As the kit is shipping, I thought I'd get everyone with it to give their opinion as they install it. I got mine three weeks ago, but I probably won't be installing it for months.

 

I hope you don't mind but I changed the poll just slightly.

 

I plan on eventually picking on up. Maybe this spring depending on how things are with the car and if my plans with it change at all.

 

What'd it say before?

 

I would like to get one, but am waiting to hear more imput from people that actually have.

 

I dunno..... what did you say before?

 

Please add your comments if you've got the kit.

I personally was somewhat disapointed when I got mine. There are a number of things that I'm concerned about.

1) You have to cut and drill your stock steering column so forget about going back. What happened to the simple hand tools promise?
2) You lose the collapsing function of the steering column, a safety feature.
3) It's held together with a bunch of welds, which if done correctly can last a long time. However, weld failure due to fatigue is well known. Fatigue is repeated small forces making the material act brittle as opposed to a few large forces. Welds are very suseptible to it.
4) I haven't installed it yet, but it sure looks like the pivot point in the steering arm is different between the left and right sides.
5) I'm a little concerned about the parts rusting, especially the universal joint and arm.
6) Theres a hidden extra charge if it's shipped to the US. UPS charges a $21 "customs handling fee" or basically, "We just charged you extra, bend over" fee.

So I guess I'm waiting to hear more positive things about it to make me feel better before I install mine.

 

Personally, I'm not too enthused about the whole idea. I'm not really worried about quality per se, but weighing the benefits and disadvantages, it just doesn't seem worth it.

Pros:
-On center precision
-Will not deteriorate into 'wonder steer'
-Fairly simple installation

Cons:
-Will bump me into MOD for autocrossing
-Ratio lock to lock is virtually identical
-Not reversable

Getting the steering working right in our cars is a bit of a challenge, I'll admit, but there are tutorials out there on how to readjust the box properly. With the steering linkage in good repair and a tight box, I have never had trouble with the steering in my car, certainly not enough to warrant the swap. I would be more convinced if the rack had a good tight ratio, but as it stands, it's basically the same ratio that we have now, plus (at least how I read the rules) I can't muck with the steering components in my car without being bumped to MOD class.

I'm sure it's a well engineered product, but the cons outweigh the benefits. At least in my case.

 

Lock to lock is crap as far as indicators are concerned. Suppose we have two racks that both have 3 turns lock-to-lock. One, when turned from lock to lock, moves the tie rods 2 inches, the other moves the tie rods 8 inches. Which one is going to make the wheels turn more, and have 'fast' steering? . . . Obviously the one that moves the tie rods more.

What you really need to look at is the mechanical gear ratio. That tells you how much wheel you have to turn to get the tie rods to move. Our cars have a ~17:1 for non-PS, and ~14.5:1 w/PS. IIRC the VW rack has around 12:1 ratio, so even though lock-to-lock is the same as the stock non-PS one, its 40% faster.

I'm a bit conserned as well though, just do to the fact that steering can be extremely dangerous to modify. If the rack mounts break, you're plowing off the road, and are likely to roll the car, if you don't hit walls or oncoming traffic .

 

I don't get that. The wheels will move the same amount be it with the old box or the new rack, so the 'mechanical advantage' shouldn't mean anything. If the wheels move the same amount and the lock to lock turn ratio is the same, shouldn't the steering feel identical?

It seems to me that if the tie rods are moving more distance per steering wheel movement, the turn to turn ratio should be a lower number as well. You can't have a high lock to lock ratio and still have quick steering, at least how I see it anyhow.

 

I don't plan on getting one. I have no complaints about the current steering. There's the usual amount of play, but the car's predictable and responsive, no "wonder steering", and I toss it around a lot. I like cruising down the highway with zero kickback in the wheel, something I can't say about my Miata.

 

I don't think they'll care if you have a rack and pinion in CSP or Prepared unless you're winning. Then they do have the right to protest you. I say install it and run in your normal class unless someone complains.

It's not like a steering rack will give you faster lap times. It's not like you're streetporting your motor or anything@

 

Why would I do a mod that is not reversable on the off chance that I wouldn't get caught? That's a shitty way of doing things. Our local club prides itself on the fact that we're all friends. Everyone is up front about their mods and there isn't any need to protest anyone. I'm not about to go ruin that for something that in your own words does me no good. I'm not trying to flame you here or start an argument, but I really don't think that I need to start being underhanded when it comes to Solo II regulations.

If I'm going to win, I'd like to do so legitimately.

 

I did not say the rack did no good. I said it won't give you faster lap times. The rack has pros that you listed.

I was saying it won't have a significant effect on your times and I was not saying to be underhanded.

Another way to look at it is that some SCCA rule are lame. Others are confusing and some are rediculous. This is a steering modification that Mazda should have done in the factory. And in fact Rx7's after 1st gen have racks.

I have adjusted my factory box and the more you adjust it, the more and FASTer it wears out requiring yet more adjustment to the point you have 2" of slop and need another box. The factory box can be rebuilt to the tune of $200 but it'll never steer as accurately as a good rack.

I installed a Grant 13" steering wheel and that was a simple way to quicken the steering ratio from hand to tire. I'm suprised you haven't thought of that.

If you want a tighter turning radius, put some 205/45/15 tires on there. They're nice and wide.

It looks like you made your decision not to buy this rack.

 

Let me try to explain it another way. Suppose that I have two cars with the same steering gear ratio, but two different lock-to-lock measures, 1 turn and 3 turns. The gearing determines how much the wheels will turn when you turn the steering wheel, so the steering will 'feel' the same. The difference between the two cars is that one can turn the wheels three times as much (assuming that it doesn't start rubbing from turning too far).

Lock-to-lock is a way to describe the length of the linear movement that the steering can make by telling how much you have to turn the wheel to 'max' it out. The problem with measuring the length of the steerings movement this way, is that it doesn't tell you how much the wheels can turn, so says nothing directly about the feel, or speed of the steering. Indirectly though, it can say somthing about the gear ratio.

 

It appears that I heard (or remebered wrong), the VW rack has a gear ratio closer to the PS version. I can't find anything that says exactly because it seems to vary with the year and model the rack came from. So the feel improvement is going to be minimal...

 

the poll shows in favor for the cp rack and pinion.. point taken on every cons you'll have noted about cp's rack, but it all comes down to every individuals needs... i sure hope racing beat or other companies are thinking of making a rack for the 1st gen with the option of power steering... from the pictures that i've seen... the rack looks as if it can take quite a beating...

 

I got the kit specifically to replace my stock box as my car was in a side collision.

In fact, the only reason I haven't been driving it these past two years is that I don't trust the gearbox... (I didn't have much play before the wreck, now I can move the steering wheel a quarter turn in either direction without actual wheel movement.)

Once I get it all done and all I'll be straight forward about any mods done to the car and put it in whatever class they want me to be in...

I'm going to be autocrossing for fun. Who gives a **** whether I win or not... Or is there some kinda prize at the end? One meeeelion dollars? 10 virgins, 35 Goats, and 20 chickens? A fatty boom batty blunt? All the booze and chicken wings I could consume? A high salary job? No... Okay then... I'll just drive for the fun of it.

I'm still the only vote for Paid for it, havent seen it...

 

*After winning the SCCA national solo championships...*
YOU HAVE JUST ONE MILLION DOLLARS, 10 VIRGINS, AND A 100FT YACHT!!! GREAT DRIVING!!
Oh, wait... Is that a CP Racing rack conversion kit????? DISQUALIFIED! Looks like we'll have to give first place to one of those 2nd gen guys...

 

It's okay, I don't wanna pay the taxes on the mil, nor do I want "friends" asking for "loans"... I've got all the girls I can deal with. (One. Her name is Maria. )... And the Yacht would need insurance, maintenance, and taxes...

I'll take the blunt, wings, and booze though... All of which are easily available. And I'll still get to drive for fun.

 

Just an observation here. Can't you use a GTI rack? I believe it has a better ration than a stock rack.

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure they have said you can get GTI rack. However, they don't offer it as a part of their kit. If you want the GTI one you've gotta buy the rackless kit and hunt down your own GTI rack (which probably isn't too tough).

 

I have an 84 GTI rack but it's the aluminum body "A2" rack. The A2 rack will not work with this kit. Make sure you get the steel body "A1" style rack.

 

is it just a matter of being able to weld aluminum or are there other characteristics of the aluminum body A2 GTI rack that make it unusable for our purposes?

Thanks!

 

The rack isn't welded so it must be physical dimensions.