When some one beats their baby.

Well, I suppose this is a good truth: The problems never arise when the OWNER is driving the car. I foolishly handed the keys off to my brother today, and low and behold the REX comes home in a "Not running" status.

I recently switched out the master and slave cylinders for the hydrolic clutch. Both peices, including the hydrolic hosing are completely brand new. We bled the hydrolic line a couple days ago, and the clutch sprang completely back to life.

Well, I foolishly handed the keys over to my brother today, low and behold.. He had to have it towed home becuase the clutch stopped. The pedal became a sponge again.

I bled the clutch AGAIN tonight, and tonnes of air came bubbling out. However, while reading the chilton repair manual I noticed a line that said "Remove the covering for the bleeding nipple and place a line to the nipple after loosening it"

Is there suppose to be a cap or something air tight over that nipple? Is that why there may be air getting back into my lines? or is there some other possible issue? We bled it twice tonight, and still it just wont shift.

Im very.. discouraged. Blarg, any ideas?

 

replace both slave and master the seal might have went on the master..and its letting air in..OR.. your not tightining the bleeder screw enough, one of the two but if i were you i would replace both..and get a steel braided clutch line as well, i think the whole 9 would cost you just about 180 or something around there..dont give up its just a clutch problem. happens all the time..


:AA:

 

That is the exact reason I go with however wants to drive my car, and the one time my sister took off with it, I almost smacked her.

 

Both the slave and master cylinder are brand new. So, Im unsure if thats what could be doing it...Though after working retail I certianly know that parts can be defective.

 

yep, check the steel line and the rubber line for cracks and fluid..maybe that ?


:AA:

 

When I depress the clutch, I can still see the slave depress into the transmission. So thats still working. This has me really kinda grumpy.

 

fudge, did you check the steel line and the rubber line? nothing huh? then the parts are defected..good luck


:AA:

 

The rubber cap on the slave is to keep debris, water, etc. out of the bleeder nipple, it does nothing as a seal. When bleeding, hookup a vacuum hose that fits tight over the nipple, then drop the other end into a container with fresh brake fluid. This helps prevent air from being sucked back into the system.

 

So, As any self respecting handy man would do.. I kind of found a hose around the house that would work the last time we did it. I used uh, Fish tank hose. The stuff that you connect the little compressors to that put air into the tank. Worked the first time, A little bit?

Is Vacuum house a specific peice I can pick up anywhere? We do infact have the other end of the house in break fluid, just as the manual describes.

 

bump

 

At least he didn't bring it home wrecked like my brother did.

I dont have any insight on the mechanical side though.

 

If the fish tank hose fits well over the bleeder screw, it's fine to use.

 

I always use aquarium tubing because then you can see the bubbles.

 

+ 1 i use clear hoses for clutch and brake all the time .

 

wooh, I thought this was going to be another 7 crashed. glad it wasn't. The fish tank hose should work fine or you can go to autozone or something and get some clear tube for windsheild wiper fluid to go through which will probably fit....like it did for me.

 

Allrighty.

So I bled it again, twice today. No go, nothing. The pedal STILL feels like a sponge in comparison to what it did. however, every time we bleed it we get some air out.

So, this leads me to beleive theres a leak? Also.. Random question, but the car doesnt have to be running to do this does it? The pedal almost feels different when running, though Im thinking thats just because the engines shakin' round.

Any input on this?

 

no, when its not running works fine. Maybe a bad clutch line hose??

 

Possible. Every peice of that is just JUST brand new. What would be the best way to check to see if its leaking anywhere? I know carb cleaner is standard fair for a vacuum line, however there enough vacuum for their to be a bubble or indication its leaking in this kind of situation?

 

I dont think so, Check for any leaks around there. Brand new parats dont always mean they are going to work no matter what.

 

Okay, question. Would a bad gasket between the firewall and the master cylinder let air in? Just a random question..

 

No.

 

Short and sweet answer, Wacky. Thanks.

I'll post tomorrow and let you all know whats going on. Im going to completely check every hose and reinstall everything, make sure there isnt a look somewhere I cant see..

 

If you are still getting air in the system, either the rubber or metal hose has a leak or the bleeder nipple is leaking. However, if that's the case, then there should be a fluid leak. If there is no fluid leak present, then you are not bleeding correctly. The bleeder is cracked open and closed while the pedal is still depressed. If that is not successful, pull the carpet from the top, under the clutch pedal and look for a leak.

 

You never said how you bleed the system. Are you doing, the old press the pedal/tighten nipple or are you using a vacuum bleeder? Ive had good results with the manual bleeding but I got a cheap vacuum bleeder and it works sooo much better. A worthy investment.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474