PercentSevenC stranded. It killed the J-109 he was using. Yes we did include the ballast resistor but it still was too much for the stock ignitor.
His is an '83 that was set up for 2GCDFIS. I was there and "edited" his car to use trailing, which was still stock, going to the leading plugs and I think we rotated the dizzy for closer to leading timing. It got him home.
After that experience we had to make a decision. Either get a GM HEI which we know will handle more amps before going into current limit mode, or swap to true DLIDFIS. We chose DLIDFIS and the difference was actually noticeable. Shows how poor of a setup 2GCDFIS really is. I know it sounds like a broken record at this point, but it's true.
So now I'm curious about something LongDuck said. Just swapping coils but leaving them sparking through the cap and rotor didn't make any difference on his thoroughly stock and I'm guessing very nice GSL-SE. He seems to be the GSL-SE go-to guy around here. And as such most likely has a stock well kept engine bay. This means it has stock ignition.
I see a bunch of words and letters in his sig but nothing that jumps out at me suggesting a direct fire ignition upgrade. I'm thinking his car would benefit from a direct fire upgrade with "wasted spark" because even Mazda went to it with the FC. If it's good enough for Mazda, it's good enough for us 1st gen guys, if we decide to go for it. I just don't know if Mr. Dong would be willing to "fix" something that isn't broken. It's not really a fix, but rather a nice upgrade that does actually do something. It's noticeble, at least on all the carbed engines I've ever done.
His is an '83 that was set up for 2GCDFIS. I was there and "edited" his car to use trailing, which was still stock, going to the leading plugs and I think we rotated the dizzy for closer to leading timing. It got him home.
After that experience we had to make a decision. Either get a GM HEI which we know will handle more amps before going into current limit mode, or swap to true DLIDFIS. We chose DLIDFIS and the difference was actually noticeable. Shows how poor of a setup 2GCDFIS really is. I know it sounds like a broken record at this point, but it's true.
So now I'm curious about something LongDuck said. Just swapping coils but leaving them sparking through the cap and rotor didn't make any difference on his thoroughly stock and I'm guessing very nice GSL-SE. He seems to be the GSL-SE go-to guy around here. And as such most likely has a stock well kept engine bay. This means it has stock ignition.
I see a bunch of words and letters in his sig but nothing that jumps out at me suggesting a direct fire ignition upgrade. I'm thinking his car would benefit from a direct fire upgrade with "wasted spark" because even Mazda went to it with the FC. If it's good enough for Mazda, it's good enough for us 1st gen guys, if we decide to go for it. I just don't know if Mr. Dong would be willing to "fix" something that isn't broken. It's not really a fix, but rather a nice upgrade that does actually do something. It's noticeble, at least on all the carbed engines I've ever done.
