so i was driving fine the whole day, parked my car and left it running for 30 sec while i got the kid at day care. got back in the car and it did not want to go in any gear!!! i eventually made it back home only by man handling the clutch. Here is what i know

While the car is turned off i can go in any gear no problem.

When i opened the hood and checked the res. there was fluid at the base of the res. but it was still full.

followed the line back to the trans and no leaking.

while the car is on i cannot put it in any gear without manhandling it.

Car does not need a clutch but never experianced anything like this before.

If I put it in gear then try and turn it on it will not turn on and would actually move while cranking.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!

 

Had this problem on a Honda of mine. Turned out needed a new clutch

 

Perhaps try bleeding it before you do anything else?

 

Probably your clutch master or slave cylinder (whichever is leaking) is ready to give out, and you've got some air in the line that is preventing complete disengagement. Mine went a few weeks after I bought the car, same as yours. Was fine when parked, couldn't disengage when I tried to leave later.

Bleed it, but if that helps, it just means you're almost ready to lose either the master or the slave. People here usually recommend changing them together, as they tend to go at the same time.

 

Try bleeding it, but I'd bet that either your slave or master is going bad. If your handy at all (this is easy) you can buy the rebuilt kits at Autozone and rebuild both the master and slave cylinders for about $20. Getting the master cylinder out of the car is a bitch though. Straight forward, but a bitch.

 

Ha! We posted that at the same time lol

 

Jinx!

 

you guys are both right, a friend came by(LAWLESS) from the board and quickly identified the problem..... 25 bucks at auto zone and it will be here today at 9.
but when i told the guy i said clutch master slave cylinder and he knew what i was talking about, its the one that goes onto the body.

ill take a pic of it today before i start working on it. for you guys.

 

The clutch "master cylinder" is on the fire wall. When you press the clutch pedal, your moving the piston inside this cylinder. (the rebuild kit is to replace the seals on this piston)

The piston inturn displaces the hydraulic fliud in the line, which pushes against another piston inside the "slave cylinder" (located on the bell housing). The slave pushes against the clutch fork to provide actuation. So the master and slave cylinders are two seperate components to the hydrualic system that actuate the clutch. Your problem could be in one or the other or both cylinders.

General practice is: if one goes bad, the other is probablly about to, so why not replace both while your in there. The other option is to just replace the whole component. Slaves are pretty inexpensive, $30 or so plus its a whole bunch easier to replace the slave than rebuild it. Master cylinders cost more so they generally get rebuilt, but sometimes the extra cost of plug and play is worth not hasseling with the time and headace's of putting in new seals and still having it leak.

This is all good experience for you and builds character in the long run. You need to get dirt under your fingernails if you play with these toys.

 

Or else you have to be independently wealthy.

 

I didn't want to create another thread about having clutch hydro issues when there is already one at the top of the list. No mean to hijack the thread but thought it might also help.

So I have been driving my car for awhile with no issues. On my way to school I noticed the pedal getting spongy but was still able to get it into gear without grinding. On my way back home I noticed I had to pump the clutch a bit to get it in gears but was still drivable to try and get it back home. So I stop at a stop sign and I couldnt get it into first gear even when pumping. I ended up getting it home, not by driving, to check it out. The clutch had some pressure but would lose it gradually, as I could see the piston pushing the throwout but would slowly go back to the original position. The master was full, no visible leaks around the hose connections and bleeder. A friend of mine told me there looks to be a small leak at the slave boot, even though I couldnt feel it when touching it. I ended up replacing the slave with my friend's old one, which he stated didnt leak and was working, so I can drive for the time being. Installed it and bled it, no pressure at all.. even worse than my original situation. I searched around on the forum and they said a clear sign of a slave going out is having fluid in the boot, even if it doesnt look like its leaking. I opened up the boot and there is no fluid, unless it evaporated.. which I doubt. I need to get rolling asap so I need your advice...

I was thinking maybe the original system had pressure but had a big bubble in the middle of the system which made it still kind of work. Then when I was at the stop sign it moved to the slave causing the spongy feeling. Should I reinstall the slave and rebleed it? Get a new slave?, but the one I originally took off was new to begin with. I should mention the master crapped out on me before and had it rebuilt. There is also no sign of leaks on the inside by the firewall. I need help. Thanks rotary family!

 

Okay here is a update everyone- although there was some leakage off the metal line to the master clutch cyl. the problem was actually the slave cylinder.... I replaced both and now it works perfect. thanks guys.

DRUKEN- I had that exact same problem before i swtiched mine out. i bought both at auto zone for 50$ dont rebuild anything

 

The "bubble in the line" theory is interesting and I suppose could offer an explaination. Air pockets do move in the system, normally settleing at a high point in a line or connection and could get trapped. It sounds to me like yours is a bleeding problem. It's not an exact science. Even if you do eveything the same, you can get varing results. I have a motorcycle bleeder that attaches at the caliper (slave cly in this application) and draws the fluid from the reservoir at the master, through the line. You just make sure the reservoir does not run dry (creating a bubble). Works like a snap without any pedal pumping or nipple opening & closing.

If your problem is a leak, it will be at either a connection, a hole in a line or seepage past the piston seals and there will be evidence in the form of fluid at the leak and the reservoir being low. If you've not found any leaks inside or under the hood. it must be air in the system and changing slaves or masters will not change that unless it's thoroughly and correctly bled.

 

Update- that leak was caused by a crack in the hydrolic line.

 

The hard line, or the hose?

 

hairline crack at the tip of the hard(aluminum) line. went to auozone and they made me a new one. 5$