Well lets start it off by saying i took the car out one day (at night) and it wanted to stall each time it were coming to a stop light. I went out the next time and just went in the car a warmed her up, rev the engine up and when it came back down it would go to 500 or 250rpm and then come back up to 850-900rpm. It seemed like it was struggling to get back up there. So I turned off all the lights and stuff and she idled fine and reved it and it went to idle fine. so i went out there today to warm it up and when i was clean to snow off it was wanting to die, then it just stopped. I go to crank it and it starts, but then once it goes to idle its stalls again. I might think its the altenator but want do you guys think?

The car is a 85 gsl

 

mine does the same thing i have a 85 gsl-se so i have a fuel injected system but still
same problem

 

Alt is a good possiblility. What does your gauge read and does it drop when yopu turn on accs.

 

idn about him but my altinator charges my battery to 12.5 to 14 volts....i ahve asked this question a few times and no one has been able to help me

 

mine did this til it stopped running completely, for me it was the ignitors, once running you could get on the gas and it would run, but as soon as you let off, it would drop down and bounce several times then die, good luck

 

mine has been doing this. you can have it at idle and rev it and when it drops rpm it stumbles and dies. not sure the set up you have but on my holley i ended up, uping the fuel psi and checking the floats and dropping a jet size. then also put in different leading plugs. it worked LIKE A CHARM today KNOCK ON WOOD.

what happens is you rev it and if the float is set wrong and not enough psi the float level can drop and starve the carb. thats why when you tap the gas it tries to stay a live.

good luck

 

mine does the same thing it will die sometimes when i have the lights on, i just usulaly heel toe it while coming to a stop. so it sounds like changing plugs might help, ill check mine when i change the oil and see if there going bad, then change them and see if it makes a difference

 

Same thing here. But, every third or fourth time it would run great.

 

I would recommend to everyone posting that has a similar problem to go ahead and clean all of your electrical connections on your cables and run a second ground on the vehicle. Make sure that your battery cables and posts on your battery are clean at all times. With suspected ignitior problems, Take the ignitors off, clean the connections on the ignitors and at the wiring harness with contact cleaner. When reinstalling the ignitors coat the back of them with dielectric grease to help prevent them from heat soaking.

 

well my dad just suggested this. he told me to change the idle screw and the air/fuel ratio cause of the -5C temperature over here. he says it might be too lean for this weather. idk i am going to ry it today and i will see if any changes happened

 

i have a efi car so i dont have a carb and i did what doc recomended and it didnt help. I also changed my plugs (way to much money) and still notting. I tried the idle screw change along time ago...didnt help. I dont know what else to try

 

it could have to do with an exaughst leak?.. not enough back pressure?

 

thread revival from hell lol

 

Guess in the wind here....???

Coils not getting 12V at idle = weak spark = crappy idle = stalling.

Mine sometimes feels like it's running on one rotor until you give it a little rpm'age.

The reason I'm guessing low voltage to coils is b/c when I was checking the timing... The timing lights pulse/flash was really weak when the idle was shitty, which happens randomly.

(^ which could also be related to doc's theory above..? )

I'm going to probe around with a multimeter when I get a chance.

I remember reading somewhere in some post once upon a time about getting a realy in there to make sure coils always see 12V.