M_D_H

What the title says. I dissasembled my '85 nikki carb to do a full, badly needed cleanup. I took extreme care documenting everything and it's location, but somehow managed to still have a part drop out, and I don't know where it goes.

I originally thought it dropped out of the bottom of the main body, but I'm starting to think that isn't right. I blew up expanded diagrams of the carb to try to place it, and have looked all over and I'm still not sure where this darn brass part goes. Thought it might be a weight, but maybe it's a locating pin?

Please help!

Part is a near perfect 4mm x 14mm cylinder with beveled edges.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

If I remember correctly, it's the weight that inserts into a channel leading to the accelerator pump. Theres a threaded cap over it. If you look at the main body with the air horn removed, you will see one lonely screw threaded into the top of the main body above the accelerator pump. It should be the weight that goes in there.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Richer solenoid.

There is a brass screw between the secondary barrels at the top of the main body. Take this screw off and place the weight into the hole. This hole is right above the richer solenoid. The richer solenoid is down between the secondaries at about mid level on the main body.

M_D_H

Thanks for the ideas so far, I'll be trying then out as soon as I get home from work

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It's not the accelerator pump weight. That one is tiny. Yours is large, and goes to the richer solenoid.

Benjamin4456

Just wanted to add that there is no check ball under that weight, so don't be alarmed that one isn't there.

Edit: and just for documentation... Smallest, needle-like weight goes by the AP diaphragm and has a check ball. The short-fat weight goes under the AP nozzle and also has a check ball. And finally the one you posted photos of, which goes under a threaded 'cap' in the triangular notch on top of the main body above the richer solenoid - no check ball.

M_D_H

Oh my god ya'll just saved my *** - get this.

First off, you were right. That was the correct location, thank you. It's just the only weight/check valve that doesn't show up in any of the illustrations.

Second, this being my first carburetor rebuild, I didn't even realize I was missing the other checkballs and weights. I knew the words and that I was supposed to have them, but didn't realize they were missing until just now when I was comparing the pictures and my inventory of parts. Turns out I was right to not clean my work area until I was sure I had everything. The two smaller weights were stuck in the dirt on the towel I was working over, and one of the check ***** had rolled off to the side. I was disparring and cursing about losing the second one when I finally realized the larger check ball is actually still somehow stuck in the main body even after all the washing and cleaning cycles I submitted it to. I can't believe it, I was absolutely certain I had lost them due to my negligence and I'd have to call a friend for a replacement nikki.

Well, I've got no choice but to get this done properly now, the god's have spoken. I've already made a new thicker base gasket out of some gasket material, and everything's all clean (except that one pesky check ball that still refuses to budge) I'm keeping everything stock this time around until I make sure it runs. If it runs, I may be shipping it out to be reborn, or trying a emissions delete and conversion myself.

Benjamin4456

Good to see you got it sorted.

The rebuild kit I purchase from Autozone (GP Sorensen I believe, although there are others like the hygrade kits that are probably just as good) include new check ***** so don't scrap a carb if you that's what stops you. I also don't believe the check ***** are of different sizes, but perhaps on some year...? Jeff would most likely know that.

Depending on your goals and self confidence (or just willingness to try new things), modding the carb yourself is definitely a possibility. My nikki and intake thread has been going for a while now and there's some info in there - albeit a bit buried by this point - and there's plenty of other threads that far surpass mine as well. But that's for another time.

Anyway, hope you get it running and all - a rebuild kit really is a good investment if you haven't picked one up and have the carb apart anyway.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Glad we were able to help get it sorted out! Trust me when I say how amazing this community is here! Also, do not attempt to remove the gaskets on the carburetor base plate. There is an upper and a lower and you will likely destroy the base plate.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Check ***** are all the same size. It would be disastrous if they were different sizes because it could be confusing as to which hole they belong in, and could get truly stuck or bypass fuel making them only semi-functional. I've measured old OEM ***** and new ***** in the kit and they showed the same size on my digital caliper to the level of accuracy it can do. Good enough for me. Carbs aren't rocket science but they're darn close sometimes... Remember the Rotary Rocket magazine? I bet TG does.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

I remember that magazine!! Some great stuff came out of the 80's and the 90's when these cars were newer and those magazines always contained cool stuff!

thirteenbees

Here' one....