I've got my idle screw all the way out and it idles around 300-400 rpms, if i have it anything but all the way out it dies coming back down to idle. If i'm sitting at a stop light the idle will go from 300 to a steady 600-700 after sitting for about 10-15 seconds, but with the screw all the way out it should be higher than that.

 

Are you ceratain you're not turning the mixture screw?
You pretty much can't even see the idle speed screw because it's hidden under the cluster-**** of linkage.

If you really do have the right screw, then it's time to turn in the mixture screw a bit.

 

I keep forgetting to mention i have an SE.

 

Sorry guy, I just don't know a damn thing about them.

 

When I saw the name of the post, I thought that you missed a zero..

You see, even with the idle speed screw (which is hidden under the ******* linkage) turned all the way out, *mine* idles at 4 THOUSAND rpm.... and if I turn it in too much, the idle goes up to about 4.5krpm.

I don't have a clue now what to do.... I have tried screwing around with the other one, but decided to leave the more easily accessible idle mix screw at a nice 3 turns out just like my friend Eric's.

Any ideas? I've pretty much ruled out the possibility of ANY vacuum leak, I think. I've replaced all the vacuum hose with a nice tight one-size-too-small hose that was the only stuff available.. I plugged up that intake manifold hole that is the cause of so many problems (leads to the AAB attached to the carb, which is now removed as well).... and I still don't know.

The problem is at least different than before, but I think I prefered what it was doing before..

Sterling.. Carl.. anybody.. HELP!

Jon

 

vipernicus42, that must be a vacuum leak!
Try spraying a small amount of ether around the carb in a controlled manneras it's idling. The ether will get sucked into the leak, and the idle will climb for a moment. You can then pinpoint right where it it is. But I'll put money on the idea that it's a leak.

 

I am having the same problem...
The reason it comes back up to proper idle is that the BAC is compensating for it and smoothing it out.

I'm going to be testing some of my solenoids as I'm pretty sure one of them is causing the problem with the idle and deceleration.

When I find out I'll let you know so you can check there first. In the meantime I've leaned the mixture abit and reset the TPS. to bring the idle up...

If you don't wanna do that then use the "cheater method" and adjust you cruise control wire so that the idle doesn't go below 700 (the cruise will hold the throttle open a little to compensate.)

 

If that car has a malfunctioning secondary air system (air pump, ACV, solenoids, mis-routed vacuum lines, etc.), that would cause a low idle on a GSL-SE. These engines rely on port air during idle -- without it, the mixture is too rich to be compensated for by the mixture screw or idle speed screw.

Are all of those items present? (Some folks remove the air pump in a quest for more power.)

Is this low idle a new problem?

Any recent work done on the car?

 

No air pump or acv, no cruise either, the owner before me disconnected the vacuum line for the cruise and left the unit still in there... for some reason the car ran better with the open vacuum line. i disconnected the battery and reset the ecu and it helped a little. i JB welded my blocker plate on because i broke off all but one of the bolts inside the IM... it ran the same with NO blocker plate as it does with the blocker plate on.

 

I had someone suggest that perhaps my problem is the throttle is too tight, or that the linkage is stuck open (at about 4krpm) on something.... I'm gonna check that tomorrow.

I don't think it's a vacuum leak because it's not doing the same thing it was before when it DID have a vacuum leak. Before, it would start only with the choke, and ran fine if I held the choke open, but ran at 3500rpm. Once started, I could push the choke in and hold it at 3500 with the gas pedal, but if I let it drop any lower, it would sputter and die.

Now it starts right up, and has absolutely no problems. No need for choke either. However, it runs at 4000rpm and I can't bring it down for the life of me. Even to make it sputter and stall like it was doing before.. I just CAN'T. I replaced all the vacuum hoses from the carb spacer to the nest, and the one on the back that used to have a T in it going to the AAB with a straight hose. I removed the AAB, and capped the hole into the intake manifold that had a hose running to the AAB. I used a bit of high-heat silicon sealant on both sides of the spacer to make sure the seal was nice and tight (After cleaning the spacer with soap and water and drying it thoroughly). I'm SURE it's not a vacuum leak.

RxCetera from the Canadian forum suggested perhaps the "idle circuit". Not sure about that, dont' know much about carbs really. The carb ran fine on Andy's car last year, and we both highly hold the belief that it should run fine now.

So, idle circuit, stuck linkage, or something else? I'll let you know about the linkage one tomorrow.

To "O 16581 72452 5", sorry to steal your thread, but it was a related carb problem, and I didn't want to make another unnecessary thread to hog forum space. I wish I could help ya on your problem, but I don't have the first clue about idle problems and fuel injection. Hopefully either someone will solve it, or we're having similar problems that can be solved in similar fashions.

Jon

 

Just adjust your trottle cable...

It's just like tightening the brakes on a bike. It won't take much to bring your idle up. My cable is set all the way over on the treaded piece and it's idling at 1,000rpm. No vibrations or irractic idle.... just running perfect.



Once again guys to the "Trottle body mod!!" it'll be even easier and your intake temps drop enorrmassely.
Ask the second gen forum guys for the intructions.