lazlong

So I'm rebuilding the nikki on my 84 gsl. Man, that's alot of parts. I'm stumped trying to get the secondary ring of the float bowl vent solenoid. I got the inner part out with the spring (so I could soak the air horn) but the large (25mm) brass ring with two flats on it won't budge.

I wanted to remove it so I could clean the shaft and plastic stopper as well as the hole it buts up to more thoroughly. I managed to turn it maybe 3/16 off center but that's about it.

Does this thing come out? Is it threaded? ACk! is it reverse threaded? I've done my searches, but haven't come up with an answer.

Thanks!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I believe it's non-removable on some years.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

See the 90-degree brass nipple that sticks out just to the left of the secondary ring? That is why you can't get the secondary ring for the FBVS to come out. There is a hole in the secondary ring that the 90-degree nipple terminates in. The secondary ring will only come out if you have removed the 90-degree nipple FIRST. Here's how it's done....

1) Mount the 90-degree brass nipple in your bench vise as tight as you can. Grab the air horn and start twisting and pulling at the same time. The 90-degree fitting should slide out of its hole in the air horn.

2) Take the air horn and mount it in the bench vise again. This time mount the secondary ring inside the jaws of the vise. Again, grab the air horn and start twisting and pulling simultaneously. The secondary ring for the FBVS will slide out of the air horn with some effort. It will be snug, but you should be able to easily remove it this way.

3) Now that both the elbow and the secondary ring are removed you have 2 holes to plug. To close the hole for the secondary ring, go to Autozone and get a freeze plug. I forget what size you need. You'll have to measure the hole and see. I'm thinking maybe 16mm? Gently tap the freeze plug into the gaping hole that is left over by the secondary ring. It probably wouldn't hurt to smear some JB Weld, or silicone sealant around the edge of it after you tap it in. Just to help prevent leaks.

To close up the hole for the 90-degree nipple, I got a nice sharp tap and cut some threads into the hole. I'm thinking that I used a 5/16" tap? Again, you'll need to measure and see what is right. Then use some JB Weld and epoxy a bolt, or a set screw into the hole you just tapped. Make sure you use epoxy on the threads of your bolt so prevent vacuum leaks.

Good luck!
Jamie

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Use a 20mm freeze plug, and then jb weld the **** out of it. Be gentle with the freeze plug though.. when i did mine it actually started ripping the thin wall of air horn on one side, thus leading to more jb.

lazlong

Thanks for the tips Jamie. I double checked the exploded view pictures I have to make sure I didn't miss anything. The pics I have use a different solenoid valve that uses a gasket and screws.

Hopefully I didn't warp the brass elbow too much and can get everything out. I quickly tested and the elbow does rotate relatively easily. I'll have to tackle the whole job a bit later.

My original intention was just to remove for cleaning, then replacing. However, since I'm removing the rats nest anyhow, I may as well just dump this too.

Thanks for the good ideas. I'll post back with my success or failure later.

Cheers
Erron.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Yours sounds like the old style FBVS. Is it a triangular shape that is held in by 3 machine screws?

lazlong

So on the good advice I got here, I clamped the little elbow into my vise and started twisting and pulling...until suddenly WHAM! Someone turned the lights out. My lights to be exact. The piece popped out and I hit myself in the face with the air horn. Nearly put the brass linkage for the choke plate right through my nose. Only went half way. Glad it was clean and shiny before it entered my bloodstream!

Ouch.

Jamie, you were bang on with your first post on how to disassemble. I have the model of carb you first described. It's just that my carb kit came with an exploded view of the older one I guess.

I Got the elbow out and now the big brass ring turns around stiffly, but freely. It's gonna be a real pain getting it out. Hopefully not in a physical sense this time.

Cheers!
Erron

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

There you go! You're halfway there. Now just clamp that big brass thing in your vise. Start twisting and pulling and watch out when it comes loose. It takes some elbow grease to get it loose, but it's really not as bad as you'd think. It comes out fairly easily after removing the 90-degree elbow.

A little side story: The first time I tried to remove the brass bung/secondary ring from my air horn I clamped it down into my bench vise. I wrapped and old t-shirt around my hands and climbed up onto the top of my work bench. I bent over and grabbed onto the air horn, with the tshirt protecting my hands. I proceeded to lift against it with all my power. I pulled and pulled as hard as I possibly could. Unfortunately, it never came out. I didn't know about the 90 degree elbow. I was succesful however, at pulling the plywood off the top of my workbench. I had pulled so hard against the air horn that I pulled all the nails out of the workbench, taking the 3/4" plywood top with it.

Live and learn. Just glad I could pass this tip along to someone else. I didn't come by it easily...

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

Really good stories guys, I love slap stick comedy, video would be killer. I see a new thread starting; How have you hurt yourself(not seriously) working on your 7?

I have the older carb in process of rebuild now, doesn't look like there's enough for a freeze plug to grip on. Sterling mentions putting a penny in there with some epoxy on his web site. I think I'm going that route.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

See, this fits Mazda's definition of "non-removeable."

It means "not meant to be removed for any conceivable maintenance purpose; no serviceable parts inside; Remove only in presence of witnesses and/or a video camera so others can appreciate the results."

lazlong

More a comedy of errors. The last thing anyone expects to hear when they ask what happened to my nose is "I threw a carburetor at my face."

I'll have to start posting some pics. Maybe even one of my nose. Seems like quite a few of the threads in the archives I love so much have the pics missing. (pics of the carb, not my nose)

I'll work up the nerve to get the sleeve out tonight. Spent the rest of yesterday/today just cleaning parts. My nose hurt about as much as my pride right now.

Cheers,
Erron.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

You don't know pain until you get gasoline in your eyes while changing the fuel filter Erron. Or carburetor cleaner. I think the carb cleaner actually hurts worse. I thought I would be blind both times. I try to be more careful now than when I was younger. But I still do dumb things. Thankfully I've got all my appendages, digits, eyes, ears, etc. Sometimes I wonder how.

lazlong

Can't say I ever had gas in the eyes, but if we're comparing pain, I'm married. Does that count?

So I got the brass sleeve out. No problems. Sprayed a little wd-40 in the hole left by the removal of the brass elbow. Gave it a bit of a turn. Sprayed some more. etc, etc. 45 seconds later, she slid right off with hardly a sweat.

It occurs to me, the easiest way to plug the holes is to put the brass sleeve back in with the side hole (for the elbow) pointed the other way and screw the solenoid back in without the rod and stopper. I probably wouldn't even need to plug the hole where the elbow went, as the brass sleeve would be blocking it off.

I'll re-think that before I execute. Right now its time to dis-assemble the main body.

Thanks again for the support.

Cheers
Erron.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

We only laugh because we've been there, sir.

Got my finger between a crankshaft and a connecting rod once, when a helpful friend rammed the piston home with a rubber mallet slightly early.

Improvised gymnastics under a car, with one finger vised inside the engine. Not recommended.

lazlong

Ack! I've been reading the archive thread on how to strip a nikki, as found in the faq. Its missing all the pictures! Jamie, I just realized it was you who started that thread! Is there any chance of getting those pics back online? I'll be re-assembling everything today/tomorrow, and the thread really only shines if we can see what everyone is talking about.

This is the thread I'm referring to: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/

tanstaafl, but it sure would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Erron.
p.s. My nose feels better today.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Here are the pictures. Some of the notes are only if you are doing mechanical secondaries (all the stuff relating to the accelerator pump). Let me know if you have any questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

Jamie

lazlong

Thank you Jamie!

Those pics complete the thread. Everything falls into place. *Very* much appreciated. The only question I have is, did it all work out?

OK one other question. How do you remove the anti-tamper shell for the mixture adjust screw. (will be searching the archives as soon as I hit submit for this post)

I'll be doing mechanical secondaries, just have do read a bit more about it. I'll probably just make some block off plates for the vacuum holes... unless you can swear by the jb weld putty fix.

Again, many thanks for the pics! These forums are truly great.

Cheers
Erron.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Erron,

The factory service manual says to remove the anti tamper shell with a hacksaw blade. I have had good luck using a cutting bit on my dremel in the past. Don't cut all the way thru the shell or you will mar the screw underneath. I cut a slot lengthwise on each side of the shell just enough to weaken it (180 degrees apart). Then I take a pair of pliers and squeeze it. It cracks open just like a nut.

If you have the patience, then I would definitely make blockoff plates instead of using JB Weld putty. I made blockoff plates for my own carb, but have used putty in the past also. The putty works fine, but if you want it to look really slick then make a nice blockoff plate and put a gasket behind it.

And yeah, if you follow the diagrams the carb will work great. Mine idled below 750 rpm if I wanted it to. It had wayyyyy more throttle response than the stock carb that is being choked by all the emissions equipment.

lazlong

Thanks again for those pics Jamie! Huge help!

Not sure if I'll hack off the anti-tamper shell. It'd be nice to have access to everything once it's back on the car, but everything I read says you never need to touch it. Warning bells are going off in my head.

I believe I'll just put the float bowl brass sleeve back in at 90 degrees to where it was. Screw the solenoid back in, and I'm done. I'll be making block off plates for the other bits anyhow, and if I ever need/want to go back to stock, It'll be alot easier. The hard part will be getting the frickin thing back in, and I have to make sure that it will clear the fuel inlet bolt. (it should).

The only thing I think I want to keep is the dashpot. Something to catch the throttle from snapping closed sounds like a good idea. However, I think mine is kinda sticky and was the source of my high idles.

I have the Hygrade carb rebuild kit. It's gonna take me a bit to organize the nice pack of washers the were so kind to pack together.

Once I get that sorted, it's back together. What a fun learning experience. Then its time to pull the engine! yeehaw!

Thanks for all the help, I'll post some pics when she's all back together.

Cheers
Erron.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Don't be afraid to cut of the anti-tamper shell. They say "Don't take it off! OMG! What are you doing?!" just because of all the 1980's emissions propaganda. They didn't want people messing with the air/fuel mixture on the car and then throwing the emissions equipment all out of whack. Chop it off. Then you can adjust the air/fuel to where the car is happiest, not the government.

boyee

iTrader: (3)

hey guys i dont mean to hijack the thread but it is somewhat related because my question has to do with removing parts off the carb.

i was wondering how to remove the fuel inlet bolt with the number 5 on it. i removed the two vertical banjo fuel inlet bolts but i already somewhat stripped this one on the side.

also is there any trick to removing the screws on the air horn. some seem to be on very tight. i already stripped one screw that holds thee altitude compensator doohiky. i guess i need to drill it out now right? i also cannot seem to take out one screw that holds the #2 choke diaphragm. i just sprayed a little PB blaster on all of these bolts/screws and hope they can come off for further cleaning.

thanks!

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Use your dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a big flat slot in the top of those phillips head screws. Then, after you cut a slot in them you can use a giant flat head screw driver and hopefully bust them loose. Works for me 98% of the time.

Jamie

lazlong

I had a few issues with the airhorn screws as well. Most notably one on the secondary choke like yourself. I tried everything...except a torch. The thing is still full of fuel, so don't do that! I was lucky though, the screw that stripped *wasn't* the one holding the airhorn to the mainbody. So once i got the airhorn off, I just drilled from the underside right into the center of the screw. It eventually came loose and I was able to screw it out with no damage to the airhorn (or the threaded hole)

I didn't have any trouble with the fuel bolt. If it's partially stripped, you might try using a socket.

I've almost got mine all back together! I'm stuck trying to replace my needle seats. I don't have a flat head screwdriver big enough to span the gap... I tried a washer (it just bent it) A chisel and just grabbing it with pliers. Are these things tough to get out? I'm going to go buy a proper screwdriver, but it seems like I should of have some success with my alternative methods.

Cheers
Erron.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

If the needle seats have the round holes on the side, sometimes you can stick something in there and wrench it out that way. That is usually my last resort. The needle seats can definitely be stubborn though.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Back edge of a pocket knife blade can work, depending on the slot position relative to the float pivot.