HOW TO: Install PCV for the crankcase to remove condensation (Lung Mustard) on Holley
12-19-06, 10:18 AM
#1
HOW TO: Install PCV for the crankcase to remove condensation (Lung Mustard) on Holley
I know there's a few thread about this and there are different opinions on it but here's mine. Taken mostly from 64mgb, wackyracer also just says to install one of the oil filler cap by just drilling a whole in the center. but from reading some say that you need a vacuum source to help it get out better and thats what made better sence to me so thats why I went along with this way.
What you'll need:
PCV valve from a Mitsubishi (~6$)
2 feet of 5/16" Water hose or Fuel Hose (~0.40$ for the water)
4 Zip Ties (Small ones are sufficient and look cleaner) (1$ for assorted pack from dollar store)
A small piece of silicon hose with about 3/16" inner diameter to 5/16" outer diameter.
First cut the hose in half, then grab the PCV valve and insert each hose in the ends as in Picture 1.
Then from the non threaded part of the PCV valve, attach the hose to the oil filler neck as in picture 2.
Now on the holley carb, from the plate inbetween the float and the carb itself, there's a vaccum nipple on there. You will need to install the small piece of silicon hose over the nipple (I cut mine the lenght of the nipple so that it would make it easier to slip on the other tube over it.)
From there you can now slide the water hose over the holley nipple and attach it there as shown in picture 3.
And you are done. To make thing look a little better I installed mine to run inbetween the Alternater bolt and the front plate (See picture 4) to have it centered. Like this its sittin next to the bolt hole and I could install a bracket, or bendable soft metal tab to hold it in. This can best be seen in picture 1, and 5.
I still have to install a breather on the centerplate nipple under the oil filler neck nipple, I'll be picking that up today for that you'll need either a breather with 1/4"-5/16" hose end or if you're going by metric that would be a 9mm hose.
PS: Don't mind the labeling around the engine bay, Its for further reference for my project.
What you'll need:
PCV valve from a Mitsubishi (~6$)
2 feet of 5/16" Water hose or Fuel Hose (~0.40$ for the water)
4 Zip Ties (Small ones are sufficient and look cleaner) (1$ for assorted pack from dollar store)
A small piece of silicon hose with about 3/16" inner diameter to 5/16" outer diameter.
First cut the hose in half, then grab the PCV valve and insert each hose in the ends as in Picture 1.
Then from the non threaded part of the PCV valve, attach the hose to the oil filler neck as in picture 2.
Now on the holley carb, from the plate inbetween the float and the carb itself, there's a vaccum nipple on there. You will need to install the small piece of silicon hose over the nipple (I cut mine the lenght of the nipple so that it would make it easier to slip on the other tube over it.)
From there you can now slide the water hose over the holley nipple and attach it there as shown in picture 3.
And you are done. To make thing look a little better I installed mine to run inbetween the Alternater bolt and the front plate (See picture 4) to have it centered. Like this its sittin next to the bolt hole and I could install a bracket, or bendable soft metal tab to hold it in. This can best be seen in picture 1, and 5.
I still have to install a breather on the centerplate nipple under the oil filler neck nipple, I'll be picking that up today for that you'll need either a breather with 1/4"-5/16" hose end or if you're going by metric that would be a 9mm hose.
PS: Don't mind the labeling around the engine bay, Its for further reference for my project.
12-19-06, 11:34 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by dj55b
thanks for the tip but what if I get the clear fuel hose would that work?
12-19-06, 12:07 PM
#5
I sometimes call it capuccino. 
My REPU suffered from water poisening last week. I had to pull off the oil filter to work on the heater hose and when I looked inside the filter, I saw little colonies of water globuals clinging to the top. I then inspected the cap and it had a huge amount of water and margerine.
I checked the suction of the PCV system and it was functioning fine. Maybe I lost a coolant seal? It wasn't green so hopefully not. Maybe all the short trips I've been taking lately have taken their toll.
Always let it warm up fully before you shut it off.
My REPU suffered from water poisening last week. I had to pull off the oil filter to work on the heater hose and when I looked inside the filter, I saw little colonies of water globuals clinging to the top. I then inspected the cap and it had a huge amount of water and margerine.I checked the suction of the PCV system and it was functioning fine. Maybe I lost a coolant seal? It wasn't green so hopefully not. Maybe all the short trips I've been taking lately have taken their toll.
Always let it warm up fully before you shut it off.
03-02-10, 03:59 PM
#6
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I know there's a few thread about this and there are different opinions on it but here's mine. Taken mostly from 64mgb, wackyracer also just says to install one of the oil filler cap by just drilling a whole in the center. but from reading some say that you need a vacuum source to help it get out better and thats what made better sence to me so thats why I went along with this way.
What you'll need:
PCV valve from a Mitsubishi (~6$)
2 feet of 5/16" Water hose or Fuel Hose (~0.40$ for the water)
4 Zip Ties (Small ones are sufficient and look cleaner) (1$ for assorted pack from dollar store)
A small piece of silicon hose with about 3/16" inner diameter to 5/16" outer diameter.
First cut the hose in half, then grab the PCV valve and insert each hose in the ends as in Picture 1.
Then from the non threaded part of the PCV valve, attach the hose to the oil filler neck as in picture 2.
Now on the holley carb, from the plate inbetween the float and the carb itself, there's a vaccum nipple on there. You will need to install the small piece of silicon hose over the nipple (I cut mine the lenght of the nipple so that it would make it easier to slip on the other tube over it.)
From there you can now slide the water hose over the holley nipple and attach it there as shown in picture 3.
And you are done. To make thing look a little better I installed mine to run inbetween the Alternater bolt and the front plate (See picture 4) to have it centered. Like this its sittin next to the bolt hole and I could install a bracket, or bendable soft metal tab to hold it in. This can best be seen in picture 1, and 5.
I still have to install a breather on the centerplate nipple under the oil filler neck nipple, I'll be picking that up today for that you'll need either a breather with 1/4"-5/16" hose end or if you're going by metric that would be a 9mm hose.
PS: Don't mind the labeling around the engine bay, Its for further reference for my project.
What you'll need:
PCV valve from a Mitsubishi (~6$)
2 feet of 5/16" Water hose or Fuel Hose (~0.40$ for the water)
4 Zip Ties (Small ones are sufficient and look cleaner) (1$ for assorted pack from dollar store)
A small piece of silicon hose with about 3/16" inner diameter to 5/16" outer diameter.
First cut the hose in half, then grab the PCV valve and insert each hose in the ends as in Picture 1.
Then from the non threaded part of the PCV valve, attach the hose to the oil filler neck as in picture 2.
Now on the holley carb, from the plate inbetween the float and the carb itself, there's a vaccum nipple on there. You will need to install the small piece of silicon hose over the nipple (I cut mine the lenght of the nipple so that it would make it easier to slip on the other tube over it.)
From there you can now slide the water hose over the holley nipple and attach it there as shown in picture 3.
And you are done. To make thing look a little better I installed mine to run inbetween the Alternater bolt and the front plate (See picture 4) to have it centered. Like this its sittin next to the bolt hole and I could install a bracket, or bendable soft metal tab to hold it in. This can best be seen in picture 1, and 5.
I still have to install a breather on the centerplate nipple under the oil filler neck nipple, I'll be picking that up today for that you'll need either a breather with 1/4"-5/16" hose end or if you're going by metric that would be a 9mm hose.
PS: Don't mind the labeling around the engine bay, Its for further reference for my project.
03-02-10, 04:33 PM
#7
Not too bad, but you did a few things wrong. The line that you have run to the carb is the carbs vacuum advance. That needs to be connected to the advance pots on the dizzy. It will only have vaccum under acceleration. You need to run your PCV line to the intake for constant vacuum. Since your running the RB intake, you can tee that line into your brake booster line behind the intake. Second, the line running to the filler neck is wrong. It needs to run to the nipple on the center iron. Then you can put a filter on the nipple sticking out of the filler neck. This way it will vent the engine, not just the filler neck. I always use black fuel line for the PCV. It will last for years.
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03-02-10, 04:46 PM
#8
Here is the PCV valve that I commonly use. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_775424116___
Install the threaded side towards the intake and the "nipple" towards the engine. Then you can use one of these filters on the oil fill tube. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APC-1...Q5fAccessories
Install the threaded side towards the intake and the "nipple" towards the engine. Then you can use one of these filters on the oil fill tube. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APC-1...Q5fAccessories
03-02-10, 10:04 PM
#11
Here is the PCV valve that I commonly use. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_775424116___
Install the threaded side towards the intake and the "nipple" towards the engine. Then you can use one of these filters on the oil fill tube. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APC-1...Q5fAccessories
Install the threaded side towards the intake and the "nipple" towards the engine. Then you can use one of these filters on the oil fill tube. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APC-1...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by Sgt Fox; 03-03-10 at 12:44 AM.
03-03-10, 11:02 AM
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ok so heres how i did mine. I ran the 5/16 hose from the nipple on the housing to the pcv valve (which i realized that i mounted backwards when i double checked the thread) then from the pcv valve i T'd the hose into the vac line for the brake booster.
heres the pics
heres the pics
03-03-10, 06:58 PM
#20
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On the passenger side there's a hose coming off the intake mani that runs to a hard line on the fire wall that goes to the brake booster buy yourself a plastic T for vacuum line and T off of that line. That's what i did. Check out my pics a few posts up.
03-03-10, 09:25 PM
#21
You got it man.
That's the simplest way to do it. The line that you have capped is the vent line for the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. With it capped there is a possibility that the tank can get a vacuum pulled on it when the fuel is really low. The only time that I have seen a problem with this is when you do not have a return line from the carb, like with an aftermarket carb.
That's the simplest way to do it. The line that you have capped is the vent line for the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. With it capped there is a possibility that the tank can get a vacuum pulled on it when the fuel is really low. The only time that I have seen a problem with this is when you do not have a return line from the carb, like with an aftermarket carb.
03-03-10, 10:07 PM
#22
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You got it man.
That's the simplest way to do it. The line that you have capped is the vent line for the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. With it capped there is a possibility that the tank can get a vacuum pulled on it when the fuel is really low. The only time that I have seen a problem with this is when you do not have a return line from the carb, like with an aftermarket carb.
That's the simplest way to do it. The line that you have capped is the vent line for the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. With it capped there is a possibility that the tank can get a vacuum pulled on it when the fuel is really low. The only time that I have seen a problem with this is when you do not have a return line from the carb, like with an aftermarket carb.
03-03-10, 10:08 PM
#23
My understanding is that the PCV should vent away from the oil tube and towards the intake. If you suck on one end, and can suck air through, then that end should go towards the intake. If you suck on the other end and its blocked, that end should be towards the oil tube.
