I need to drop a 12a into an SE.
#1
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Location: Uniontown, Pa. USA
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I need to drop a 12a into an SE.
First off please don't call me an idiot.
I run upto the gas station car's running great. I get gas add some MMO. Check the oil , Its a pinch low so I add about an 1/8th of a quart. take off drive about a mile and come to a light. Some guy in a civic with an exhaust is in front of me revving his engine. He turns left so I do too. I blow his doors off and then hit the bypass. Couple miles later I hit an exit doing about 40 low rpms 5th gear all of the sudden my car makes this little noise can't even remember the noise really but I think it did make a small noise and then no power. So I milk it to the shop and pull my plugs to start checking if I have compression. Rear rotor is good. front rotor has compression on only one pulse. So I'm thinking one of my apex seals might have gotten stuck so I pull it up on some ramps and pull the headers. all the apex seals are good but one. One has a chunck about 1/2 inch wide missing. but the rotor faces look good and what I can see of the rotor housing looks good. I'm going to rebuild it but I just can't bring myself to start driving my metro again. I have a good 12a engine sitting in the garage with 90k on it. So I figure I'll just drop it in there till I get the 13b done. Could you guys fill me in on the work that I'm going to have to do for this conversion? Thanks guys.
I run upto the gas station car's running great. I get gas add some MMO. Check the oil , Its a pinch low so I add about an 1/8th of a quart. take off drive about a mile and come to a light. Some guy in a civic with an exhaust is in front of me revving his engine. He turns left so I do too. I blow his doors off and then hit the bypass. Couple miles later I hit an exit doing about 40 low rpms 5th gear all of the sudden my car makes this little noise can't even remember the noise really but I think it did make a small noise and then no power. So I milk it to the shop and pull my plugs to start checking if I have compression. Rear rotor is good. front rotor has compression on only one pulse. So I'm thinking one of my apex seals might have gotten stuck so I pull it up on some ramps and pull the headers. all the apex seals are good but one. One has a chunck about 1/2 inch wide missing. but the rotor faces look good and what I can see of the rotor housing looks good. I'm going to rebuild it but I just can't bring myself to start driving my metro again. I have a good 12a engine sitting in the garage with 90k on it. So I figure I'll just drop it in there till I get the 13b done. Could you guys fill me in on the work that I'm going to have to do for this conversion? Thanks guys.
#2
8krpm is not enough
hm, I can't imagine it'd be too hard, you might just be able to bolt it in, using your 13B flywheel, clutch, counterweight, ect...
your fuel pump's gonna need to be swapped too, since 50PSI into a carb's gonna blow some **** up.
good luck, hope the rebuild goes ok, and she's back to beautiful soon.
--matt
your fuel pump's gonna need to be swapped too, since 50PSI into a carb's gonna blow some **** up.
good luck, hope the rebuild goes ok, and she's back to beautiful soon.
--matt
#3
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Don't use the 13B flywheel on a 12A. Does the 12A have a good clutch on it? If it is 225mm, they are interchangable.
Your 13B front mounting plate (motormount) may not line up properly on the studs. You're better off using one from a 12A car. It's the stamped steel thing that mounts to the front cover (but you already knew that).
Disconnect your ECU under the passenger floorboard, but leave it in place.
The radiator hoses will probably fit, but might be short by 20mm. The fan should work ok. The blades will be further back from the rad, but that's ok.
The 13B dizzy can be dropped into the 12A if it needs one. The advance curve is ok to use, but not 100% perfect for a 12A. Not a big deal. You might want to set your Trailing to 8* behind the Leading. It'll boost your power a tad.
Yes, get a different fuel pump. I'm not sure how to run it with the stock fuel line though. But the other end should be easy to hook a fuel line to it for the 12A Nikki carb. You might need to use the return line, but I've seen it done without one.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.
Your 13B front mounting plate (motormount) may not line up properly on the studs. You're better off using one from a 12A car. It's the stamped steel thing that mounts to the front cover (but you already knew that).
Disconnect your ECU under the passenger floorboard, but leave it in place.
The radiator hoses will probably fit, but might be short by 20mm. The fan should work ok. The blades will be further back from the rad, but that's ok.
The 13B dizzy can be dropped into the 12A if it needs one. The advance curve is ok to use, but not 100% perfect for a 12A. Not a big deal. You might want to set your Trailing to 8* behind the Leading. It'll boost your power a tad.
Yes, get a different fuel pump. I'm not sure how to run it with the stock fuel line though. But the other end should be easy to hook a fuel line to it for the 12A Nikki carb. You might need to use the return line, but I've seen it done without one.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.
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