Just wondering if everyone shifts at 7k..or less...or more.
Tonight I got caught up in a race and reved first to almost 8k and when I shifted into 2nd it just spun the tires like never before.Felt like the rotary came alive.hehe If only I had built motor and rev it that high all the time!

 

No point in going to 8k. A stock port engine's power peak is approx 7k IIRC.

 

Usually I go 5-6k on the streets, any higher than it gets too loud and people think they all want to race me.

 

i shift at 4500 daily driving and shift at 6500-7000 racing.

 

yeah i try to keep it under about 7200, the -se used to see the tach pegged a lot!

 

yea i shift at 7600 or so when *cough*racing*cough* driving, just cause when i shift into 2nd i'm past the powerband ready to shift into 3rd.

 

I hit the rev limiter probably once every other time I drive mine which is set to 8100.

 

My stock port consistently gets quickest drag times shifting at 7700 according to the tach. Well, 7700 on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, and at about 7000-7200 on the 3-4 shift. (I shift 3-4 at the 1000' mark, not looking at the tach) Might be having a fuel issue there, still need to get an O2 sensor hooked up to see what it's doing.

One of these days I'll check the calibration on the tach against a quality aftermarket one (no Sun/Autogage crap) so I know what RPM it *really* is.

 

so how high can you sorta safely rev the stock 12a's?
Cuz I know like the 2nd gen's there redline is 7 but you can safely rev them to 8k.

 

Everybody agrees that anything past 8500 will kill stock iron apex seals. If you have a rev limiter, try setting it to 8400, but realize the engine could make its way past 8500 on trailing.

If you're into doing burnouts at high RPM, I'd recommend installing a switch to turn off trailing ignition. You don't want to pull a peejay.

 

No, pulling a peejay is driving at WOT in 2nd for about 15 seconds, showing your pegged tach off to a co-worker

 

See now drag times are decieving. Our trans ratios suck and are spaced far apart, so in racing its common to rev to 8 or 8500. I do this in my racecar cause of the trans ratio (btw it has carbon apex seals). Your correct, but your turning this into an apples and oranges thing.

 

Drag racing is getting from point A to point B as quickly as possible.

Doesn't that also apply to road racing?

I mean, okay, I know that I will get best acceleration whifting at X RPM in Y gear. I know this because I have quantified it.

Yes our gearing sucks - but that is part of the art of driving: working around your car's limitations. Sure it would be nice to have a super close ratio gearset but then the car either sucks below 35mph or can't really go over 90.

 

I shift at about 3000 on daily driving, gas is 2.11 i cant afford that ****. Racedays i pull it to 8000 thou, have to get the full effect of teh street port

 

wow BigJim, you sjift at low rpms. i dont feels like i have enough power under my foot if im that low

 

what'd peejay do?

 

With a GSL-SE you should always shift at 5k at least once between every trip you take in your car...this assures that your secondary ports don't get carbon locked...

 

I don't know why but my needle likes to bounce when I hit 8K it goes to like 6 and backto 8. I mean the engine si strong nothing wrong with it, but it's weird.

 

well, my car dosn't have a rev limiter, but i usually shift bout 7200

 

i take it up to 7500 every time i drive it at least once.. just to keep it healthy.. but i havent got it to do a burnout yet... it just wont do it... it sucks.. maybe i need to beef it up a little.. i mean jesus i can do a burnout in my intrepid.. and its auto...

 

hmmm. my needle bounces around at idle.its stupid

 

Maybe I didnt explain my self right. What I'm saying is there 2 different issues here.

1 Whats best RPM for the engine regardless of the car, trans etc, power and torque wise, As if we had the perfect trans ratios.

and 2 whats best for accelerating the car regardless of whats optimal for the engine. The point A to point B real world issue.

 

we played around with an fc and a dyno and the fc tach slows down at high rpm. 8000 on the tach was like 9500@ the engine, but 7000 on the tach was about 7000 at the engine. i bet the fb tach do the same thing

 

My SA tach was dead-nuts accurate.

Or at least, with the trailing disconnected, with a 7000rpm rev limiter chip the tach would stop at exactly 7000rpm. With an 8000rpm chip, the tach would read exactly 8000rpm at the limit. With the 8400... well that was a bit beyond the tach needle's range

 

j9fd3s: If that's true, then my engine has hit 9500 a lot I'd like to get an accurate tach to put in so I know what RPM I'm really hitting. But I hate how it would look. Any way to put the guts of a new tach into the stock location? I'd make a stock looking gauge face for it, except it'd be calibrated for the new tach.